chester city walls pub walk

Author Jonathan Swift, when visiting Chester, once wrote "The Walls of this town are full of renown, and strangers delight to walk round 'em, but as for the dwellers, both buyers and sellers, for me, you may hang 'em or drown 'em." Hmmm. Wonder what upset him so much? Are us Cestrians really that bad? Maybe the poor fellow had had a bad experience exploring the taverns and ended up in the 17th Century equivalent of today’s raucous binge bars selling exclusively bottled Blue Grog and flagons of Fizzieale. Anyway, with the Walls more popular now than they were in Swift’s era, we’d hate to see today’s tourists have a woeful time of things on the beer front. With some cracking pubs to be visited here’s a brief guide to would-be mural circumnavigators in need of a tipple during their near two mile yomp.

Eastgate Clock	the Albion

Preferably armed with a guide book so you can read up on the sites as you go along, commence from Chester ’s most famous landmark, the Eastgate Clock, and head southwards. After next to no distance take some steep steps off the walls to your left (opposite Newgate Walk) to bring you out on St John Street. Look to the left and, over the road, you'll see the mock tudor facade of the Marlborough Arms. This small, one-roomed pub, run by two keen young licencees, serves three ales from the highly regarded Oswestry-based Stonehouse Brewery. A fine way to start the circuit! Re-trace your steps and, once you've crossed Newgate, with views of the under-utilised amphitheatre, you can look down on the Roman Gardens before arriving at the Albion. You'll spot it easily on your right, just past the Nine Houses, occupying a corner section of Victorian terrace housing. This pub really is a classic with more than a touch of the eccentric. Outside, blackboards declare itself “family hostile” and boast of the absence of fry-ups, silly foil portions, designer drinks and so on. Inside, reflecting the landlord’s passionate interest, all three rooms (decorated with William Morris wallpaper) are festooned in memorablia of the Great War. Beers usually Taylor Landlord, Jennings Cumberland and Black Sheep Bitter plus the odd unusual guest ale. The grub is superb, good value and traditional. Our recommended food stop.

the Wishing Steps	the Bear & Billet

Back to the Walls, and take care down the Wishing Steps whilst admiring the splendid panorama of the tree-lined Groves, the River Dee, its weir and the sandstone Old Dee Bridge. Just before the approaching Bridgegate, take a slipway to the right as this leads you out opposite the visually stunning, 17th century, timber framed, multi-windowed Bear & Billet. This popular pub was once the townhouse of the Earls of Shrewsbury but sadly, in this celebrity obsessed world, people get more excited at it being the birthplace of John Lennon’s grandmother. Sigh. As it’s owned by Isle of Man brewer Okells expect their ales on the handpumps alongside a couple of guests and genuine cider.

Brewery Tap

Races and the Walls

Next, head up Lower Bridge Street on the same side as the Billet and just before Castle Street and the Olde Kings Head you'll find steps leading to the Brewery Tap. Opened in November 2008, the pub belongs to microbrewers Spitting Feathers who have done a fabulous conversion job on what was once, and still resembles, an old Jacobean banqueting hall. Another feast for the eyes are seven handpumps despatching four ales from the owners plus three rotating guests and a real cider. Marvellous.

Finally, before returning to mural activities, consider also a visit to the Ship Inn in Handbridge which is immediately on your right after crossing the river. This former local has been transformed into a smart bar with upstairs restaurant. It sells Black Sheep Bitter plus guest ales.

Gird your loins for the next stretch of the walk as what follows is the longest without cask refreshment. Rejoin at the Bridgegate and the Walls take you by the County Hall and castle with views of Grosvenor Bridge. Once over a pedestrian crossing you come to the Roodee’s tightly enclosed racecourse. On race days you can enjoy free close-up action of the runners and riders as well as hordes of well-lagered blokes with Racing Posts sticking out of their back pockets and cackling women wearing silly hats and ill-fitting gaudy dresses.

the Fat Cat	Telford's Warehouse

Exit at Watergate and no distance up the street on the right is the Fat Cat – a cellar-bar which often includes Storm brewery beers amongst its range. If that doesn’t tempt you, carry on only briefly. After crossing the railway and reaching the Water Towers, Telford ’s Warehouse lies ahead of you accessible by some steep descending steps. This airy, converted warehouse overlooks the Tower Wharf canal basin and is the city’s premier live music venue. Inside a cosmopolitan crowd enjoy some unusual microbrewery beers including Weetwood Cheshire Cat. The food’s good too.

the Pied Bull	the Coach House

For our next ports of call, retrace your steps and clamber back onto the Walls. Cross over the inner ring road and get off at the Northgate. Walking into the city, first up on the right is the Pied Bull, a former coaching inn with six guest ales including two from a SIBA approved list. Further on, next door to the city’s marvellous 19^th century Gothic-style Town Hall is the Coach House. Although food orientated there’s nevertheless a good selection of ales here with local north-west microbrewery beers supplementing the regular Thwaites range.

King Charles Tower	the Ship Victory

Rejoin the Walls as they now run alongside a vertigo-inducing canal cutting until you reach the Kings Charles Tower. After a further fifty yards or so, take some steps off leading down to the canal towpath. Turn right and at the first bridge, climb the stairs onto Frodsham Street. Turn left and at the traffic lights, look left again to spot the Ship Victory standing almost alone in a sea of cars at Gorse Stacks, the old cattle market. This GBG regular is a small, friendly community-focused pub which sells Tetleys and one impeccably kept guest beer. 

Chester Cathedral	the Boot	Duttons

Back one last time for the final short leg of the mission. After passing Chester's underrated sandstone cathedral and its stand alone campanile you'll be back where you started. If you're still up for more action (surely yes), head along Eastgate passing the swanky five-star Grosvenor Hotel on your left. Immediately after the junction with St Werburgh Street access the Eastgate Row North via some steps. Two options now. Not far ahead is the historic Boot Inn, a popular Sam Smiths house which once witnessed the murder of royalist troops in the civil war. Nowadays it's busy with people enjoying the cheapest pint in a generally expensive town. Alternatively head down Godstall Lane - a little boutique alley leading off the Row to the cathedral. Down here you'll find a modern bar called Duttons which has rare outside seating and gets wedged with diners during the day. Tied to Manchester brewer Lees it serves their standard bitter plus one seasonal ale.

So, there you have it. The approximate two mile circuit is complete. Next time the Chester Canal Crawl.

MORE INFO:
► Chester City Council Walls Trail
► Chester: A Virtual Stroll Round the Walls