East Kent Hunt Sabs - How to Sab

These tactics are not illegal per se. However, if carried out on private land in relation to a lawful activity, a criminal offence may be committed and we do not encourage any criminal acts.

Any new sabs should be 'briefed' on basic hunt sabotage and do's and don'ts. Bad sabbing or not knowing what to do can often mean the difference between life and death for the hunted animal.

After every sab, meet up with each other and have a de-briefing session to go over what went wrong, what could have been done better and just general analysis. Also keep records (hit reports) of every hunt sabbed for future reference (see sample hit report). it is also useful to meet up prior tothe hunt and discuss tactics etc.

Finally, at the end of the hunt, make sure you have the same number of sabs you started out with!

The Hunt Season
The Hunt
Scent
Fox Tactics
Sab Tactics - Pre-meet
Sab Tactics During the Hunt
Using Whips and Sprays
Horn Calls
The Dig-out Situation
The Bolting Situation
The Bagged Fox Situation
Cub Hunting
Cubbing Tactics
Some Important Notes About Cub Hunt Sabbing

The Hunt Season

The official cubhunting season is 4 August to 31 October, starting from 4 am in late July to 10.30 am in October. Early evening meets may also take place from about 4.30 pm (times vary from hunt to hunt.

The official foxhunting season commences 1 November and ends 1 May. Meets usually take place at 11am.

A fox hunt comprises the hounds, the Master (the person 'in charge'), the Huntsman (who hunts the hounds and is responsible for the kennels), the Whipper-in(assists the Huntsman and keeps the pack - hounds - together), the terrier-men (the hunt heavies responsible for the digout), the earth-stoppers (who go out prior to the hunt and block all the earths, the fence-menders, the mounted Field (those who ride with the hunt and rarely see a kill, being kept well in the background until the hounds are on to a scent), the foot followers and car supporters. Behind the scenes are the hunt commitee, the hunt supporters' club and the pony club. It is worth noting that the annual point-to-point event for each hunt takes place purely to raise funds for the next season's hunting.

The Hunt

The meet takes place at a pub, village green or farm. It may even take place at a subscriber's home, and is known as a lawn meet. The hunt may also meet in another hunt's country 'by invitation'.

After the meet, the hunt moves off to the first covert (wood) to be drawn, which may be some distance from the meet. The Huntsman and hounds lead, followed by the Master and Field. The hounds are then put into the covert and encouraged by the Huntsman (buy using hhis voice and/or horn) to explore and sniff out the fox.

The sounds used by the Huntsman can also have the dual purpose of getting the fox moving. If the earths have been blocked, the fox may be laying under a bush (foxes only use earths in moments of danger, or when raising young). The Whippers-in (Whips) will position themselves on the edge of the covert to signal to the Huntsman when a fox is seen to leave. The Field will be placed along the side of the covert where the Huntsman doesn't want the fox to run, eg, towards main roads etc. These people will also keep a look-out and 'holloa' (shout) if the fox is sighted,and inidcate its direction with an extended arm. A hat or hanky may also serve the same purpose.

Once the hounds are on to a scent and out of the covert, the Huntsman signals to the Master with a horn call and the Field gallops on after. Some hounds 'speak' (a weird yelp) when they find the scent. If the pack loses the scent (called 'checking'), the Huntsman will cast them in a wide arc in the hope of picking it up again. If they are able to pick up the scent again, the hounds will continue to hunt the fox nuntil they lose it or they tire the fox and kill it. If a fox enters another hunt's country it will be left alone ('given best').

If the fox goes to ground and it is decided to dig it out, the terriermen will be called in. Making sure that all escape routes from the earth, except one, are blocked, a terrier will be let into the earth to locate the fox and keep it holed up. Once the sounds within of confrontation ascertain where the fox is, the earth will be dug out, the terrier removed and digging will continue until the fox is reached and its head and shoulders exposed. It will be killed by a blow to the head or shot at point-blank range. After removing the trophies (head - mask; tail - brush; feet - pads), the remains will be thrown to the hounds.

Alternatively, the terrier will be entered in one hole and another hole will be strung with a rabbit net. The fox will be bolted into the net and killed. It is often the case that the fox is still alive when thrown to the hounds.

As the digging out of a fox can take some time, the rest of the hunt will not usually wait for the outcome. Sometimes the earth will be blocked with the fox inside and the terrier men will return later in the day to dig it out. Sometimes a bolted fox will be released, given a head start (law) and then re-hunted.

Hunting takes place in all weathers, unless there is risk of injury to the horses, eg, hard or slippery ground.

