New Delhi [Map]---------June 13 | 14 | 15 |---------Next
From Brighton to New Delhi-----------------New Delhi is the capital of India and Muriel's place of arrival.
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13 June 2008------Back
13 June 2008-----12:18 PM-----------------I am in India!
So happy! I already have a beautiful professional bambou flute in F with beautiful orange cotton threads at each end. Beautiful sound. Perfect size. I already played for four men in the shop! It is the monsoon in Delhi. Hot and humid. I love it. It is raining and it is delicious. The travel was excellent. I slept. When I woke up, it was all blue. I had an old taxi and arrived half an hour later in my friends' house. They live in central New Dehlhi. India feels like home. Different and so familiar. I love the heat, the smiles and the rain. I arrived at B62 Gulmohar Park at 1130. Beautiful house surrounded by trees.
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I was warmly welcome by the Egyptian fiancee of Pieter whom I haven't seen yet. Sherine asked her driver to help me in Delhi and Ramish took me to the beautiful and traditional shops of India where I bought beautiful Indian Salmar Kumis and Dapatha (long scarf wore in the special Indian way). Indian ladies helped me to choose and I will take photos because it is so so pretty. Red pink tunic and brown gold large trousers and scarf, orange flowery long tunic with golden borders with white baggy trousers and white scarf, white tunic.... The splendour of materials and colours. I also bought 2 yoga outfits, white and orange and then I bought golden shoes. I felt like a princess. It seemed that everything was planned for me. After my purchases in Fabindia, the driver took me to a music shop where I found the most melodious flute perfect for my lips and fingers! I could not dream more perfect welcome in India. I am now back in Gulmohar Park central Delhi, discussing with Sherine..... of buying a sari, taking the train to Agra and then visiting Varanasi. I do not think I will stay long in Delhi. The Ganges is more appealing! I am now going to update the blog and then go for a small walk on my own..... although I loved the one with the Indian chauffeur and all what he told me about his daughters and how he will choose a husband for both of them now they have finished university. Another world. Love is considered as a serious business for a whole life! The chauffeur had the interest of his daughters at heart and was willing to consider their opinion. Castes were of no interest for him, only heart and head. A lovely man who was very patient with all my shopping and flute haunting!
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13 June 2008-----1:15 PM-----------------Vendredi 13 Juin! Jour d'arrivee a New Delhi: les Dieux sont propices!
Namaste! Me voici enfin en Inde! J'ai l'impression d'etre chez moi! Chaleur delicieuse et fraicheur de mousson! Apres avoir ete galamment et gentiment accompagnee jusqu'a Heathrow par mon ami Ted, les 7 heures de vol furent un avant gout de l'Inde. J'etais pratiquement la seule passagere europeenne a bord. Cuisine vegetarienne indienne et bollywood sur nos ecrans audivisuels individuels. Eclairages psychadeliques au decollage et a l'aerissage. Une nuit de reve et un reve dans un grand ciel bleu rempli de tendresse. Prepaid taxi a l'aeroport et traffic bruyant et anime jusqu'au centre ville ou sejournent mes amis. Les vaches sacrees se meuvent lentement au milieu de routes encombrees. Les tuctucs verts et jaunes se hatent lentement, les bicyclettes sont grandes et poussiereuses, les pousse pousses tirent toutes sortes de denrees etranges.
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Un pauvre velo supporte 3 ou 4 lourds bidons de gaz. Les voitures se doublent et zigzaguent. Concert de klaxons aux tonalites les plus etranges et les plus folles.
On klaxonne ici pour le plaisir. On montre son existence autant qu'il est possible. Les voitures se frolent et c'est etonnant de ne pas voir d'accidents.
