EXPLORING EUROPE BY BOAT

Canal de l'Est - Branche Sud

We were now returning to a narrow canal, passing through many small villages on our way.

One of The Canalside Villages	A Village Church with Tiled Roof

The first lock at Corre was manned. The lockkeeper presented us with a small yellow zapper and an instruction sheet. From here until just after Fontenoy le Chateau we would activate the locks by directing the zapper at a control box situated on the canal bank fifty metres or so before the lock.

The Zapper and Instruction Sheet	The Control Box

The canal up to Fontenoy passed through some stunning scenery. We admired the ingenuity and skill of the canal builders as we passed through sections cut through the rock. We kept our fingers crossed and held our breath as we passed through the winding 'tranchee' a few kms before Fontenoy, hoping we wouldn't meet a peniche coming the other way. We had already met six that day, on a canal which we had read does not have much commercial traffic. Getting passed these monsters can be quite tricky, especially if the canal is narrow, the trees are overhanging and the edges of the canal are shallow.

The Overhanging Trees forming a Tunnel

There were so many peniche that day because the Canal de l'Est had just reopened after a closure of three weeks. We were told three different versions as to why it had been closed. Either a peniche had crashed into the lock gates, or the little bridge over the lock had collapsed onto the gates or the lock walls had collapsed into the chamber. Having passed through many locks where the moss seemed to be the only thing holding the stones together, we favoured the last option. Whatever the reason many boats had been held up for a considerable length of time.

Fontenoy le Chateau had a good Port de Plaisance operated by the Crown Blue Line hire boat company. The village with its cobbled streets was an attractive one.

One Side of the Canal at Fontenoy le Chateau	The Other Side of the Canal at Fontenoy le Chateau

After Fontenoy we handed back the zapper as we were now faced with manual locks where it is normal to help the lockkeeper close and open the lock gates. When going uphill in French locks the best option is to be the only boat, the second best option is to be the second boat, the worst option is to be the first boat. This is because most of the lock keepers opened one set of sluices fully, then the other set fully, meaning any boat at the front is bounced from side to side. It is not fun.

We were faced with this situation during our first day out of Fontenoy. Many of the lockkeepers were students who seemed to think that their role was to fill the lock as quickly as possible, despite requests not to.

By the 17th lock of the day we were feeling very tired and rather dispirited. Then as we entered this lock, the storm broke. The dark clouds had been building up for an hour or so. Above our heads the thunder rumbled and lightning flashed. The rain came down so heavily it hurt. The young woman lockkeeper disappeared into a hut and refused to come out and then to top it all, as Ian was attempting to fasten off his rope, his glasses slid down his very wet nose and disappeared for ever. We looked at each other, tired and soaked and we started to laugh. What a day! All the tension we had been feeling went.

Han the owner of the Dutch sailing boat with whom we had travelled all day, climbed up the ladder and closed the gates behind us. With the ingress of rainwater and leaks through the upper gates, it gave us the gentlest rise in a lock we had had all day. By the time the storm stopped and the lockkeeper emerged, we were up and she merely had to open the gates. Han had travelled this canal before and he told us there was a reasonable mooring after the next lock. There was , miles from anywhere, but deep. It was wonderful to be safely moored up. We shared a very welcome arrival drink with Han and his wife.

Although we were in a quiet spot it was not without its advantages. We were told that if we gave the next lockkeeper our order that we could collect bread and croissants the next morning, and we did. As the lock was filling the lockkeeper brought out our breakfast

That day we were in the locks on our own. This meant we could stay near the back of the lock. What a difference to our enjoyment. Soon we had climbed to the top of this section of the canal, 362 metres above sea level. We then went down towards Épinal through a series of automatic locks. Again we were at the front of the lock but going down it presented no problem.

A Village along the Canal de l'Est	Looking Back from a Lock

From Épinal the Canal de l'Est ran along side the River Moselle with high wooded hills in the distance, a very attractive scene. The canal changed its name after Neuves-Maisons, becoming La Moselle canalisée.

The Canal de l'Est and the Nearby River Moselle	The River Moselle

It was wide with a series of very large locks. The boats which had left the mooring early were made to wait until there were several boats in the first lock. It was after the first lock, as we were travelling at the rear of a convoy of 7 boats, that in deep water we hit something submerged. At the second lock as we slowed down we could hear a high pitch noise coming from the shaft/propeller.

We arrived at Toul (which is in fact on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin) and discussed what we should do. One of the greatest drawbacks of boating in France, as far as we have observed is the scarcity of boatyards and engineers for pleasure boats. At Toul we were put in contact with a travelling boat/car mechanic. He arranged for a liftout so that we could at least see what the problem was. This however was at a Port de Commerce near Nancy, at a quay lined with coal and logs. We had to wait till a peniche was loaded with its cargo of logs before we could get to the crane. The crane operators were very efficient and soon had us out. Unfortunately it was not a problem that our mechanic could fix. The bracket and bearing, through which the shaft passes, had been knocked out of alignment and so the shaft was not aligned centrally. Not good news. We would have to manage using the other engine from now on.

We now had to go to Nancy to meet our daughter Julie and her boyfriend, who had been in Paris and were coming to spend time with us. We spent an evening in the exotic surroundings of Place Stanislaw, enjoying a meal with them and tried to forget our problems. The following day we returned to Toul.

Toul has a very spacious port de plaisance with room for over 40 boats. The water here was clear and green, tempting many people to take a dip. Toul still has much of its ancient walls and moat surrounding the town. To enter the town meant passing through one of its old gate ways, the nearest one to the port de plaisance being the Porte de France. At the Office de Tourisme we were given a sheet detailing a walk through its oldest streets and highlighting some of the significant buildings. A pleasant way to pass an afternoon.

On Friday evening we were entertained by the very French music played by the live band providing music for a dance right next to the port de plaisance. However Toul is not the place to be if you want a wild Saturday night. We walked into town at 8pm and were just in time to enjoy a quick drink before the bars closed!!!.

- from Corre to Neuve Maisons 38.50m X 5.05m, from Neuve Maisons to Toul 180m X 11.4 m

- 3.50m

- 1.80m

Fontenoy le Chateau- Port de Plaisance

Ozemaine - Grass Quai

Girancourt -Village Quay

Épinal- Port de Plaisance

Charmes - Canalside - (Port de Plaisance full)

Richardménil- Halte Nautique

Toul- Port de Plaisance

Nancy- Quai

Toul- Port de Plaisance

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