The island of Lindisfarne, which lies just off the coast of
Northumberland, looks an almost magical place when viewed from the mainland.
Occasionally shrouded in seasonal mists, it is cut off by the tide twice a day.
Yet tourists turn up in their thousands every year, many searching for the peace
and tranquility found by the early pilgrims who went there.
Better known as Holy Island, it is easily reached by car at low tide via the
three-mile causeway. The more energetic can follow the traditional pilgrim route
and cross the sands using a clearly marked path, which takes about
one-and-a-half hours.
Once on the island, even today, it is impossible not to feel the remoteness of
the place or imagine the hardships faced by the early Celtic missionaries in
this far-flung corner of north-east England. Nevertheless, it has a certain
charm and there is a distinct feeling that you are treading upon holy ground -
as indeed you are, for two of England's best-known saints preached the Gospel
here.
St
Aidan arrived in AD 635 to establish a monastery at the request of King Oswald.
After a lifetime of devotion to God, he died at Bamburgh in AD 651 and was
buried under the altar in the monastery he had founded.
In the same year that St, Aidan began his work on the island, a boy called
Cuthbert was born. He grew up to be a shepherd and, according to one legend, was
tending sheep in the Lammamuir Hills the night St. Aidan died. On seeing
shooting stars, he believed them to be angels coming to take the dying saint to
heaven and, at that, moment decided he, too, would become a monk and entered the
monastery at Melrose on the Scottish Borders.
Cuthbert arrived on Holy Island in AD 664, where he stayed until AD 676 when,
choosing the life of a hermit, he went to live in a cell on one of the Farne
islands where he stayed until his death in AD 687, despite being appointed
Bishop of Lindisfarne in AD 685.
When, more than a decade after his death, monks exhumed Cuthbert's body with the
intention of moving it to a more honourable spot, it was found to be totally
intact.
The uncorrupt body was then placed in a splendidly carved wooden coffin. When
the monks were forced to flee the island to escape attacks by the Vikings, they
took the saint's remains with them. Today, the coffin lies in a shrine at Durham
Cathedral.
Lindisfarne
Priory was rebuilt in the latter part of the 11th century by the Benedictine
Monks as an extension of the priory at Durham. But after the dissolution of the
monasteries in the 16th century it was left abandoned.
The Church of St. Mary the Virgin stands next to the priory ruins. Said to be
the oldest building on the island, a small Saxon arch can still be seen in the
wall that divides the nave from the chancel. Inside the church, you can see a
copy of the Lindisfarne Gospels, completed by Eadfrith in the seventh century.
The originals are kept in the British Library in London, although there are many
that feel they should be returned to their original home.
Outside the church stands the quot;Petting Stone", said to have been part
of St. Cuthbert's Cross. For centuries, it has been a tradition for brides to
jump over it to ensure a happy marriage.
Close by is St. Aidan's winery, where Lindisfarne Mead is made. You may continue
the short walk into the island's village, with its gift shops, tea room and
public house.
Just beyond the village lies the small natural harbour, frequented by yachts
during the summer season. Fishing remains one of the island's main industries
and the catch is served in many of the local hotels and restaurants. Near the
water's edge upturned herring boats make useful and attractive storerooms.
About a quarter of a mile offshore, you will see St. Cuthbert's Island, which
can be reached on foot at low tide. It is said that the saint used this tiny
island as a retreat and built a small chapel there. A cross marks the spot where
the altar once stood.
Built in the 16th century from the stones taken from the abandoned priory,
Lindisfarne
Castle, originally a fortress against the Scots, stands dramatically perched on
a basalt rock rising some 300 feet above the sea.
It was bought in 1902 by Edward Hudson (the then owner of Country Life
magazine) in a very bad state of repair. Looking for someone who would turn it
into a home, but without spoiling the original design, he chose the young Edwin
Lutyens.
At the start of what was to become a successful informal partnership, the
architect joined forces with the artist and gardener Gertrude Jekyll, who laid
out the walled garden there between 1906 and 1912.
Today the castle is in the hands of the National Trust, having been given to
them by Edward de Stein and his sister in 1944. The garden is still lovingly
tended, sheltered from the North Sea gales by the high walls. Part of the island
is a nature reserve, attracting many rare birds, and has become an
ornithologist's paradise.
But, if you are planning to visit Holy Island, let me give you a word of
caution. Never attempt to cross the causeway if the tide has already started to
turn. It approaches very fast and many people have found themselves stranded in
the emergency huts - tiny wooden structures on stilts - for hours. Check the
safe crossing times, displayed at each end of the causeway.
