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Andalusia

 

September 2000 saw me driving around Southern Spain exploring the territory of Andalusia.

Brian and Derek, who you will know if you have seen the pages on my trips to the Canaries, have bought a villa in Benalmadena village, so I decided to pay them a visit. My friend Jon also joined me for part of my initial trip.

For the first few nights I stayed at the delightful Hotel Miami on the edge of Torremolinos, in the district of La Carihuela. This used to be the holiday villa of Picasso's cousin and is stacked full of antiques. Bookings can be made direct with the hotel. My car hire was also arranged in advance on-line through Holiday Autos; on subsequent visits I found that Carjet could be slightly cheaper.

The coastal area, not surprisingly, is still experiencing a building boom, so I headed inland, armed with a copy of the Rough Guide to Andalusia. You only have to drive a short distance inland to discover the most delightful Spanish villages. Here you can wander around and enjoy a fabulous meal very cheaply, before driving back to the coast for the nightlife of Torremolinos, Fuengirola and Marbella.

In between days spent lazing around on the gay beach at Cabo Pino, just East of Marbella, and nights in the Parthenon Bar, Torremolinos, I explored Ronda and the mountains, Granada and finally, Seville.

The roads are good, well maintained and largely - except around the towns - empty.

Heading North out of Malaga brought us to the village of Carratraca, birthplace of Antonio Banderas. Here we were promised the sulphur baths popular in the 18th Century, but unfortunately the restoration programme was over running and the baths were a building site. Leaving Carratracca behind, we set off for lunch at the El Chorro Gorge, through mountain passes past cool, inviting lakes.

After lunch, we headed West for the town of Ronda, a popular destination for tourists. It is not only the birthplace of modern bullfighting, but also is known for it's old town perched high on a limestone pillar above a deep ravine.

About 90 minutes drive from Torremolinos is Granada - the fabulous Moorish city and home of the world famous Alhambra Palace.

Granada does not only have the Alhambra though - it has a beautiful Cathedral and Chapel Royal, containing the tombs of King Fernando and Queen Isabel, and beautiful squares. For a reasonably priced lunch head for the area around the flower market, the Plaza Bib Rambla, near the Cathedral.

But most visitors come to Granada to see the Alhambra, set on a hill overlooking the town. Admission tickets cost 1,000 pesetas and only 8,600 are available each day. These can be obtained from any branch of the BBV Bank in Spain, or from the branch in Granada. It's worth doing this as it's a long walk up the hill to find all the tickets have been sold. Admission to part of the palace is by a timed entry, clearly marked on the ticket. Details of admissions, opening hours, etc can be obtained from the Alhambra web site.

Parking is a nightmare in Granada - as in most Spanish cities. I parked in one of the underground car parks in the Puerto Real in the centre of the city. It's only a few minutes from the Cathedral and the BBV Bank for tickets for the Alhambra.

A longer drive from Torremolinos (2.5 hours) is the romantic city of Seville. There was so much to see in Seville and explore that I have to return at some point soon.

Parking again was a nightmare, but I found space in the underground car park behind the Bull Ring, under the produce market.

Seville was the setting for Bizet's opera, Carmen. Carmen worked at the Old Tobacco Factory, which now forms part of the University, and is the second largest building in Spain. A statue of Carmen is situated by the river opposite the bullring.

The focus for the town, and where most tourists head for, is the area around the Cathedral. The Giralda Tower, bell-tower of the cathedral dominates the skyline.

The cathedral is the largest church in the World - if measured in cubic capacity (St Peter's, Rome and St Paul's, London beat it on square footage) - and is a Gothic masterpiece. It contains amongst other treasures the tomb of Christopher Columbus. A climb up the bell tower is well worth the effort to look across the city.

Located near the Cathedral is the Alcazar Palace, which is still used by the Spanish Royal family at times. The palace is open to visitors (admission 700 pesetas) and contains similar Moorish decoration to the Alhambra in Granada.

If you're feeling homesick, and missing England, whilst visiting Seville, head for Plaza de Victoria, where the Seville branch of Marks and Spencer can be found, complete with foodhall! I usually spend a small fortune, though, in Zara.

To be honest, though, you probably won't be homesick at all.

 

I wasn’t and have returned regularly since this initial visit.