Tiruchirappalli = Trichy [City Map]---------Next
Aug 2008----.----27 | 28 | 29----.----Sep 2008----.----1
27 August 2008------Back
27 August 2008-----2:31 AM--------------Vicky is leaving for Calcutta...
A bit sad and bluesy today as my friend Vicky has to leave for Calcutta for business purposes..... I decided to take a bus for Trichy and its temples today in order to reach Kanyakumari as soon as possible. Although I love sharing while travelling, it can be also very good to travel alone and meet all sorts of people. A last walk on Pondicherry seafront and we will go.... Speak to you soon when I discover more about South India! Love xxx M
Tiruchirapalli, situated on the banks of the Cauvery River, also known as Tiruchi or Trichy (formerly pronounced as Trichinopoly under British rule) is Tamil Nadu's fourth largest city (after Chennai, Coimbatore and Madurai). It has a population of 10,61,915.
27 August 2008-----3:38 PM--------------Blues at Trichy
Back on the roads.... on my own.... A bit bluesy.... I need to get used again to my own company after having spent 3 weeks with Marie and many yoga mates and this last week with Vicky. I am back with Gandhi and his commentaries on the Bhagavad Gita....
Vicky is now in Chennai and soon back in Kolkata for his work while I am getting closer and closer to the extreme South of India and Kanyakumari (Cap Camorin). 6 hours of bus. A good bus but not a private one. 58 rupees. Buses in India are pretty safe and cheap and offer a good way to visit the country. 6 hours of palm trees and little huts. 6 hours of hot weather and a little break with samosas and coconut drink.
Near me, women wearing jasmine flowers in their hair were perfuming the bus. They were smiling to me and it is a real blessing especially when you travel alone. These little things are really important and change your whole day. What a happy contrast with the North of India!
At 4 pm, I arrived in Trichy also calld Tiruchirapalli and realised it was quite a big, busy, noisy and polluted city like a lot of Indian cities. I finally found a single room after visiting several hotels. Most of them were fully booked because today and tomorrow are "wedding days". More than 500 weddings are celebrated in those 2 auspicious days (astrological beliefs!) and I am lucky to have a roof! I will take the opportunity of watching the wedding ceremonies and dresses tomorrow morning at 9am at the hotel.... before visiting the famous Hinduist temples of Trichy.
I will leave Trichy for Tanjore / Thanjavur on Friday morning. I will take another bus. Only 1h30 from Trichy. Other interesting temples to visit. On Saturday I will go to Kanyakumari. I am really longing fto swim in the Arabic sea! 3 months of travelling in the monsoon time deserve some happy and cooling ending! Kerala is coming soon and by the middle of next week I should be bathing in a wonderful sea under coconut trees....
Will tell you more about the Tamil architecture and weddings tormorow. Love to all of you xxx M
28 August 2008------Back
28 August 2008-----12:01 PM--------------Traditional Indian wedding at Trichy
Nice night in my little hotel room. There was a breeze and it was really cool after a hot day. After some yoga this morning, I went downstairs. The priest who was waiting for the bridegroom invited me in the temple located in front of the hotel and put a bindi on my forehead as well as some ash. The bridegroom arrived with a turban and a simple cloth of cotton around his waist. He was wearing many necklaces of flowers and jewels too. The women were very nicely dressed and one just near me caught my eyes. A beautiful young lady in a red, orange and gold sari. Wonderful golden necklaces of very fine work, earings made of gold, small pearls and diamands, jasmine in the hair.... We began to talk and she invited me very graciously to the wedding ceremony. It was only the beginning and the blessing of the bridegroom but the marriage in itself was celebrated afterwards in a large room in the hotel.
Vigi, that's the name of the fine lady I just described, took me under her protection and explained for me the whole ceremony which lasted more than 2 hours. Bride and bridegroom receive many blessings from parents. The bride was just stunning first in a red and golden sari with so many ornaments in the hair and incredible jewelry, hands and feet painted with henne. The bridegroom gave a special necklace to his future wife and they also exchanged toes rings. The wife will keep them forever as well as the red point in the hair to show she is married whereas the man only wears his ring for 3 days! It was an arranged marriage and the future husband and wife only saw each other once before the ceremony. Selection of the future wife is done through relationships and photos.... same cast indeed.... Vigi, only aged 24, explained to me that she chose her own husband and fasted 2 weeks to get the agreement of her family. She told me that a lot of arranged marriages do not work and end up in disasters and affairs.... There was a funny point in the ceremony: a red and golden cloth was brought up and a babe puppet put in it as a symbol of their future life, even water to clean the toy.... The bride then changed clothes again and appeared in another somptuous blue sari.... Photos were taken from everywhere. Most of the family was sitting in chairs and watching the ceremony happening on stage. The ceremony ended with the presents given by the whole family.
