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Jesuit Refugee Service - UK




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Reflection on 2 Years with JRS on the Thai-Burma Border 

As I queued up with some of the 500,000 UK tourists who fly to Thailand each year, there was certainly a sense of unreality about the challenge ahead. I wasn't in a holiday mood nor was I wearing a palm tree pattered shirt, but  I was thinking about a different sort of adventure in the Thai jungle. Over 500 miles north-west of Bangkok the dense jungle along the Burma border conceals a little known secret. The ethnic groups in Burma experience forced relocation and conscription into the half million strong Burmese army, and suffer human rights abuses by the military government of Burma, the SPDC (State Peace and Reconciliation Committee). Hence the existence of a dozen or so refugee camps on Thai soil and numerous other refugees living precariously as unregistered aliens.

Those reach the haven of the camps past landmines, SPDC patrols and the hazards of the dense mountainous jungle at least can receive medical help, schooling and enjoy a degree of security that has long since gone in their homeland. 

The JRS Education Project in two of the camps helps support nearly 7,000 students and 420 teachers in 20 schools. Some of the teachers have received little more than Primary education and very few have been trained. Most of the JRS staff being part of the ethnic Karenni group, are confined to Camp. The JRS Program is divided into KG and Primary, Middle and High School and a Teacher Training College where an intensive one year course provides some preparation for up to 40 student teachers a year.  

The schools are basic bamboo structures with teak leaves for roofing, skillfully balanced on the steep slopes of the humid jungle built by parents, students and staff. Health and Safety officials would have a field day observing small kids with big machetes chopping roof beams from trees way up in the jungle canopy, to say nothing of the dangers of the occasional snake, scorpion and hungry mosquito.  Any flat land is snapped up quickly for the soccer and volleyball pitches providing a great place to let off steam for energetic school kids and the many young males with little work and much time on their hands.  

If you thought French was a challenge at school you may think again when you hear the seemingly incomprehensible ethnic languages spoken in camp, though Burmese is the main language used in meetings and in schools.  

The Karenni are a mixture (sometimes literally) of animist, buddhist, baptist and catholic faiths who all share a healthy respect for each other, joining in with their respective religious celebrations. In fact barely a month goes by without some festival and the ensuing rituals, dances, sports competitions and obligatory (except for the Baptists) consumption of local brew, followed by hangover. 

Our main task in JRS (apart from the aforementioned duty) is to work with the Karenni Education Department (KnED) in subject training, lesson planning and teaching methods, classroom management, head teacher leadership skills and vocational training. This last topic has been my main focus in the last year as preparation for life in a remote jungle homeland is rather different from skills required in the average city with supermarkets and 24 hour internet access. The courses include first aid, carpentry, sewing/weaving, agriculture and mechanics taught mainly by local trainers from camp. 

JRS staff regularly visit the schools with resources, observing lessons and giving suggestions, providing 'exemplar' lessons and generally helping to motivate staff and students alike.  Being the JRS coordinator for the Middle/ High Schools, I am invited to 'say a few words' at  countless Opening Ceremonies, Closing Ceremonies, Prize Giving Days, 'Unveiling of Notice Board Days', Sports Days, (all followed by a hearty lunch - with rice wine), various staff meetings, monthly (very long) head teacher meetings and end of intensive in-service training sessions. Hence my purchase of 'Quote for all Seasons' and subscription to  'Anecdote Weekly' seem a shrewd investment. Visits to classes are a delight for any teacher and the students' enthusiasm, respect and gratefulness make up for the puddles on the floor, invasions of chickens and the oven like temperatures of summer.  

There are of course many stories of tragedy and courage amongst the 20,000 refugees.  As a young child, one girl now in Standard 5, had seen nine family members  lined up and shot in her village. Students find solace in sketching pictures in art lessons depicting blazing villages torched by rampaging SPDC troops. Many children were forced to be child soldiers or porters for the army, some showing bullet wounds and scars to prove it. My colleague at JRS, Sebastian Day Paw, fled for his life after the Junta crackdown on political dissidents, leaving his elderly parents behind. He now has three young children of his own who will never see their grandparents unless there is a change of government in Burma.  A constant appeal from the students is for us to remember them and their story, to tell the outside world why they are forced to flee their country. Many of the younger children have never been out of the camp except to the local jungle to gather bamboo shoots, mushrooms and vegetables to supplement their NGO rations of rice and yellow beans. 

As I contemplate my two amazing years here in the jungle camps with the JRS Education Program far from the beaches of Krabi and the bright lights of Bangkok, I recall, despite the frustrations, just how much I have received from the witness of the refugees. Apart from the countless smiles, warm friendships and stories of courage, other highlights for me are of crazy soccer matches on lunar like pitches and the JRS  'Discovery Zone'  on World Refugee day, when we brought  'exotic' sea fish, crabs and fruits never seen in Camp as well as sheep from a Thai farm and a shop dummy. We then cooked and served "traditional English pancakes” to dazed onlookers. The showing of 'Toy Story 2' and 'Crocodile Dundee' accompanied by "Goals of World Cup 2002” on a large LCD screen was truly the culture clash of the giants and opened up a whole new (and rather odd) world outside the confines of the camp. Well, don't they say that 'education broadens the mind ?' 

Many thanks to everybody who has been a part of this adventure in the jungle. Our hope is that peace will return to Burma and that the Karenni and other ethnic groups can return to their homeland soon. 

Rob Fenlon JRS,
Mae Hong Son, Thailand