• Surf culture

• Surfing Gear

Surfboards
Surfboard Design
Surfboard Construction
Modern Types of Surfboard
Surfboard wax
Surfboard Leash
Wetsuits
Rash Vest

• Surfing Guide

Learning to Surf
Choose a Break to Learn to Surf
Mark the Balance Point
Pearling
Corking
How to Paddle Out
How to Paddle Into the Surfing Lineup
How to sit on the Board
How to stand on the Board
How to Catch the wave
How to takeoff
How to Turn
How to Cutback
How to Bury Your Rail on a Cutback
How to Duck Dive
Surfing small mushy slop
How to wipe out safely
Surf Safety
Surfing Etiquette
localism

• Common Surfing Slang

Surf culture

Culture surrounding the sport of surfing, originating during the 1950s and 1960s but which continues to this day. Surf culture is multifaceted. Today surf culture involves the constant search for waves, whether locally or internationally as well as the multiple ways in which surfing is part of one's life. This may include clothing brands and styles, music preferences, literature, films, language, etc. In addition, localism or territorialism is a huge part of surf culture. Localism is the practice by which surfers are involved in verbal or physical threats or abuse to deter people from surfing at certain surf spots. This is backed by the belief that fewer people equals more waves per surfer. Today surfers come from all walks of life from every coastline where waves break in the world, making them impossible to stereotype or generalize.

If there is one fair generalisation concerning the sport, it is the fanatical enthusiasm of its devotees. One famous Australian surfer, Nat Young, once tried to register the sport as a religion, but to no avail. Surfing Magazine, founded in the 1960s when surfing had gained popularity with teenagers, used to say that if they were hard at work and someone yelled "Surf's up!" the office would suddenly be empty. Other aspects of the culture include the woodie, bikinis and other beach wear, such as boardshorts or baggies. Surfers developed the skateboard to be able to "surf" on land; the number of boardsports has since grown. Also, surfing has its own slang, which coincides with Valspeak. Words like "tubular", "gnarly" are associated with both.

A non-competitive adventure activity involving riding the biggest waves possible (known as "rhino hunting") is also popular with some surfers. A practice popularized in the 1990s has seen big wave surfing revolutionized, as surfers use personal watercraft to tow them out to a position where they can catch previously unrideable waves These waves were previously unrideable due to the speed at which they travel. Some waves reach speeds of over 60 km/h; personal watercraft enable surfers to reach the speed of the wave thereby making them rideable. Personal watercraft only allow surfers to ride these waves but allow them to survive wipeouts. In many instances surfers would not survive the battering of the "sets" (groups of waves together) without drowning. This spectacular activity is extremely popular with television crews, but because such waves rarely occur in heavily populated regions, and usually only a very long way out to sea on outer reefs, few spectators see such events directly.

Many surfers are seen as territorial, hence the expression "locals only"; or as the rock group The Surf Punks put it, "my beach, my wave, my girl, so fuck you!". The expression "Surf Nazi" appeared in the 1980s to describe territorial and authoritarian surfers. Other surfers, however, known as "soul surfers", hold less aggressive views towards others. These surfers see surfing as more than a sport; it is an opportunity to harness the waves in and to relax and forget about their daily routines. This type of surfing has seen a rise in popularity recently.

Global warming, environmental damage, and increasing riparian development may continue to increase pressure on the sport. Global warming may produce bigger waves...or a return, through altering ocean currents, to a new ice age. Oil spills and toxic algae growth can threaten surfing regions. And, many wealthy homeowners have tried to prevent free access to beaches in violation of English and American common law traditions, in which "the strand" is not private property.

Suring Gear

Surfing can be done on various pieces of equipment, including surfboards, bodyboards, wave skis, kneeboards and surf mat. Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were generally quite large and heavy (often up to 12 feet long and 100 pounds). Lighter balsa wood surfboards (first made in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were a significant improvement, not only in portability, but also in increasing maneuverability on the wave.

Most modern surfboards are made of polyurethane foam (with one or more wooden strips or "stringers"), fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. An emerging surf technology is an epoxy surfboard, which are stronger and lighter than traditional fiberglass.