Scent

Good scenting conditions:

When the ground is wet
When the air is colder than the ground
When snow or frost is forthcoming
When the smoke from a garden fire or chimney stays low and does not rise
When the hunted animal is running upwind

Bad scenting conditions:

When the ground is dry
When the weather is stormy or unsettled
When the air is warmer than the ground
When frost is coming out of the ground
When there is a strong wind
When there is heavy rain
In fog, when you can smell the scent (you're taller than the hounds)
Roads, concrete and dry ground won't hold scent for long

Fox scent comes from various glands on the fox's body and, as the fox tires, the scent weakens. It is quite pungent and easily recognisable to humans.

Fox 'Tactics'

Foxes, like hares, will run the same line. They will lie in hedgerows and kale fields. They tend to run downwind when they are being hunted. They will cross obstacles such as rivers, railways and busy roads (hares won't) but it is hard to get a fox to move in cold, windy weather. When tired a fox will attempt to go to ground.

Sab tactics - Pre-meet

Search for blocked earths and, if blocked, unblock them. Make a note of the earths for future reference.
Secure gates in the area - causes inconvenience and delay to the hunt.
A useful tactic to use when you're familiar with the area the hunt uses, is to go out prior to the hunt setting off and thoroughly spray a known covert that they hunt. Not only will this mask the scent of any foxes for a while but the noise sabs make doing this may also serve to frighten any foxes in there away.

Sab Tactics During the Hunt

The huntsman should put his hounds in the wood down wind. He will draw them upwind so that the scent of the fox travels with the wind back to the hounds. The fox, however, will nearly always run downwind so that its scent follows it as it runs. Sabs are best positioned a field or so away down wind:

Once the fox has passed, sabs should spread out and spray all round where the fox has passed (preferably out of sight of the hunt) and then wait for the hounds so that they can be stopped by cracking the whips and clapping hands etc (this is called 'rating the hounds'). If a hornblower or a gizmo is at hand, try to call the hounds off the scent, remembering to call them away from the direction of the fox and not towards it. if you can't blow a horn, try calling the hounds with a sharp'yut!' or 'C'mon' - listen to the Huntsman's calls andcopy exactly what he says to call the hounds.

One other good position for sabs to wait is downhill from woods that are yet to be drawn,or are being drawn, as it is unlikely that a fox will run uphill (unless if has to). Also check for obvious fox or badger runs as these make excellent escape routes for the fox.

NEVER point at a fox or shout out where it is - this will only alert nearby hunt members or supporters to it. Also, NEVER make too much noise as you may scare a fox back into a wood or towards the hunt.

If it is safe to do so, pretend you have seen a fox and 'holloa'. This will often bring the hunt and hounds over and thus away from the true direction of the fox.

The best time to call hounds out of the wood is when most of the pack is at the edge of the wood nearest the sabs. Better still, when you see most of the hounds and the quarry is not between you and the hounds:

NEVER call hounds when they are at the opposite side of the wood to the sabs otherwise you may well call them on to a fox:

Try NEVER to go into a wood that is being held up. Going into a wood may serve to head a fox back towards the hounds - you will be acting as another hunt member. ONLY go into a large covert if ABSOLUTELY necessary and all sabs who go in (the bare minimum) should stick together to cover as small an area as possible. If you stick to paths and clearings, you reduce the risk of coming into contact with a fox and scaring it away from a potential escape route.

NEVER try to call hounds on to a busy road. If you call them on to a minor road,make sure there are sabs around to stop the traffic so that hounds can be taken straight across to the fields. Remember - if houndsa are under your direct control they are YOUR responsibility.

When hounds have lost the scent of a fox, they run in circles where they lost the scent. This is called 'checking'. When sabs know where the fox has gone, they should call the hounds the opposite way:

Have a driver constantly with each vehicle, not only to guard it against vandalism from hunt thugs, but also so that the vehicle is immediately available to pick up sabs or drive off in pursuit of the hunt. Also be ready to move off quickly to avoid being blocked in by supporters or the police.

If the hunted animal is heading towards you, stand perfectly still and quiet until it has passed. Any noise or movement may scareit back to the hunt. Then take appropriate action.

A red ribbon on the tail of a horse means it is liable to kick so avoid passing behind it.

Using the gizmo at the right time can be extremely effective. If the situation is suited and there is no danger of calling the hounds onto a fox, eg, if they are trying to get onto, or are already on, the scent. Play the gizmo and you should find the pack will come running over to you. Run with the gizmo playing and the hounds will follow (in the opposite direction, obviously, of any fox!). It is also worth playing the gizmo froom the van and driving slowly away with the pack following.

