Tuition for Absolute Beginners
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Well you’ve bought a uke - now what? You’ve never played any kind of instrument before except the kazoo, so where do you start? Musical Knowledge Well, it does help if you can understand chord names, keys, Major and Minor, Sevenths and so on. Having played another instrument helps, particularly if it is a fretted instrument, for example, guitar chords are almost identical.However it is not absolutely necessary - you learn as you go on. Playing Ability This is essential if you are going to be any good. You need Rhythm - like a good dancer, Co-ordination - can you tap your head and circle the tummy at the same time? And you must practice - it is essential to make progress. The Ukulele Banjo (or Banjo Ukulele) The fingerboard length was retained but the small guitar shaped body was replaced by a small drum covered with a tightened goat or calfskin vellum and a resonator fitted to amplify the sound. Sound was transmitted from the gut strings through a bridge situated at a specific point on the skin. He christened the new instrument ‘Banjulele’ and patented the name. This instrument was still tuned as a Ukulele and played with the same chord shapes but the new players of the time began to create new styles of playing of their own. From 1920 onwards, Ukulele Banjos were made in
thousands as their popularity increased. Cheap and easy to play, many
manufacturers emerged between the 1920’s and the 1930’s such as
Gibson, Ludwig, Bacon & Day and Abbott who produced some lovely
instruments, many of them still around today and lovingly cherished by
their owners. The Vellum The Vellum needs to be very tight so that the bridge sits on it without making any indentations. It is tightened by screwing the nuts on each of the tension rods clockwise a little at a time so pulling the bezel down evenly and gradually. There are 10 tension rods on this instrument and the resonator needs removing to gain access to the nuts. A tube spanner is ideal for this purpose and when tightening, the nuts should be moved no more than half a turn at a time working diagonally around the body following the numbered sequence. With the Vellum at the correct tension the instrument will have a bright crisp sound. Once a Vellum had been tightened sufficiently it will need a little more tension occasionally as it stretches slightly with time. The Bridge Strings They are generally nylon, but occasionally gut strings may be available. There are many different manufacturers and are usually clear but may be coloured or even black. The first and fourth string are the same diameter, the second a little larger and the third having the largest diameter. The string should have the same diameter throughout its length. Fitting a new set of strings is fairly easy, usually tying a knot or a loop in one end at the tailpiece and stretching it along the neck to the appropriate tuning peg, winding the string three or four times around the peg in the right direction, threading it through the hole in the peg and tensioning each to the required pitch. Once fitted, new strings stretch quite a lot and the instrument will need tuning quite frequently until the strings have ‘settled in’. Any excess string is cut off.
Tuning Pegs These, once tightened, should hold the string in tension. The amount of friction is determined by the tightness of the small screw in the end of the tuning peg. If the string starts to slip the small screw will need tightening. Do not over tighten or damage to the Tuning peg may result.
Resonator and Tension Rods Fitted on to the back of the instrument, helps to amplify and project the sound forwards. The shoes holding the tension rods can be seen here attached to the body of the instrument. The hook of the tension rod fits in to holes drilled in the bezel. Also see the looped strings attached to the tailpiece. Playability Neck Angle and Position
The height of the strings above the playing position is determined by the height of the bridge and the angle of the neck. The neck should meet the body so that the fingerboard is level with the Vellum, but the neck should be slightly angled down so that the height of the strings is about 3/16 inch (4 mm) above the Vellum at the playing position. The 1/2 inch (13 mm) bridge should be sanded down to approximately 3/8 inch (10 mm) on fine sandpaper, ensuring the feet are level and slightly angled so that the bridge will lean towards the tailpiece. The neck angle can be adjusted by removing the Resonator, slacking the screws holding the neck to the body and inserting a leather or fibre shim between the neck and the body of the instrument to increase the angle. This is a trial and error method but the correct angle can be achieved with patience. Tuning the Instrument (My Dog Has Fleas) The easiest method is by using an electronic Chromatic Tuner. These devices cost about £20 but are well worth it. Simply switch on and tune each string by tightening or slackening the Tuning Peg to the desired level and the Chromatic tuner will indicate exactly the desired pitch of the note. You could use a Pitch Pipe consisting of four tuning pipes which are blown individually and tuning each string by ear.
Holding the Instrument Natural - Standing Artificial Aids - Standing These devices are not recommended however, as supporting the instrument with the forearm facilitates the correct strumming action with the right wrist. Sitting Chords In order to obtain a clear sound when playing chords,
the fingers of the left hand must press the strings firmly, just behind
the fret so that the string sits on the fret without being obstructed by
the other fingers. |
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Well this looks easy doesn’t it? But if you’ve never done this before, those fingers will seem like sausages and they just will not go where you want them to go - and even if they seem to be in the right place, it just doesn’t sound right. Make sure that you are pressing the strings firmly just behind the frets. Not on the fret or you will just get a dull thud instead of a bright note. You need to practice these three chords over and over again, changing positions from one chord to another so that it becomes an automatic process. Only strum the strings lightly, downwards, with the nail of the index finger - no fancy stuff yet! Chord Boxes These show
strings vertically and frets horizontally. The finger positions are either
blocked in dots or numbered circles to show which finger to use. The boxes below show the fingers represented as numbers, the index finger being number 1 and the little finger being number 4. You will see that the little finger is not used in this sequence of chords - only fingers 1,2 and 3. The vertical lines represent the strings, that on the right being the First string and that on the left being the Fourth string. Isn’t this easy? The top horizontal line is the ‘Nut’ where the strings first meet the fretboard and the next three horizontal lines represent frets 1,2 and 3. |
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