Vigi insisted that I shared their meal and I was really happy by such an hospitality. It was very nice because I needed some company and it was a very safe environment. I went out and bought some jasmin and put my dress up before joining the whole family. Simple meal in a banana leaf.
Vegetarian food. I ate with my fingers as well as I could. I always find it a bit tricky! No alcohol. The Indian tradition doesn't allow the use of alcohol. Water. Some tobacco was given and it was explained to me that it helped the digestion!
I was sad not to be able to go to my cousin Carole's wedding in Katmandu but this wedding gave me an idea of what was my cousin's wedding although I think that alcohol was not prohibited.
The uncle of the bride wanted to marry me to his son who was only 23 and I wonder if he was blind or if India makes me look even younger?!
At 2 pm it was far too hot to go out and visit temples.... I will wait 5 pm when the temperature is cooling down and will take bus number 1 and visit the Rock Fort Temple!
29 August 2008------Back
29 August 2008-----6:03 AM--------------Praying Vishnu at Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple!
I am slowly getting used to my own company but still miss so much my friends and feel like a fish out of water.... I improvised flute yesterday night in my little hotel room and found some lovely melodies which made me forget for a while the temporary loss of my dear friends Marie and Vicky. It is so weird that I must practise silence now that I have left the ashram.... The world is upside down! I meditate and practise Vipassana, I read my Satyananda journal, I practise asanas, all kind of things I did not have time to do in Munger Ashram!
"Les voies de Dieu sont impenetrables!" - God's plans are very mysterious!
Some lovely calls from Vicky and Ted made me feel very happy and I slept like an angel just to get up at 6 am and catch an early bus to the biggest temples of the town. Yesterday in the Rock Fort Temple, Ganesh was the president of Paradise but today in the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Vishnu had the main part in the holy drama!
Bananas and grapes gave me energy and bus 1 took me to the temple. In fact it is a succession of temples. There were the biggest and tallest Tamil temples I have seen so far. Monsters and Deities protect the temples. The temples ressemble huge rectangular cakes rising to the sky.
Thousands of Gods and Goddesses dance on them, hips are always slightly bent and the statues are blue, pink, red, brown.... It is all very animated and colourful like Tamil food and perfume. Very old and heavy columns support the temple buildings. Tamils eat, drink in the shade, some beg..... On the walls, paintings of mandalas with their geometric forms.
Colours speak heavily to the mind and take your senses away to awake your soul. People pray. On their forehead a triangle made of a line of red between two lines of white. Some colours on your forehead cool down your body temperatures, the red bindi awakes your third eye.... Beggars are after me but not as badly as in Varanasi. I give what I can. It is like "La Cour des Miracles". Poverty, prayers, all casts are reunited in the temple. Vishnu appears in dark blue, the colour of rain-clouds and is often depicted in a reclining and lying position whereas Krishna is traditionally painted in blue, the colour of love. Vishnu is a top top God! In Hinduism, the cosmic functions of creation, maintenance and destruction are respectively represented by Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The great and holy trinity!
While walking in the temple, I imagine the medieval cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris and life was certainly similar to what I see. Religion and life were interwined, walls were covered with paintings, the Gods were the protectors in a dangerous and unpredictable life.... I wanted to come inside the praying temple but its access was reserved to Hindus and my white Salvar and my Jasmine flowers made no difference to the rule.
Writing this blog in an animated area of Trichy, just near my hotel, is rather relaxing. A big computer place with so many Indians using the net. Tamils seem very busy all around. Horns are loud. I can watch the traffic and it is amazing that there aren't no more accidents. Crossing the road is always a delicate entreprise. Chaos is second nature to India. I am getting used to it. It has its own charm. I am even getting used to the terrible state of most buildings. Paint quality is poor and buildings look shabby. The same with the advertising on walls.... Litters everywhere .... but also all the flowers sold at each street corner and the fruit shops with their grapes, bananas, apples and other exotic fruits. I tried some of them and had all kind of surprises... from the bitter to the softest tastes!
There are all kinds of small businesses in the street, shoe polishers trying to find some shade, fresh fruit juice people (pineapple juice is a wonder and a direct access to Paradise!). In the bus station, there is a man with a scale.... Yes yes for few rupees he will give you your weight. Mind you: he seems a bit blind.... a funny thing because most Indian ladies are fat and that's not surprising because food can be heavy and they love sweets.
29 August 2008-----6:27 AM--------------Leaving for Tanjore!
Today I will go to Tanjore and stay there for the night. Other beautiful temples to visit. But first I will go to my favorite restaurant and eat some paneer (cheese dish) or dhal and nan. Yesterday I tried another Tamil speciality, the dosai, a kind of large tasty and fine pancake with different spicy sauce. I drank a Bansam, a delicious mix of coconut and milk, a bit sweet but very energetic. South Indian food is wonderful and I really indulge! A good change from the ashram diet!