AVOID confrontation with riders and supporters - all the time you are arguing with them, the hunt is getting away and it may take ages before you can finally catch up with it again. Not only that, a fox could be chased while you are arguing.

(In the above picture, an East Sussex and Romney Marsh terrier man is caught on camera throwing a live fox to the hounds)

If you're being chased by a rider, have an escape route planned - say, over a fence or into a thick wood.

Sabs should ALWAYS stick together - stragglers are easy targets for hunt thugs. Keep a lookout for each other.

Any sab injured by the hunt should be taken to hospital for confirmation of injuries - essential if there is to be a court case.

All violent incidents should be recorded and filmed if possible as they may be needed as evidence in future legal action. Photograph the culprits, make notes and jot down car registration numbers of people involved. If it is a police incident, note down the officers' personal numbers.

Any incidents should be reported to the police as soon as possible after the event - leave it too long and those responsible could get away or approach the police first and place the blame on you.

Horn Calls

Drawing notes, (encouraging the hounds to find a fox)

4 short notes

On, on notes (encouraging the hounds to chase the fox)
A series of staccato notes

Calling out (fox not found)
Usually the same as the draw call but played 2 or 3 times with additional notes at the end

The dig/kill call
These 2 vcan sometimes be confused as they're not heard as often as the other notes and differ from hunt to hunt. They usually comprise 3 long tremulating notes

To collect the hounds
Long, winding call

To call hounds out of a wood
Use the calling-out notes

To slow the pack down
Blow long notes. This will also draw the hounds out of the wood

To split the pack in two
2 hornblowers should operate at either side of the hounds, but don't blow at the same time

To make the hounds follow a false scent or hunt on past the scent of a fox
Use the on, on call. This call can also be used with the gizmo

Only one person should blow to take the pack. It is important to learn the horn calls of the Huntsman but DO NOT practice horn blowing while at a hunt.

Using Whips and Sprays

When hounds are in cry and the fox has passed nearby, sabs should head to where it was last seen. if the fox has passed through a hedge, gate or fence, get to the side where it has passed and wait for the hounds. When they arrive, rate the hounds with the whips and by clapping hands (DO NOT whip the hounds). This should stop them in their tracks, especially with the physical barrier of the fence. It also helps if you shout commands to the hounds, such as 'Get back!' and 'Back to him!':

Whilst out sabbing, if you see a fox being chased by hounds change direction (jink) from its straight line, head to where the jink took place and spray in the new direction the fox has run:

When the hounds get to where the fox has jinked, they will run straight on before realising they have lost the scent. They will then run in a circle (called 'checking') to pick up the fox's new direction. Hopefully, they won't pick it up if it's been sprayed properly. Remember NOT to spray in front of hunt memebrs - the Huntsman will then take his hounds around the sprayed area.

As mentioned before, pre-spray coverts just before the hunt commences.

The Dig-out Situation

If you feel you can save a fox that has gone to earth, don't continue following the hunt (whiuch will have moved on, leaving the terrier-men to deal with the fox)and take the following action. Sit in all of the open tunnels and refuse tomove. If the fox has gone to earth near a public road or footpath, tell passers-by what's happening. if within fifty metres of a public right of way, the hunt shouldn't use the humane killer. Try to find out if the landowner has given permission for a dig-out.

If digging out has already started when you arrive on the scene, search around for blocked tunnels and open them by hand. make a lot of noise so that the terrier-men can't tell where the fox is. Film everything if you can.

A dig-out is invariably a potentially violent situation so the more sabs the better. Also, if a fox goes to earth in a badger sett, remember that it's illegal to dig badgers out and remind police of this - it may help to get the dig-out stopped. We have found that, in dig-out situations, sheer stubbornness and refussal to move on our part, coupled with the possibility of a situation that could be long-drawn out and get out of hand, plus plenty of sabs around, has meant that the police have 'advised' the hunt not to dig out. In such situations, refuse to move until you are assured that the hund till not dig out. Go back later and check once the hunt is finished.

The Bolting Situation

As the fox appears from the earth, the terrier-men will shout 'Gone away' or something similar - this is the signal for the hounds to be put on to the fox again. The best thingto do is to sit on the earth before the teriers are put in. Failing this, try to call the hounds off with horns and calls. Try to lead the hounds away from the earth. If you are sure the fox is to be bolted, stamp and make a lot of noise above the earth to keep the fox in.

