I've got to the stage now where I need to sort out all the pedals. The plans say to use a motor cycle type handlebar lever fastened to the gear change lever for clutch control. I decided against this - I'd prefer all the controls to be the same as a car. This meant I had to have 3 pedals. My first thought was to go to the breakers yard again and rip some out of an old car. Then I thought about the work involved to convert them to fit the buggy. So I opted to manufacture them from scratch. The plans show how to build the basic pedal out of stock bar. To be honest, it was quiet easy to fabricate the basic pedal. I even used an old trick I learned from my grass track racing days, and made the foot plate look really trick!! It's easy to do - just drill some marked out holes, then "spot weld" some blobs in between the holes for a extra grip none slip surface.

The brake pedal needed to be mated to an hydraulic master cylinder. The master cylinder works a calliper acting on the back axle (more on this to below). Anyhow the plans show how to build this pedal box. This was the hard part. Because the box had to be precise, I cut the 6mm thick steel by hand. It wasn't until I'd nearly finished that I noticed that the plans say "use 2mm steel"!! Oh well, my brakes are gonna feel solid !!! The master cylinder, by the way, is actually a clutch cylinder robbed from a Fright Rover van!! This was perfect because it is just a single cylinder - most car brakes work on "tandem" master cylinders these days

The brake is the only pedal that works hydraulically on my buggy, the clutch & throttle work on cables. The clutch on my engine has heavy duty clutch springs fitted - this makes clutch operation very heavy. So, for strength, I made another pedal box (out of 2mm steel this time) for the clutch, this time welding a cable mount inside. When I first assembled the box, the nipples kept braking off the inner cable because the clutch is so heavy. I had to modify how I joined the inner cable to the pedal. I hope this don't give me grief when I start to use the buggy later.

The throttle pedal was mounted without a pedal box. As the throttle operates very lightly, I thought a pedal box was an overkill.

The calliper I used was from a Yamaha FZ 750 rear I believe. This was donated by a mate and it came complete with pads. (Top dolla Jack!) I had to fabricate a mounting plate to get it to sit nice an square over the disc that I had already mounted on the rear axle. The calliper stops the whole rear axle, therefore both rear wheels, on application of the brakes.

I cut and shaped the mount, drilled the hole centres to suit the calliper, then the holes for the bearing mount. The disc bolts are close to the bearing bolts, but clear OK when the axle is spun. Later on I also added a torsion bar to the top on the calliper for good measure. I then made up a copper brake pipe, the same as a car one, to get the brake fluid from

the master cylinder to rear of the frame. I then bought a "Goodridge" braided flexable hose to run the fluid from the "car type" fitting on the end of the copper pipe on the frame, to the "motorcycle banjo" type fitting on the calliper. See more about this hose in the "Problems and Setbacks" section.