I want to move fast and reach the sea and Kanyakumari as soon as possible. When I am near the sea, I feel so good.... On Kerala beaches, I will meet people and I will swim swim swim which I love so much! I hope you are all well and send you all my love from Trichy! Oms xxx Mumuji
Map of Trichy------Back
01 September 2008 at 11:33 AM------Back
01 September 2008-----9:19 AM--------------Indians buses and Bollywood.....
I arrived at Tanjore on Friday 29th August. Tanjore is not far from Trichy and the government bus only takes 1h30. Local atmosphere in the bus with television and their usual Bollywood films. Gosh, Indians love dance and music! The Bollywood stories and their psychology are pretty poor. Sweet love stories far from the harsh reality of India, somptuous palaces which make all Indians dream. Movements, choreography, colours, fabulous clothes and jewels, beautiful girls and men.... Happiness of the senses and easy distraction from the misery of India.
These films stimulate the senses and love and offer a deep contrast with the very puritan India. All Indian women are covered from head to feet, either in saris or salvar kumis. No short hair. Only long black plates and jasmine in their hair. Many golden jewels. But I have not seen a single Indian lady in jeans or a dress. Most of the active women wear salvar kumis with the dupata or scarf even when it is extremely hot. These long blouses and baggy trousers hide pretty well the lovely feminine shapes and are certainly not sexy! I do wear them too to avoid problems with Indian men. After 3 months here, I really fancy other types of clothes. These salvar kumis and saris certainly reveal a lot about Indian customs and sexual relationships. Perhaps in a non-educated world, it is safer not to attract men who do not control their impulses so well.
There is very very high unemployement in India even amongst graduates and post graduates. The lack of activity can lead to all kinds of excesses and vices: alcohol, brothels, gambling, smoking, corruption..... So kalvar kumis are a safe solution for my travels.
Both the porn industry and prostitution have a huge market in India because of arranged marriages and strict rules on relationships. On top of that, Indian men who see white porn actresses in porn films could be confused and get the wrong idea when they see westerners. As a woman travelling on my own, I have to take extra precautions and make sure I am in a safe hotel at night.
01 September 2008-----9:39 AM--------------Thanjavur Temple and elephant!
The Valli hotel in Tanjore was very safe! The staff smiled cheerfully and I decide to visit the Brihadishware temple and fort immediately. Still feeling alone after the departure of Marie and Vicky, but action and movement have made me feel better. I took a local buses and had the joy of drinking my first coconut and then a women cut a whole pineapple! This is the best way to eat fruits because Indian fruit juices are mixed with water and sugar and are far too sweet.
Thanjavur was the ancient capital of the Chola kings between AD 850 and 1270. The Thanjavur temple is known as the "Big Temple". Having heard that Madurai Menarkee temple is being renovated, I wanted to see Tanjore and appreciate the Tamil style. I was certainly not disappointed. The temple is just stunning. With the sunset, the sandstone towers took on a magical colour... An elephant with it forehead covered with stars was standing in front of the temple and I felt like a little girl observing it playing with its trunks and kids. Kids come and give a coin which the elephant takes with its trunk.
No color on the statues covering the towers.... inside the temple thousands of shiva lingam which would have pleased so much my friend Mary. Huge pillars. Feeling of power coming from very ancient times. I am the only westerner. Many Hindus visit and pray. I sit on a bench. Some children come and giggle.... they are happy to speak to me and discuss in English. A Westerner is a very fun and exciting thing for them!
The most amazing thing in the temple is the huge bull, Nandi, 6m long by 3 m high. Nandi faces the inner sanctuary and only weights 25 tonnes! It is one of the largest Nandi of India and it is made of one single stone! Towers called gopurams reach high in the sky and seem to converse with the mutliple Gods in Heaven! I go inside the temple and there is puja, a fast prayer.... always with a donation.... I hate this system of donation and this lack of meditation. But Indians seem alright with it. Incense and candles contribute to giving a mystical atmosphere. In one of the temples, great pujas are prepared.... banana leaves with coconut, banana, jasmine and many gifts to the Gods are organised. The donation is very important up to 500 or 1000 rupees, which is so much money in India. I suppose that Indians believe in all these sacrifices and their belief makes them happy for a while....
01 September 2008-----10:05 AM--------------Card reading and superstition
Religion practised in India seems to belong to a very old and ancient time.... It is very difficult to understand from a westerner point of view. But my guess is that each Indian person has an intuitive understanding of the "ultimate reality" and that this world is not only the world we see with our own eyes.... The Indians have a very meditative mind by nature. Also when you're desperately poor, God might be your only hope!
Walking in the temples was quite soothing and calming after hectic Trichy. Outside on the main road leading to the bus, men were sitting on the pavement. They had a cage with a small yellow parrot.... and they offered to tell my good fortune thanks to little cards that you pick up by chance. They assured me that the cards were also in English! Real superstition! Small happiness and dreams for poor Indians.... Complete waste of money......