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Les rues sont poussiereuses et les magasins petits aux enseignes vieillottes. Dodelinement des nuques. Enfin mon taxi trouve apres bien des erreurs Gulmohar park. Belle maison et arbres luxuriants. Un gros gros insecte court dans l'escalier. Tout va bien car il a l'air inoffensif. Je suis accueillie par la fiancee egyptienne de Pieter. Sherine vient d'emmenager et s'occupe de la maison aux meubles lourds et orientaux. Je pars avec le chauffeur de la maison qui m'emmene dans les meilleures boutiques de vetements indiens traditionnels. Les clientes et les serveuses indiennes s'empressent autour de moi et me conseillent. Me voila vite equipee de 3 magnifiques kalmar savir, ces longues tuniques, pantalons bouffants et etoles flottantes sur les epaules. Je me transforme vite sous les etoffes et la splendeur des couleurs. De l'orange, du rose et du blanc. Nous continuons les courses et j'achete des sandales dorees. Mon chauffeur connait les magasins de musique et me conduit jusqu'aux plus belles flutes de bambou! Je choisis une flute en fa parfaite pour mes levres et mes doigts. Simple mais professionnelle. Decorations de fils oranges. Son melodieux et chaud. Deux heures apres mon arrivee a Delhi, je charme 5 hommes dans un magasin de musique de Delhi! Pouvais-je souhaiter un meilleur accueil en Inde?!
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Poor buildings |
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13 June 2008-----1:59 PM-----------------Such a wonderful welcome in India!
Namaste dear friends!
That's it! I am in India and it really feels like home. Hot but not too hot. Some rain this afternoon to refresh the atmosphere but I have been told that the monsoon has not yet arrived and that those 2 last summer months were exceptionally cool. My plane did a good job and I arrived safely in New Delhi at 10 am this morning after a lovely night spent sleeping and dreaming. A good Friday 13 indeed! The crew and the passengers were all Indians except me. Bollywood films and spicy vegetarian food put me in the mood even before being in New Delhi. I awoke in an ocean of blue and landed to find a prepaid taxi driving me to central Delhi where live Marcel's friends who welcomed me very warmly and generously. I went to do some shopping with their driver and bought some beautiful Indian traditional clothes, golden sandals and a bamboo flute, which plays the most melodious music! I am now totally ready for the next 3 months, all in pink and white with a bamboo flute in F in my bag. I will follow the steps of Krishna and will play my flute wherever I can! I also want to buy a rug for my yoga and will go to visit Jaipur, Agra and Varanasi before meditating in the caves of Bodh Gaya. I feel so happy that I do not feel any tiredness in spite of the lack of sleep of these last weeks of studies and preparations for this trip.... Going now to meet my hosts now, Pieter and Sherine! A bientot!
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14 June 2008------Back
14 June 2008-----6:24 AM-----------------deuxieme journee a new Delhi
Bonjour. Enfin une grande nuit de sommeil sans reve plus profond que l'ocean que je viens de traverser. Je vis la douce vie des expats. Cet appartement est si agreable. Les meubles sont riches et orientaux et sans doute collectionnes par Pieter au long de ses voyages a travers le monde.
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Cette vie luxueuse ne va pas durer et j'en profite car tres vite j'espere vite partir explorer le rajasthan. Je dormirai la nuit dans les trains et visiter le jour. Je veux aujourd'hui visiter le vieux Delhi et voir ses couleurs. J'adore comment les indiens dodelinent leurs tetes. Cela veut tout dire et rien dire. Ce petit balancement est un geste de tendresse et de douceur ou le oui et le non s'estompent pour une infinite de possibilites totalement indefinies.... Hier dans la soiree organisee par Pieter j'ai rencontrer un organisateur de concerts qui m'a invitee a joindre un evenment mardi prochain et je regrette un peu de ne pas avoir ma flute en argent. Je pourrai toujours chanter! Je suis curieuse d'ecouter leur jazz fusion et de rencontrer des musiciens. Je bois beaucoup d'eau ici. De la fenetre de ce bureau, je vois des arbres d'un grand vert avec de belles fleurs rouges. Les oiseaux pepient a tue tete et les indiens a velo poussent d'etranges sons entre la psalmodie, l'incantation et le chant. Je me demande s'ils cherchent simplement a signaler leur presence ou vendent quelque chose. En tout cas c'est agreable et beaucoup plus agreable que le son des voitures. Ici la rue est calme et a l'ecart du vacarme de New Delhi. Il y a 1000 nouvelles voitures de plus visitant New Delhi chaque jour. Un metro prevu pour 2010 est en construction. La ville est tres chere et les gens simpes ont du mal a acheter dans cette capitale. La meme rengaine se decline dans toutes les capitales du monde. La chanson va vite change rlorsque je vais me ballader dans toute l'Inde! Je vais maintenant regarder les horaires de train et d'avion pour organiser mon tour du rajasthan et me diriger vers le Ganges et Varanasi. Je vous envoie un peu de la douceur et de la chaleur de New Dehli qui vous entrent par tous les pores de la peau! Oms and baisers xxxx Mu
