Firstly a simple request: Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.

There are many approaches to this subject and many conflicting views. This is what I have found works for me.

I currently use a Nikon D200 with the excellent Sigma 150mm EX DG Macro lens. I do not use flash for outdoor insect macro photography unless I absolutely have to - and that is rare. I use a Manfrotto 190ProB tripod with 222 Joystick head, or for travelling light a 680B Monopod, but the tripod is my preferred method.

Any camera that will focus on a close subject will take decent insect macro photographs as long as you have the ability to use it. A favourite saying of mine is “Robin Hood is always more important than the bow and arrow.” However, better gear makes it easier. “Prosumer” or “Bridge” cameras offer much to the insect macro photographer and can produce some stunning results. If pressed I'd recommend a DSLR and a long macro lens. I got some great shots with the Sigma 50mm Macro when I owned it - but the very short working range made using a tripod almost impossible. When I moved up to the 150mm lens my hit rate went through the roof. The working distance is often only a foot further away - but that sometimes makes all the difference. When stalking something like a Hawker dragonfly, that has the reactions and eyesight to chase down and catch other dragonflies on the wing, a longer focal length is invaluable.

Here are some nuggets of advice picked up from friends and from our old pal experience:

Set up your camera before you start to hunt the bugs. Spotting that elusive lesser freckled warble moth and getting the chance for just one shot, then realising your camera is still set on ISO100 at F22 from last night's landscape shoot, is a painful experience that most of us have had (Well maybe not with the ELFW Moth.) So if you intend shooting for bugs - set the camera appropriately before you start the hunt.

Typical settings for me in decent daylight will be...

* Aperture priority mode
* F8 - this is my starting point. If I have enough light I will go smaller. Depth of field is very shallow at macro range - even with the sort of apertures that give full scene focus in more conventional settings.
* ISO400 - Again, with depth of field at a premium a higher ISO means a smaller aperture at a given shutter speed. Only if I get a lot of light (I'm in the land of the grey sky after all), will I lower the ISO.
* Centre weighted metering (I have spot metering set on the programmable button on the front of my D200)

This is my basic working method - a titbit I picked up about a year ago from a friend on another forum that instantly improved my wildlife photography in general. As soon as you see something that looks worth photographing, get a shot. Your camera will already be set up to something like the right settings, so get a shot. Then work to compose a better shot and work to get closer. Often this initial "get a shot shot" is the only shot you will get and can sometimes be surprisingly good.

I usually fire off 3 shots at a time. Bugs move - the leaf or stem your bug is on moves - and depth of field is at a premium with this type of photography. Even three shots taken in succession without moving will often reveal different detail and quality.

After the initial "Get a shot shot" don't just try to get as close as you can before taking the next shot. Move in a little, take three shots, move a little closer, take three shots. Stealth is the name of the game here. Insects are very sensitive to movement - so move slowly and carefully. It may take time - I've spent 30 minutes photographing one bug, taking a lot of photos in the process just to get that one keeper. It's not as if I'm buying film so I'm definitely a high volume shooter!

If a subject’s eyes are in the shot – make sure you get them in focus. This basic rule of portrait photography still applies if your portrait is of a bug!

A tripod helps in more ways than just stability - it makes you slow down. Yes you will miss shots that you would maybe have got handheld, but learn to use a tripod correctly and smoothly and your percentage of keepers will go up. You still have the option to take the camera off the tripod for difficult to reach subjects. But if you find that elusive bug that is happy to pose all day for you - you will wish you brought your tripod.

Our old friend Depth of Field rears its ugly head again. The more parallel to your subject you can get, the more of it will be in focus. Even at perfectly parallel a full frame shot of a butterfly will be a difficult subject to get wingtip to wingtip sharpness. The difference between the distance to the centre of the shot and the wingtips may only be a few millimetres - but that is often all the depth of field you have!

Just occasionally you will come across that rarity - the bug that is happy to pose for you whilst you snap away at your leisure. Now is the time to drop the ISO, dig in the tripod, break out the remote release and use mirror lock up. Without resorting to dabbing superglue onto twigs, this is not a common occurrence. If it happens, take your time, fill up that memory card and enjoy!