Equipment used in surfing includes a leash (to keep a surfer's board from washing to shore after a "wipeout", and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax and/or traction pads (to keep a surfers feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and "fins" (also known as "skegs") which can either be permanently attached ("glassed-on") or interchangeable. In warmer climates swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures.

There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and designs in use today. Modern longboards, generally 9 to 10 feet in length, are remeniscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from all the modern innovations of surfboard shaping and fin design.

The modern shortboard began its life in the late 1960s evolving up to today's common "thruster" style shortboard, a three fin design, usually around 6 feet in length.

Midsize boards, often called funboards are of a size somewhere in between a shortboard and longboard, with various shapes.

There are also various niche styles, such as the "Egg", a longboard-style short board, the "Fish", a short and wide board with a split tail and four fins, and the "Gun", a long and pointed board specifically designed for big waves.

Surfboards

Originally made of wood or balsa the first surfboards were often over 15 feet in length and extremely heavy. The major advances over the years were the addition of one or more fins on the bottom rear of the board to improve directional stability and a change of materials.

Modern surfboards are made of polyurethane or polystyrene foam covered with layers of fibreglass cloth and polyester or epoxy resin. The end result is a light and strong surfboard that is buoyant and maneuverable. A few specialty surfboards are made out of hollow carbon fiber or aluminum for added lightness.

Long-boards as the name suggests are longer (9+ft), and also thicker, wider and with a more rounded nose than a short-board. Short-boards are shorter (5-7ft), thinner, and have a more pointed nose. They are not as wide as long-boards and are typically more maneuverable. Other variants include guns, mini-mals, fish, eggs, and tow-ins.

Surfboard Design

In order to discuss board design, it is helpful to have basic knowledge of the vocabulary used to reference each part of the board. Here is a labeled diagram of a surfboard:

Modern Types of Surfboard

Surfboard wax

Surfboard wax (also known as surfwax or sex wax) is a formulation of natural and synthetic wax for application to the deck of a surfboard, bodyboard, or skimboard, to keep the surfer from slipping off the board when paddling out or riding a wave.

Surfboard wax is generally composed of a mixture of paraffin and beeswax, often with exotic scents like coconut. Many different commercial brands and varieties of surfboard wax may be found at a surf shop, optimized for different climates and water temperatures.

It is common for surfboard wax brands to carry somewhat risqué names such as Granny's Sex Wax, Mr. Zog's Sex Wax, Sticky bumps, and Shimmie's Surf Wax.

Appling the Wax

Surfboard wax is applied to the surfboard by rubbing the wax on, rubbing it from rail to rail (side to side), and nose to tail (front to back). After doing several layers in each direction in an area protected from the sun to avoid the melting of the wax, a final coat is applied, rubbing the wax on in a circular motion. For best results surfboard wax is usually refrigerated before applying.

Removal of Wax

Removing the wax can be time consuming. A plastic scraper can be used to remove the wax in large chunks. To facilitate, a surfboard can be laid out in the sun for a while to soften the wax, or a blowdryer can be used to melt certain areas prior to removal. There is also a product by Mr. Zog's, called the "pickle." It is a squeezable, lime green cylinder with a cloth exterior. It is available at most surf shops, and is used by simply rubbing it over the board, after removing the majority of the wax with a plastic scraper; this will remove all of the old wax.

Maintaining the Grip

A special comb is used to maintain the grip of the wax. Usually, the comb is used to engrave criss-cut valleys into the wax to create a tackier surface.

Different Wax Temperatures

Most surfboard wax comes labeled with a water temperature range that it is ideal for. Wax used in water colder than its rating will become hard and not provide the stickiness needed to stay on the board, while wax used in water warmer than its rating may melt.

Some surfers layer different temperatures of wax to create the level of firmness and stickiness desired.

Surfboard Leash

A surfboard leash is the cord that attaches a surfboard to the surfer. It is used to keep a surfboard from being swept away by waves and prevent runaway boards from hitting other surfers and swimmers.