14 June 2008-----6:53 AM-----------------Second day in Delhi!
Wonderful night in a large bed! Awoke with the birds and the strange songs of Indian men on their bikes. My friends are still asleep after watching late the European coupe football. I tried to stay awake but the match began at midnight and went to bed. I still do not know if France or Holland won but it certainly did not prevent me from sleeping like an angel in a country which looks like paradise to me. Waiting for Sherine to wake up, I will prepare my next moves to Rajasthan and will try to travel by night and sleep in the trains. I have been told that there is a plane from New Delhi to Varanasi. I wonder if I will be able to leave this country in 3 months as I already feel far too much at home. Perhaps my PGCE could be useful in India.... Who knows? My French and my classical musical training too could interest Indian education.... Life provides such an infinity of possibilities and only being here for one day gives me ideas of which other ways I could be living. Hopefully in this present life and not in another one! Yesterday evening with Pieter, I met an event coordinator who knew the Bihar school of yoga, Satyananda and the local jazz musicians. He was so pleased that I was going to meet Satyananda. It is nice to see the respect that Indians have for this great yogiand his school. Yoga and music go hand in hand. I knew it from the start! Sherine just awoke and I am going to have breakfast with my friends. Holland won 4 0. Poor France! Speak to you soon. A forest of flamboyant oms xxx Mu
14 June 2008-----6:01 PM-----------------Chez Pieter
5 heures dans un taxi qui m'arretait ou je le souhaitais et m'attendais. 550 roupies. Ma premiere visite fut pour Gandhi au Raj Ghat. L'endroit ou il fut incinere. Un beau jardin. Une dalle de marbre, fleurs et flamme.
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Je me suis recueillie emue par le saint homme dont je sentais la presence. Je me suis ensuite rendue au musee Gandhi rempli de photos, de souvenirs, de vetements, de roues a filer le cotton.
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J'ai vu le triste boulet qui a termine la vie du Mahatma. Apres quoi je suis allee a la grande mosque Jama Masjid. J'ai prie pour tous mes amis, pour Mrs Hardy, ma famille, mes proches, les araignees, les moustiques, les indiens, la terre entiere, les martiens et l'univers. 15 minutes en posture de feuille pliee. Au sortir de ma profonde meditation, 5 petites filles musulmanes m'ont entouree, rieuse et me demandant mon nom. Premiere lecon d'anglais avec des enfants anglais! Pieter vient de faire un pizza. Nous allons bientot diner. J'ai acheter deux bouteilles de vin indien!!! Du rouge et du blanc. Des cepages francais. Curieuse de les gouter. Le soleil indien doit rendre ces vins bien forts.... Je dois diner! Oms xxx Mu
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15 June 2008------Back
15 June 2008-----5:04 AM--------------Delhi - My first day in the old city
Namaste dear friends!
My first day in the old city of Delhi was amazing, full of colours, sounds, especially car horns, and strong smells of food and perfume!
I booked a taxi for 5 hours (450 rupees) and a beautiful young Indian man called Sumil drove me everywhere. He was all mine for the whole day! I am indeed a very lucky girl! Sumil managed to understand my English although his English was very basic.
In half an hour I was on Gandhi's Raj Ghat at the south of the old Red Fort. It is a simple marble square where Gandhi was cremated in 1948. The square is in a beautiful garden with trees and flowers where people walk bare feet.
On the marble, there are petals of flowers and a flame honouring the memory of the Mahatma. I was so moved to be there and to think of him and his last physical appearance on earth. I was surrounded by Indians only. No tourists were there as it is not the season for them. I am very pleased about this. I am also fine about the heat. I accept sweating abunduntly and drinking lots of water. Choosing to pay a visit to Gandhi's museum as part of my introduction to India made me especially happy.
