Trial fitting the column showed up a number of minor problems all of which were relatively easy to solve.

1. The bracket on the column did not line up with the bracket on the scuttle. The column appeared to be too long and, if I wanted the steering wheel to be parallel with the shuttle, was off center. I resolved this by cutting about 1/2" off the spline on the end of the column and making up a little adapter plate so the column could be mounted about 1/4" back and offset about 1" to the left. Now the steering wheel is (almost!) parallel with the scuttle and all the bits fit together and end up at the right place for the steering rack.
2. The tube and plate arrangement supplied by Marlin to close of the hole where the column passes through the bulkhead appeared to be made at the wrong angle. I thought I was going to have to make another one but Nick had the same problem and resolved it by cutting four slots in the tube allowing the it to bend enough to take up the difference in angle. (Nit easy to explain but look at the pics and you will see what I mean)
3. The UJ on the steering column extension fouled on the hole through the front crossmember - simply solved with a file and hacksaw.

The rear suspension required some fettling before it fitted OK.

1. I had to grind away a couple of mm from the inside face of the carriers for the rubber bushes on each trailing arm before they were a comfortable fit in the brackets on the chassis.
2. The holes for the bolt for the outside bush didn't line up to well. I hate making holes bigger - in the end I ground down the end of an old mounting bolt and used this as a drift. The rubber bushes have taken up the miss-alignment - not really the best of solutions but the alternative was to weld up and redrill the holes. HINT. You can grind a very slight taper on the end on the trailing arm bolts (2 threads max) to help them line up as they are tapped in. Don't take any more off than you have to though as they are almost exactly the right length and if you grind away too much the nut won't lock. Also note that these bolts have a shoulder at the head end so don't be tempted to replace them with ordinary ht bolts!
3. With the suspension arms in place the bump stops don't align - I need to talk to Mark about this. See picture in gallery.
4. Don't forget to grind the top rib of the dif housing!
5. I had my springs made by a local spring maker - didn't fancy the Marlin suggestion of collapsing a couple of coils by heating them to cherry red.

Handbrake

1. You need to make a small bracket to support the rear of the handbrake. Make sure that the handbrake is mounted as low as possible at the back so that the cables clear the underside of the prop tunnel.
2. The handbrake cables need to be shortened. The best way to cut then is with a very sharp cold chisel. I haven't worked out how to terminate the cables yet so that they are still adjustable. Whatever I do the cable needs to be fed through the Marlin supplied BEFORE the ends are terminated.
3. Assembling the rear brake shoes, adjuster and actuator on to the backplates is a bit of a b*gger - persevere and you will get there in the end...
4. In the end I made new ends for the handbrake cables from some 6mm steel rod. I threaded at one end and drilled a hole down the middle (3mm) at the other to take the handbrake cable. I tried all sorts of ways to successful crimp the ends to the cables but couldn't get a satisfactory hold. In the end I silver soldered them in. See below.

Pretty straightforward - but would have been easier had Marlin not forgot to modify the steering rack! Anyway I sent it back to them and they quickly corrected this oversight. Strange that the two track rod ends are odd.

1. The rubber bushes were difficult to get into the eyes for the ends of the wishbones - my hint here is to use plenty of Vaseline!
2. I found that some of the powder coating had found its way into the thread for the balljoint on the lower wishbone. This needs to be squeaky clean as it is a very fine thread and (potentially) easy to cross thread. So check it before you try to screw in the balljoint and clean it out if necessary.

1. Make new handbrake cable ends from 6mm steel rod about the same length as the old ends (70mm but dimensions from memory so check if you are doing it this way)
2. Cut a thread for about 45mm on one end.
3. Drill a hole through the centre at the other end for about 25mm. I am lucky to have a small pillar drill so this wasn't too difficult.
4. Drill a hole at right angles to meet up with the hole up the centre about 20mm from the end.
5. Next you need to tin the ends of the cables. You must be careful not to overheat them as they will get brittle. I heated up some silver solder using a blowtorch 'till it was molten in a stainless steel spoon, brushed some flux on the ends of the cable and dipped them into the molten solder. You need to keep the heat on the spoon while doing this or the solder will solidify. If you get it right the solder sucks up the cable with having to heat it directly.
6. Put plenty of flux up the hole on the new cable end and push the tinned cable up it. Heat it with the blowtorch and when it gets to solder melting temperature feed some more solder down the second hole that you drilled.
7. Wait till it cools down before you touch it!

It's actually much more simple than it sounds and produces a very strong join that you needn't worry about giving way at the most inconvenient time (Like when you are parked on a hill...)

Don't use ordinary plummers or electricians solder - it isn't stong enough and doesn't adhere well to steel.

I decided to make my own brake pipes if only to use the flaring tool I had bought 20 years ago and never used! Anyway I found making the brake pipes quite easy but had some problems with the fittings. I mounted all the brake pipes with rubber lined metal P clips.

I didn't like the run that the length of the rear, Marlin supplied, flexies took so I contacted PEL and they remade them to the length I wanted them for free! The rear trailing arms can move up and down as much as they like without the flexies touching anything.

I found that there seem to be more than one type of male pipe fitting. The brass ones are generally bot threaded all the way to the end. This proved to be a problem when they are screwed into a female fitting with not much depth - for example the three way union - where they only screwed in by about two threads worth. In the end i used male fittings that were threaded all the way to the end - problem solved.

I was determined to use the BMW wiring loom as -
A. it was free!
B. it was correctly fused and "relayed"
C. it had all the connections to the engine loom built in.
After a week or so of unravelling and investigation I sorted out what everything was and removed the unwanted bits. To make things easier I decided, in the end, to chop the loom into three bits, one containing the fuse box and all the dash wiring, another to go to the front of the car and the third to go to the rear. This made things a lot easier.
The fuse box is recessed into a hole in the top of the passenger footwell handily putting the dash wiring in the car and the engine loom and battery connections in the engine compartment and - yes - it does clear the line of the bonnet - just!