Modern surfboard leashes are comprised of a urethane cord. At one end of the cord, a band with a velcro strap attaches to the surfer's rear foot. At the opposite end of the cord, another velcro strap is tied to an attachment on the tail end of a surfboard.

History of the Leash

Prior to 1971, surfers who lost their boards on waves had to do a lot of swimming to retrieve them. Runaway boards were an inconvenience to the surfer, and a danger to other surfers. Potential damage also occurred when loose boards collided with rocks on the shore.

Santa Cruz resident Pat O'neill (son of the legendary Jack O'Neill, inventor of the O'Neill Wetsuit) is credited as the inventor of the surf leash. His first designs consisted of surgical cord attached to a board with a suction cup.

At the 1971 Malibu International surf competition, Pat offered leashes to his competitors in the event. In return, Pat was disqualified from the event for wearing his leash, dubbed a "kook cord" by those at the event. Over the next year, the leash would become a ubiquitous tool in the surfing world.

Pat's father, Jack O'Neill, lost his left eye due to a surf leash. Specifically, the surgical tubing used in the early designs allowed the leash to stretch too far, and the surfboard would come flying back towards the surfer. Apparently, this is what happened to Jack. Subsequent cords were made with less stetchable materials such as bungee cords.
Today, surf cords are made with urethane.

Wetsuits

A modern wetsuit is mostly made from thin neoprene, which provides limited thermal protection for activities in cold water. It is usually lined with a nylon fabric to strengthen it and make it easy to put on and take off. Some newer wetsuits, usually marketed as "superflex," contain spandex in addition to neoprene to allow the suit to stretch (the panels of a wetsuit of this type typically contain 15-20% spandex). This counteracts neoprene's tendency to shrink with age; it also allows for some changes in the wearer's size without making the suit uncomfortable.

Wetsuits help to preserve body heat by trapping the water that has been warmed by body heat so it cannot escape and take the heat with it. Water has a very high thermal conductivity so heat is lost very quickly to the surrounding water. Without a wetsuit, the movement of water over skin would constantly whisk warmth away from the body. Wetsuits are made out of neoprene, a synthetic rubber that contains small bubbles of nitrogen gas when made for use as wetsuit material. Nitrogen gas has very low thermal conductivity, so it does not allow heat from the body (or the water trapped between the body and the wetsuit) to be lost to the water outside of the wetsuit. Some wetsuits of late have even begun to incorporate Merino wool and titanium fibres to add warmth characteristics, while keeping the thickness of the suit to a minimum. A wetsuit must have a snug fit to work efficiently; too loose a fit will allow water to escape from between the suit and the body, taking the body's heat with it. Flexible seals at the suit cuffs aid in the water retention. Neoprene is very buoyant, helping swimmers to better stay afloat, and for this reason divers need to calculate extra weight values based on the thickness of their suit to achieve neutral buoyancy underwater. The suit loses buoyancy and thermal protection as the bubbles in the neoprene are compressed at depth.

Wetsuit History

Traditionally, most say it was Jack O'Neill (businessman) who invented the wetsuit and started using neoprene, which he found lining the floor of an airliner. However, this is disputed by some aviation experts because neoprene and other rubbers are not fire retardant; therefore, they would not be found on any passenger aircraft. More importantly, it was not Jack, but his brother, Robert, who created the first designs for the company they later founded. Robert and Jack O'Neill went on to found the successful wetsuit manufacturing company called O'Neill. But Bob and Bill Meistrell, from Manhattan Beach, California, claim to have started experimenting with neoprene around 1953. Their company would later be named Body Glove.

Prevent Wet Suit Rash

• Buy a wetsuit with smooth material around the neck.
• Make sure your suit has taped seams in the armpit area.
• Wear a rash guard under your wetsuit.
• Rub Vaseline under irritated areas.
• Consider surfing bareback and avoiding wetsuits altogether.

Rash Vest

In surfing, a rash guard is worn for protection against the sun and against irritation from lying on the board paddling. Sunscreen has the disadvantage of getting on the board, making it slippery. In the past a rash guard was worn under a wetsuit to prevent chaffing, but wetsuits now are softer and lined so as to make that unnecessary. And currently is worn most often when the weather is warm enough to not need a wetsuit and is worn to prevent chafeing that occurs from the wax and to more importantly prevent the occurrence of painful nipple chafe. In these contexts often referred to as a wax guard.

