BRUSHES and PAPER

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In general; Try and buy the best paint brushes you can afford, quality brushes give you more control when putting paint on paper. Don't buy brushes that are too small, a large, good quality brush will have a fine point for fine detail but will hold a lot more paint.  For paper, again, buy the best paper you can, your next painting may not be your lifes masterpiece, nor the next, nor the next, but one day you will paint your magnum opus and you dont't want it on a piece of cheap cartridge paper. 

Rounds

Rounds come in sizes from very small 0000 or 4/0 up to and above 24.  The round is a general purpose

paint brush. A number 8.

A range of brush sizes. 

Flats

Good for broad stroke work eg skies.

Riggers

Gives long flowing thin lines eg fences, tree branches, telephone lines.

 Comber brush

Just the job for painting grass.

 Filbert

Use it to paint dry stone walls, or for lifting paint to create highlights.

 Fan

Produce fine wispy strokes.

 Sword liner

For painting long thin plant leaves.

 Domed Mop Brush

Designed to paint large areas quickly, eg skies.

 Sqirrel Mop

Like a round mop but with a fine point.

 Hake

For large washes, with practice the hake can be used to produce

interesting textures eg clouds, foliage.

 Funny Brush

Great for hedges, bushes, tree foliage etc

 

PAPER

There is a wide selection of watercolour paper available with different thicknesses(called weight), surface texture and quality. What type you use is based on personal preference arrived at through experience. Always try and buy the best you can, cheaper paper just dosen't wash!  Thinner paper (and cheaper) e.g. 90lb/190gsm and less, will need to be stretched to prevent  cockling. Stretching paper is just faff, boring, too much of a to-do, I'd rather spend my time painting! Spiral pads of 140lb/300gsm are convenient to use and will take a lot of wash before cocking a bit.  Go for 'Not' water colour paper as this has a semi-rough surface good for different painting techniques.

 

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