My next GT6 rebuild

My next project car is a 72 mark 3 fitted with a 2500 fuel injected engine. The car has been off the road for the last 14 years and requires some tender loving care to get it back to its former glory. This link shows the car as I found it stored at a farm, the previous owner had started the rebuild some years ago but never found the time to complete it.

After getting the car home the first job was too strip as much off the car as possible, doors, fuel tank, tailgate and quarter lights - basically anything bolted on! This was made easier this time as the interior was totally removed from the car already.

I then with assistance lifted the body off. Again this was fairly easy as the body mounting bolts were already removed.


This picture was taken of the chassis before any restoration work after the body had been removed.




This picture shows the front end after the body had been removed.




This picture shows the body removed, stood behind the chassis.



At this point I decided to work the rebuild order different to the last rebuild. Because the body tub on this car seemed to be in better condition and only really needing a rear wing and sills I started on the chassis and associated parts first.

The rear drive shafts and hub, spring and differential were removed. The differential's condition was unknown, but after removal and cleaning the backlash was checked and appeared to be OK. I originally said I "decided to take a small gamble and not open the diff as it felt good on the input and output flanges". I changed my mind on this and the following morning I opened the diff - luckily all was OK, but I did decide to change the input and output seals since I had it open.


Drive shaft assembly after removal.




The rear hubs and drive shafts were then stripped down.


Drive shaft assy stripped down.



New bearings were fitted in the hubs and new UJ's to the driveshafts

The chassis was now painted with chassis black paint to just past the the front outriggers. This was done because I was not going to remove the engine on this rebuild and so I decided I would rebuild the front suspension last after the body was finished and painted. I must add that I know this is not an ideal way of rebuild procedure but the chassis was in such good condition and the engine had already been rebuilt.

The differential was then refitted to the chassis after a coat of black paint.

The rear drive shafts and hub were next cleaned and painted with chassis black paint and then rebuilt using the original rotoflex couplings as they are expensive and the originals were OK. The brakes were stripped and rebuilt with new cylinders.


Drive shaft assy rebuilt.




The freshly painted drive shafts and hubs were then fastened back onto the chassis.


Dif and drive shafts fitted back into the chassis. NOTE that I have left 3 of the rotaflex bolts loose, this is to reduce the chance of damage to the couplings before the car bodys weight is on the suspension. These will be tightened when the body is refitted.




The body tub was gently rolled onto its side, I then cut the outer sills off after first checking that the inner sills were still in good condition so keeping tub rigidity. I also cut the fibreglass righthand rear wing off. All signs of rot were now ground/cut out. The sill strengtheners, floor pan edges and lower rear wing sections were fairly good and didn't require much attention.


The RH sill and rear wing prior to removal.




Another view of the RH sill and rear wing prior to removal.




Rear inner lower wing after repair.




Rear inner wing after repair.




LH sill before removal, this sill was solid but not straight.



Rubber washers were now placed on the chassis and then the body was gently lifted back onto the chassis and the 12 body mounting bolts were refitted.

Now to fit the main body panels. The genuine rear RH side outer wing was offered up to the car to double check correct fitment, all around the edge of the wing was now drilled with a 1/4" drill and the rear wing then clamped in place with fixing clamps. The genuine outer sill was now drilled and then clamped onto the car, (I strongly recommend fitting genuine sills as pattern sills just don't fit correctly without a lot of adjustment). The door was now refitted and the two panels were then adjusted to give the correct fit around the door. The bottom lip of the wing and sill was then checked for alignment against the floor edge and adjusted as required. The D panel (filler panel at the front of the sill) was now fitted using self tapping screws. The bonnet was then fitted to check front wing to sill alignment and when all the alignments were correct the door was removed and the rear wing and sill were then plug welded into place. The self tapping screws were then removed and the D panel plug welded. Any excess weld was then ground off and the fixing clamps were then removed. The filler panel which fits between the A post and the sill was then drilled, fitted and plug welded into position.

The process was then repeated for the other side of the car, remember time spent at this stage of the rebuild is in my opinion the most important as once the car is painted there is no going back!


The driver side rear outer wing, sill and A post filler panel after plug welding into place.




The LH side sill after plug welding into place.



The doors were then refitted using new gaskets and bolts.


Passenger side of the car complete and ready for paint.



All the new joints and the bulk head were them painted with 2 pack primer and flatted off with wet and dry.



The bonnet was next checked over, the nose had been repaired at sometime and was not straight, this had to be cut out and rebuilt.


The bonnet showing the repaired nose section.



The exterior of the car was then given a good rudding down using a electric sander and wet and dry. The car was now ready for paint. The front suspension units were next totally stripped down painted and rebuilt using new trunions, ball joints and bushes. It was at this point that I noticed that the turrets did not match! one side was GT6 the other Spitfire. They are very simular and it is only on very close observation that the diference can be noticed, but there is a diference so a new GT6 turret would have to be fitted. At this point I decided the engine would have to come out, it would make things a lot easier in the long run. While removed the engine was given a fresh coat of paint.


The engine after painting.



A good secondhand turrent was sourced, painted and fitted. The front of the chassis was now painted as well.

Next the brake discs were also skimmed. The brake calipers were rebuilt using new pistons and seals. The suspension units were then fitted back onto the chassis' matching turrets.

The last rebuild (the mark2)was sprayed professionally because I wanted it spraying in 2 pack, having no breathing apparatus and 2 pack having isocianates in it left me little option but this time I had bought all the safety gear including most importantly an air fed mask.

The doors and bonnets were now removed and the car and parts were sprayed in 2 pack primer and then flatted off with wet and dry paper.


The car after primer.



Next top coat in Triumph 19 white. I gave the car 3 coats even though 2 is said to be enough, this would make flatting and polishing less chance or cutting though the paint.


The body tub after top coat.



The head lining was now fitted (I thought best do it now, it would be rather upsetting to fit the windscreen and realise that the screen had to come out to fit the head lining properly).


The head lining in the process of being fitted.



Next engine back in and start putting the bulkhead back together after first replacing the master cylinder seals.


bulkhead with master cylinders fitted.



The bonnet and doors were next fitted and lined up.


Bonnet and doors re fitted.



I now started rebuilding the car. The sill carpets were then glued into place, the interior was replaced.

The glass was the re fitted, and then the doors rebuilt.


Interior in the process of refitment.




Views after tailgate refitted and glass installed.