
HISTORY RANKS STRUCTURE UNIFORM
Every
parade night, cadets are expected to wear some kind of uniform, and as such, the
care of it becomes an important aspect of life in the cadets. Regular
inspections are undertaken by the Warrant Officer so it is probably best to keep
on their good side by looking after your uniform and generally keeping smart and
tidy
Different
Types of Uniform:
|
Working
Blues 1.
Parade Shoes 2.
Black Socks or 'barely black' tights (for female cadets) 3.
Belt 4.
RAF Grey/Blue Trousers or skirt (for female cadets) 5.
Working Blue Shirt 6.
Jumper (September-May) 7.
Beret 8.
Brassard
|
|
|
Number
1 Uniform (Normally worn by band members and CWO’s) 1.
Parade Shoes 2.
Black Socks or 'barely black' tights (for female cadets) 3.
Belt 4.
RAF Grey/Blue Trousers or skirt (for female cadets) 5.
No 1 Jacket 6.
Cap (peaked cap for female cap) 7. Wedgewood (light) Blue shirt and Black Tie
|
|
|
Wedgwood
Blues 1.
Parade Shoes 2.
Black Socks or 'barely black' tights (for female cadets) 3.
Belt 4.
RAF Grey/Blue Trousers or skirt (for
female cadets) 5.
Wedgwood Blue (light Blue) Shirt 6.
Tie 7.
Jumper in cooler months 8.
Beret 9.
Brassard
|
|
|
DPM
(Night Exercises, Camouflage and Concealment or anything else needing
camouflage) 1.
Combat Boots 2.
DPM (disrupted pattern material) trousers 3.
DPM (combat 95) or
Olive green shirt 4.
OG ribbed jumper (if OG shirt is worn) 5.
Combat jacket 6.
Scrim netting around neck 7.
Beret
|
|
|
OG
(Olive Green) Uniform (Shooting and non-camouflage exercises) 1.
Combat boots – Shiny 2.
OG Trousers 3.
OG Shirt 4. Combat Jacket 5.
Beret
|
|
UNIFORM
CARE
1.
Parade Shoes
To
polish these, first strip them by gently heating in a flame from a candle or
lighter, then use cotton wool or a rag to wipe off the polish as it melts.
Do this until you reach leather. Then
take a small amount of shoe polish – we recommend KIWI Parade Gloss – and
get a small amount of water and some wet cotton wool.
Put a little polish on the cotton wool and rub in a circle motion until
all the polish has all gone into the shoe, and repeat.
After 20-30 minutes, your shoes should come to a high shine.
NB: Good shoes will look like glass.
2.
Trousers (No1,
Standard, & Olive Green)
The
aim is to get sharp creases all the way up the trousers.
The ideal way to do this is to use a trouser press, but as not all of
happen to carry one around with us, we suggest lying the trousers flat on the
ironing board. Then get some brown
paper and lightly wet the side of the trouser where the crease will go.
After this, lay the paper over it, using a hot iron, push down over the
crease. Push down hard – within
reason! – and move the iron over the length of the trousers, repeating for
each leg. The crease should last
for a long time.
3.
Belt
The
belt is relatively easy to polish. First
remove the buckle by carefully rotating the bar on the back, with the teeth
holding it onto the belt. Now take
some metal polish – e.g. – Brasso, using cotton wool rub over the surface.
After a short whole your belt should come to a high shine.
NB: You frequently have to
change your cotton wool as it soon goes black.
4.
Jumper
This
is probably the easiest to maintain. All
that is needed to keep it in good condition is an occasional iron or, if starts
to get “fluffy” then give it a quick shave, not literally with foam and a
razor but with a small pair of scissors. Being
careful not to cut the jumper, remove any sticking out fibres. DO NOT CUT
OFF THREADS - instead pull them through from the inside using a needle or pin.
5.
Shirts (OG,
Wedgwood and Working)
These
are fairly easy to maintain – just ensure that they stay neatly ironed.
There is no need for excessive ironing.
All that is required is that there are no creases where there shouldn’t
be, and that there are no marks or stains on it.
Ensure there is a sharp crease running from the top of the shoulder to
the cuffs, as on a normal shirt.
6.
Beret
First
steam your beret e.g. – over a kettle, being careful not to burn yourselves.
Remove from the steam, and when cold, place it over your head.
Make sure that the beret badge is over your left eye, and pull down the
right side so that the badge sticks out a little. Then try and make the beret as smooth as possible.
7.
Brassard
Iron
to sharp creases, roughly three finger lengthens from either side. Be careful
not to iron over the top of the elastic as the imprint will show through the
front of the brassard, spoiling the look. Ensure there are no other
creases.
8.
Combat Jacket
Iron
until flat. Remember that it’s
DPM, so creases are hard to see. Iron
all pockets flat against the jacket and sew on any missing buttons.
9.
DPM Trousers
Iron
until flat. Remember that it’s
DPM, so creases are hard to see. Iron
all pockets flat and sew on any missing buttons.
10.
Combat Boots
When
on a night-ex, or needing camouflage
Clean
with water to remove any dirt off and put on a thin layer of polish. These boots do not have to be shiny.
Shooting
and non-camouflage boots
Clean
the boots with water, then dry. Take
2 brushes and use one to put the polish on and the other to brush it in. Then use the same methods as with parade shoes to buff the
toecaps