Surfing Guide

Surfing begins with the surfer eyeing a rideable wave on the horizon and then matching its speed (by paddling or by tow-in). A common problem for beginners is not even being able to catch the wave in the first place, and one sign of a good surfer is being able to catch a difficult wave that other surfers can not.

Once the wave has started to carry the surfer forward, the surfer will then jump to his or her feet in what is termed a "pop-up" and proceeds to ride down the face of the wave, generally staying just ahead of the breaking part (white water) of the wave (in a place often referred to as "the pocket" or "the curl"). This is a difficult process in total, where often everything happens nearly simultaneously, making it hard for the uninitiated to follow the steps.

Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions and/or catch and ride challenging waves, but also by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as turning and carving. Some of the common turns have become recognizable tricks such as the "cutback" (turning back toward the breaking part of the wave), the "floater" (riding on the top of the breaking curl of the wave), and "off the lip" (banking off the top of the wave). A newer addition to surfing has been the progression of the "air" where a surfer is able to propel oneself off the wave and re-enter.

"Tube riding" is when a surfer maneuvers into a position where the wave curls over the top of him or her, forming a "tube" (or "barrel"), with the rider inside the hollow cylindrical portion of the wave. This difficult and sometimes dangerous procedure is arguably the most coveted and sought after goal in surfing.

"Hanging Ten" and "Hanging Five" are moves specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten, refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all ten of the surfer's toes off the edge. Hanging Five is having just one foot and five toes off.

Learning to Surf

Surfboards are made to float on the water. They have a natural center of gravity. If you were to lay any surfboard in a swimming pool, it would come to rest the same way every time.

What you want to do when you lay on a surf board is to have the board remain in the same relation to the water as it was without your weight on it, just a bit lower in the water.

Choose a Break to Learn to Surf

Choose a spot appropriate to your skill level. The place where you start surfing will influence your experience and learning curve.

Mark the Balance Point

A good tip is to find this balance point is to lay on your board then make a mark right at your chin. This spot is best made with a bit of wax or a magic marker. It is a reference point that enables you to put your chin on the same spot every time, so the board will react to your weight the same way every time.

Pearling

If the board's nose digs into the water it is called pearling and you must move the location of "your chin" back. To adjust, just slide back an inch from the mark and make a mental note.

Corking

Too much weigh in the back and the board will cork. This is a common mistake amongst beginners. You cannot catch a wave if you are corking your board. Move up an inch at a time till the board lies in the water naturally. This will provide you with the maximum hull speed and minimum drag from the water displacement that you are causing with your weight.

How to Paddle Out

Do not paddle with both arms simultaneously because this will cause the board to speed up and slow down in the water and you will not be able to maintain constant hull speed through the water. Always paddle with the crawl stroke...one arm and then the other alternatively. This will provide you with a constant speed so you can catch that wave.

Before you can really test out that surfboard, you've got to get out beyond the breaking waves, also known as "the soup" in surfer lingo.

1. Watch where other surfers get in the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out.
2. Strap your leash to the ankle you position at the back of your board when you're in your surfing stance, but hold the slack so you don't trip as you get into the water.
3. Wade into the water until you're thigh- or waist-deep and getting washed by the "soup."
4. Hold your board beside you, out of the water, and lift the tip over each successive wave while you wait for a lull between big waves.
5. Jump onto your board and start paddling freestyle, using your arms one at a time, when you think the "set," or the big waves, are momentarily through.
6. Paddle as fast as you can, especially if the next set looks big, and consider your three options when a wave breaks in front of you: duck dive, turtle roll or bail

How to Paddle Into the Surfing Lineup

The lineup is the invisible and unspoken hierarchy that exists at just about every surf break. Dealing with it properly can save you some unnecessary conflicts and bad vibes.