The museum was an emotional experience. Many photos of Gandhi and his wife Kasturba, Nehru, the African struggle with the Satyagraha, his campaign of non violence, his search for truth and God, the fight for Indian independence, the struggle in Champaran, Tagore letters etc . The cotton spinning wheels of Gandhi were all there. I saw the bullet which took Gandhi's life and the stained clothes covered with blood....too sad but I felt extraordinarily calm after this experience. I chose not to visit Delhi's famous 17th century Red Fort, but instead went to see the largest mosque in India called Jama Masjid. I wanted to keep this afternoon a spiritual experience. I will visit the Red Ford another time.... when I pay another visit to India!
Arriving in the old town was a pretty amazing experience. Cars, rikshaws, tuctucs, bicycles and buses all compete for space and the traffic is quite mad and pretty dangerous.
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I have been told that a lot of people die on the road each year in India. Not surprising at all. Don't worry. I shall be cautious and will avoid buses as far as possible! I was amazed to see the huge loads which rikshaws and bicyles carry. Like busy ants carrying their lives. Hundred of eggs, ladders, gas bottles, boxes on top of each other piled up to the sky, people, many people, young and old, men and women....
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In the street, you can find live chickens near dead ones, which have been sacrificed . An Indian burns some incense in front of a freshly killed fish. The fisherman shakes a fan near the fish in a hopeless attempt to refresh them or perhaps resuscitate them. Near the fish stall, a barber is shaving an elderly Muslim gentleman facing the Mosque.
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Horns all the time. Noise and horns. Cries. Shouting voices. Long horns, short ones, angry ones, happy ones with their high and low pitches. The experience is overwhelming and daunting. On top of the extreme noise of cars and horns, you must add the strong smells of the market with meat and fish, grilled nuts. I resisted the temptation of fruit salads as I know about Delhi belly. I safely bought a bottle of water on the way.
Old Delhi is a complete contrast with New Delhi where I am staying with Pieter and Sherine. A feeling of going back in time. The streets are narrow and the shops very antique and primitive. It makes you think of The Canterbury Tales and The Middle Ages. In spite of my Indian clothes and my white and orange salvar kamis and my white scarf, Indians quickly spotted me and offered me tuctucs. I managed to make my own way to the mosque while Sumil waited for me near the fish stall.
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200 rupees to visit the mosque because I had a camera.... Not fair. Indians are sharp with money and I have to learn to say NO. I walked inside the mosque, admiring the view of Delhi and decided to pray joining a group of Muslims, mainly men who lay prostrate in the mosque.
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It was good to pray and meditate after the hectic experience in the busy street market. Unexpected calm in old Delhi. Good thoughts and prayers for all of you dear friends. I also prayed for the poor animals, especially the fish and chicken in the market.
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After this soothing experience in Gandhi's Raj Ghat and my first prayer in a mosque, five little Indian girls came to play around me. They recognised I was a foreigner and wanted to show they could ask for my name and give theirs in English. I had the feeling that I was giving my first English lesson in India. They were very cheeky monkeys and so lovely. I loved this nice feeling of speaking and playing with the kids. Pure joy and openness. After I left the mosque, I was terribly hot and sweaty. Sumil was waiting for me under a tree and we headed back home. It is very handy to have a man serving you and waiting for you with a smile. I might become very difficult (more difficult, should I say) with men when I come back to Europe, if of course I come back! I bought some wine for my friends and discovered that India also has its own wine! I haven't tasted it yet and wonder if the sun is not too hot here for wine....
It was lovely to take a shower and rest with my friends in the calm of the flat after this busy day. Pieter and Sherine introduced me to the series "The Sopranos", sombre and funny mafia stories in New Jersey America. An interesting contrast with India in just one day! I am now carefully planning my next moves. These first days with my friends have been very sheltered. I look at my back bag and I know my adventure is just beginning. I will leave tomorrow for Agra and the Taj Mahal. On my own, like a big girl. I will buy a mobile as it may be safer to be able to 'call' and 'be called' in the event of emergencies. My visit to Rajasthan should be fun! I cannot wait to see the Taj and most of all Varanasi and the Ganges! After this hectic old city of Delhi, I am longing to discover some little Indian villages offering a simple rural life far from cars and civilization. My life in ashrams will indeed be very very very different. I want to see it all to understand India with all its amazing contrasts.
