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Marjorie M. Snipes
"The
most important aspect of anthropological fieldwork is the perspective of
longue durée." said my
professor one day long ago, as his class lecture spilled into the hall of the
department. He was admonishing us to take a focused scientific approach to the
data that we were going to collect in the field and to look for trends and
tendencies that would allow for hypotheses and predictions of human actions
instead of mere descriptions. I listened intently that day and resolved to be a
scientist of the first order. My fieldwork would be impeccably scientific and I
would work to establish a pattern of social structure to explain how and why
there were cultural differences between us and them. Since
that time, I have worked in a small Andean community in northwestern Argentina
for more than 13 years, and during those years there have been numerous changes.
Births, deaths, migrations, and shifts in the existing social structure have
created a complexion of change that has manifested some degree of pattern in
movement. But then one day, something out of the ordinary occurred. That day,
totally unexpected, there was a powerful change in the sequence of anticipated
events, an occasion that forever changed who they were and who they are today.
It was on that day that the first "musical stereo system" was brought into the
community. In
I99I, when I first met him, Héctor worked as a caretaker at the local boarding
school, where students live from mid-day Sunday until mid-day Friday, as
distances to and from the school can be as much as an eight-hour hike each way.
Because he was a federal employee, Héctor was paid with money and not exchange
goods, even though there was neither a store nor a cash economy in the community
at that time. Every month he would collect his pay from the Director of the
school and put it aside, calmly biding time until he could travel to the city to
spend his earnings. This engendered a lot of excitement, and surely some envy,
from other village folk who spent many evening hours advising Héctor on his
upcoming expenditures and speculating what he really might do. Since people were
not at all familiar with financial cost, this led to amazing stories, some even
betting that Héctor would take his pay and buy a house in a very wealthy area of
Buenos Aires and leave them forever. At
the end of I99I, with the approaching holidays and rainy season, which would cut
the community off from the main road for three months. Héctor at last traveled
to the cit, where there was a large and notorious contraband market filled with
all kinds of Western clothing, shoes, electronic equipment, and furniture. He
was gone for a week, and in his absence, everyone discussed endlessly how Héctor
might be spending his fortune. It seemed the day for his return would never
come. Men would congregate in fields to discuss the probability that he would
ever return, and women would stop mid-sentence during an interview with me, to
ask what I thought he might be doing in the city at that moment. At the time I
was as eager as they for him to return, because I wanted daily life to return to
its patterned sequences. Well,
his arrival day came, and several community members gathered at the school to
wait for him. It was late afternoon when a young woman finally spotted the hired
truck beginning the 45-minute descent into the valley. As the vehicle traversed
one curve alter the other, the word spread quickly that Héctor was arriving, and
more people joined the group. When, at last, the truck rounded the last hairpin
curve and careened into the school ground, the excitement was so intense that
the crowd was virtually breathless with expectation and anxiety. Everyone
pressed forward to get a first glimpse of Héctor and the long-awaited
surprise. Héctor
opened the door of the truck and there were no greetings from either side.
Everyone waited. He slowly climbed down from the truck in a very solemn manner,
evoking a heavy and weighted moment. He asked everyone to step back. With great
care, he lowered a large box which was tied closed with a rope. In respectful
and reverent tones, I began to hear some murmuring within the crowd about the
great size and weight of this box, anticipation building. After a sufficient
interval to regain his composure, Héctor untied the rope and opened up the box,
choosing one of the community elders to help him lift the object. Everyone
leaned forward expectantly and gasped when out came a very large "musical stereo
system." It
was immediately obvious that this was no ordinary stereo system: it had two
incredibly large speakers, a turntable, an AM/FM radio, a six-disc CD player,
and a double tape deck attached. It was one of the largest and most complete
stereo systems that I have ever seen. Everyone was exclaiming its beauty and
marveling over the features, as I struggled to make sense of this: there was no
electricity in the community, no one had ever seen a CD. only one old man down
at the river owned records (and those were from an old Victrola), and Héctor
owned two cassette tapes. But I also noticed that I was the only one who acted
puzzled. Everyone else seemed quite satisfied solely with Héctor's ownership of
this remarkable stereo system. After
some of the excitement began to die down and Héctor had told the story of how he
purchased this stereo system and how he traveled over such a long distance with
such a fine piece of equipment, one man, a respected community elder who had
begun to feel impatient with the attention that Héctor continued to get, asked
him to ''fire it up." We all quieted down and watched him, again mesmerized with
anticipation. He then unloaded a smaller box that I had not noticed previously
and took out a car battery with a ''lifetime warranty" advertised on the plastic
enclosure. Methodically, with purposeful care. he stretched out the long wires
on the brand new stereo system and slowly stripped them. First positive, then
negative, he attached the naked wires to the battery. Immediately, with no
forewarning, the radio began to crackle with music from some faraway
station. The crowd started squealing with delight, saying that this was the
finest radio they had ever heard! The mood shifted to elation and boisterous
excitement, although Héctor remained aloof from his neighbors. After a few
minutes of failing to capture a clear station, surrounded by Andean peaks in
excess of 3500 meters. Héctor calmly pulled out one of his two cassettes and
turned the volume of that spectacular musical stereo system up to its most
capacitated decibel. That was the day that mountain music was
born. Since
that day, every afternoon when he finishes work. Héctor puts on a cassette (he
now has a collection of I7 cassettes of Andean folk music) and lets the speakers
blare out. I have heard the noise while as much as two hours from the school,
echoes reverberating off the snow-covered peaks. Héctor's presence and
participation has become vital at all celebrations in the community: he gladly
loads up the hallowed stereo system on two donkeys to collaborate in all festive
occasions. Since that time. Héctor has married
well, produced six children, and become the unofficial spokesperson for the
community. He was even briefly considered for a provincial political post in the
regional district. His meteoric rise in social status and influence, so clearly
tied to his very wise investment in such an outstanding musical stereo system,
serves to remind me often of the arbitrariness and idiosyncrasy of change, and
the probable roots of so many of life's most hallowed structures. | |