If the hunt move off, the terrier-men may intend coming back later and will block the earth to keep the fox there. If this happens, wait until they go, unblock all the entrances very quietly and then leave. We had a wonderful moment once when a fox had gone to earth and the terrier-men blocked it up planning to come back later. When they had left we unblocked the earthg and, very cautiously, a beautiful but very scared and bedraggled fox appeared, looked at us for a few seconds and then ran off. Unfortunately, that day the hunt (the Ashford Valley) killed six foxes.

The Bagged Fox Situation

It is against the Master of Foxhounds guidelines for a fox to be caught and later released from a bag or box in a field close to the hounds. if you see this happening, film it and inform the Hunt Saboteurs Association(see Links section) and local and national press immediately. The HSA will take steps to bring charges against the hunt concerned before the Master of Foxhounds Association. Ther publicity ensuing from this would be damaging for foxhunting.

CUBHUNTING

The purpose of cubhunting is:

To train young foxhounds in pack work, to follow the older hounds, to obey the horn and calls of the Huntsman, to familiarise themselves with the scent of a fox so that they don't riot after other animals, and to give them a taste of fox blood.
To disperse foxcubs over a wider area (especially from coverts that can't be visited during the foxhunting season due to their position near roads, railways etc) so there will be foxes in most coverts to provide better sport, to persuade cubs that safety lies in not going to ground but in fleeing across country - thus providing a good chase.
To reduce fox numbers.

Cub hunts take place early morning or evening when the scent is at its best. Followers don't normally attend unless invited by the Master. Hounds will go straight to the covert from the kennels and the Field willusually wear normal hacking gear. Cubbing is sometimes done on foot rather than on horseback.

During late July, August and September, followers will be positioned round the perimeter of the wood to keep both the cubs and the hounds in the wood (called 'holding up'). A cub seen exiting will be frightened back. The idea is to train the young hounds to hunt in thick covert, havingto use their noses and listen to and follow the cries of the older hounds.

During October, runs in the open will be enocuraged so young hounds can learn to hunt on the right line, see a fox and know what it looks like. Therefore, earths may be blocked up. By now, the cubs will be 4 - 7 months old and will know by the time fox hunting starts that the sound of the horn is a signal to run.

Cubbing Tactics

Most hunts know which woods harbour cubs. Coverts are owned by hunt supporters and are often carefully protected so that by the time cub hunting starts, the hunt has all the information it needs for which woods to hunt and plenty of young foxes to kill. Since foxes tend to breed in the same coverts from generation to generation, keep records of which woods are hunted during cubbing and use this information. Pre-meet work is vital during cubbing.

During early-season cubbing, it is important to try horn-blowing and calling to confuse the new hounds, and try to compete with the Huntsman for control. Call out the hounds from a covert that is not pre-sprayed. For later season cubbing, use fox-hunting tactics. Kennel watches are usually necessary for cubbing as meets are not advertised. Cubbing normally takes place 3 - 6 times a week, varying from hunt to hunt. Kennel watches have been known to dissuade some hunts from going out cubbing.

Some Important Notes About Cub Hunt Sabbing

NEVER stand around the wood making a noise as this could scare the fox back into the hounds - you will be another hunt supporter.
The only noise to be made is by the horn-blower or the person with the gizmo. Calling hounds by voice call should only be done by one perosn and only when the majority of the pack is in sight.
The rest of the sabs should stay well back from the wood in tightly-bunched groups and wait in case a fox bolts from the wood. These sabs can then intercept the hounds (after remaining perfectly still and quiet while the fox passes). If you stand aorund the covert widely spread out and making a noise you will be blocking any potential escape route for the fox and will scare it back into the wood.
It may be wise to send 1 or 2 sabs into the wood with sprays and whips. These sabs can crouch down and intervene between the fox and hounds if needed. This should only be done by experiencedsabs because of the danger of making the fox turn back to the hounds.

Drawing notes, (encouraging the hounds to find a fox)	4 short notes
On, on notes (encouraging the hounds to chase the fox)	A series of staccato notes
Calling out (fox not found)	Usually the same as the draw call but played 2 or 3 times with additional notes at the end
The dig/kill call	These 2 vcan sometimes be confused as they're not heard as often as the other notes and differ from hunt to hunt. They usually comprise 3 long tremulating notes
To collect the hounds	Long, winding call
To call hounds out of a wood	Use the calling-out notes
To slow the pack down	Blow long notes. This will also draw the hounds out of the wood
To split the pack in two	2 hornblowers should operate at either side of the hounds, but don't blow at the same time
To make the hounds follow a false scent or hunt on past the scent of a fox	Use the on, on call. This call can also be used with the gizmo