Sherine advised me to wait until I am in Chennai before buying a sari.... I shall be wise and will wait if I can! I'm going to wash my salvar kamis now.... It seems that washing will be an important part of this journey! It is now Sunday. It has been pouring with rain all the morning and my friends are sleeping.... Might go to town to buy some more Salvar Kamis as I need to change clothes every day. Loads of love to all of you. xxx Muriel
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Indian bicycles |
No chain and look at the way they stand on their own |
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15 June 2008-----4:41 PM-----------------Troisieme journee a Delhi
Je reviens de Fabindia ou je viens d'acheter de nouveaux salvar kamis in white cotton. I look more indian than the Indians who like to dress in the European fashion, tight jeans and sexy teashirt. So boring. Quelques boutiques offrent des compromis interessants. Etoffes orientales et coupe un peu europeenne avec un zest d'Inde. La parisienne en moi est totalement eveillee avant de se plonger bientot dans les profondeurs de la meditation transcendentale et les postures de yoga ou ces frivolites et ces modes importent bien peu. Mais tu me connais: j'aime profiter de la musique tout en etant detachee quand il le faut!
J'ai pris un nouveau taxi, air conditionne aujourd'hui, 600 roupies et un tres bel Indien dont le nom est Sonu. Joli mais frele comme beaucoup d'Indiens. Tu n'as donc rien a craindre pour le moment! Nous avons parle autant qu'il etait possible car son anglais etait tres limite. Il va se marier dans un mois. Mariage arrange. Il est heureux et sa fiance est charmante. Il travaille depuis 8 ans a Delhi et deteste sa vie ici car ce qu'il aime c'est gravir l'Everest!!! Enfin j'ai un nouveau sari, en soie, tout rose, d'un rose tendre legerement saumone avec des motifs legerement mordores. Bref la veritable vie en rose. Un grand bonheur et un ocean de tendresse autour de moi. Il me faut le petit bolero dore pour le porter et des que je le trouverai, je prendrai une photo pour te montrer comme je suis belle en Indienne. Ma vendeuse etait merveilleuse. Son nom est Payal. Elle est musicienne et joue des tablas. Nous avons echange nos adresses. Dommage que je parte demain... Nous avons echange nos adresses email et nous resterons en contact. Fabindia est un magasin traditionnelle et j'aime les etoffes naturelles en soie et en cotton.
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Paris Café |
Fabindia where I bought my Salvar Kamis and my pink saree |
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J'oubliais de te dire que j'ai commence mes courses par l'achat d'un portable que j'aurai demain matin a 10 heures. Je pourrais telephoner en Inde, etre appelee de l'inde et de l'Europe. Je ne pourrai pas appeler l'Europe mais pourrai recevoir des appels de l'Europe. Ces appels couteront a ceux qui m'appeleront et a moi aussi 1 ou 2 roupies par minutes. Je t'enverrai un text message sur ton telephone chez toi et j'espere que tu recevras le message sinon je t'enverrai mes coordonnees d'Agra ou je vais aller demain. Je t'enverrai aussi un link d'Alain sur les appels en Inde.
Pieter est parti a Poona pour son boulot et je suis seule avec Sherine. Nous avons joue a Dicewords en debut d'apres midi et elle a beaucoup aime. Nous jouerons au Backgammon ce soir apres notre diner entre filles! D'ailleurs je devrais aller la retrouver car je me sens coupable d'etre sur ce pc et je dois faire la cuisine. Je t'enverrai quelques photos ce soir. Je lirai aussi les documents que tu m'as envoyes sur ma camera.
Bon je vais retrouver Sherine. Baisers de jasmin xxxx Mu
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Gandhi's written note |
Sculpture of the salt marshes |
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Gandhi's bed |
Muriel in front of the Gandhi Museum |
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Indian Gate |
Pouring rain |
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15 June 2008-----7:40 PM----------------------Sunday evening
Good night! After a shopping afternoon where I bought a new salvar kamis and a pinky silk sari, some washing liquid powder and shampoo, I feel I can go and visit the Rajasthan. I will go and buy a mobile tomorrow morning to call in case of emergency or to be called and then I will take the train to Agra to watch the legendary Taj Mahal. In two or three days I will be in Jaipur. At the end of the week I should fly to Varanasi and discover the charm of the holy city of India along the Ganges. I hope to be able to give some news along this trip and will probably find some internet cafes on my way to Bihar and my meditative experience. Much love and sweet dreams xxx M.
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