How to Make
by
Create the Mood

1859 ball gown
under construction

images were analysed to understand the construction and sizes of rosette and ribbon loops


1865

1864
late 1860's

front

underside

1. make rosette

base
Rosette base from millinary buckram, wired with plastic tube.

box-pleat ribbon

cut strips from fabric
 

Iron-on glue was used to avoid increased bulk.


measure (against card), fold edges in, and iron

interline with iron-on glue

to box pleat: use a piece of cardboard and an iron on the ironing-board

to hold the pleats down:
catch each pleat with stitch in matching thread, pull tightly

add box-pleats to base
The box-pleated strip was pinned then sewn to the covered base in a spiral.

   
 
2. ribbon loops


make ribbon loops
The top row of loops is 4 inches wide: the rest are 8 inches wide

I added gold fabric lining to give a glint of gold under candle-light!

 

add loops to rosette
the top three 4 inch loops were made separately and sewn directly onto the rosette base.

 



Put together and sewn onto rosette base.

 


underneath

top

Subsequent loops are sewn onto lining fabric to reduce bulk at the waist. This lining fabric is then sewn onto the rosette base.

The mess underneath will be covered up with a circle of fabric when all loops have been completed.


to be continued  
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last updated 9 October, 2012