Ok, so now we know how to lie on the board and paddle the board. Now it's time to learn how to sit on the board. The first time try this you may be quite wobbly. The key to doing this well is being calm, or trying to be still. The less movement that you make, the easier you will find it is to do this. All the other skills of surfing will improve as you learn to be "calm" while surfing.

• Paddle fast out toward the wave you hope to catch.
• Sit up and straddle your board, putting more weight on the tail to bring the nose out of the water.
• Grab the side of your board's nose with your right hand if you're turning left, or with your left hand if you're turning right.
• Swing your board around by moving your legs below the knee in an eggbeater motion, and use your free hand to help spin and keep balance until you complete the turn.
• Release your upper legs from the board's rails and guide the board forward with your hands so you're lying down again.
• Do a frog kick with your legs and allow your board to shoot forward and rise out of the water like a cork.
• Paddle hard and make sure you're centered before you catch the wave.

How to stand on the Board

Now it's time to learn how to stand up. This is something you have been doing all your life. Lie on your chest, your head up, looking ahead. Put your hands on the board beside your shoulders, palms down like you were going to do a push up. Push your upper body up and at the same time sweep your feet under you. Make sure your feet are laying on the stringer, the line down the middle of the board. This move keeps your weight centered along the stringer.

When you come up, remember to keep low. If you stand erect you will fall. Assume a position of a sumo wrestler. Press your feet shoulder width apart and "grip the board in your feet", opposite of the way you would press your thighs together on a horse. Have your hands a bit higher than your waist and just in view of your vision. Always look up! If you look at your feet, you will fall down.

How to Catch the wave

The surf may be up, but you can't surf until you master this critical skill.

How to takeoff

The "takeoff" - catching the wave, standing up, gaining control and turning toward the shoulder of the wave - is the most critical skill in surfing. Once you're up, the rest is relatively easy. Here's how to take a stand.

How to Duck Dive

When you're paddling out, you'll need to learn how to duck dive, turtle roll or bail when you come to breaking waves.

Just Practice

Have someone watch you and have them critique your performance. Practice jumping up without making a sound on the floor. Calm and controlled is the smoothest way to approach this...so practice doing it quietly. If you have a surfboard, lay it on a large bed or in the sand and do this exercise. This is a way for you to judge your ability to be controlled.

Surf Safety:

Surfing Etiquette

The first standing surfer that is closest to the breaking wave has the right of way on that wave. Anyone paddling for that wave must quit. There are natural repercussions to not following this rule that can be very dangerous.

Most known surf spots have locals who surf that spot every day and some believe that they "own the beach". We all know that this is not the case. Having said that, the stranger, no matter their ability, should endeavor to show some respect for these social dinosaurs.

The surfer riding the wave has the right of way and the paddlers who are paddling out must yield. This means that the paddlers must paddle out of the way whenever possible, even if it is into the breaking wave or behind the rider. If you are paddling for a wave and someone is paddling out toward you, make eye contact with that person and indicate your intentional direction in reference to them. A nod in the direction you are going can work.

Golden Rules

1. Understand that the surfer closest to the breaking wave has the right-of-way.
2. Remember that if you're in the water and a surfer is riding a wave toward you, either paddle for the open shoulder of the wave so that the riding surfer passes well behind you or paddle into the already broken wave so that the rider passes in front of you.
3. Note that if you're sharing a wave with another surfer and the wave starts to break on the far side of the other surfer, he or she has the right-of-way and you must concede the wave.
4. Understand that if the wave peaks and breaks between the two of you, you can both ride the same wave because you will turn away from each other as you each head toward an unbroken shoulder of the wave.

localism

Unfortunately, localism plagues many of the world's best surf spots. Understanding what it is and why it exists can help you avoid any unnecessary trouble.

1. Avoid surfing new breaks alone, especially if it is a popular break.
2. Realize that localism is a result of overcrowding. Therefore, the more crowded a break is, the more tension there is likely to be in the water. Because locals feel at home at the break and feel invaded by unfamiliar faces, they sometimes react in a negative manner to newcomers.
3. Realize also that surfing is a traveling sport, and nobody is meant to surf only those waves closest to home. You have just as much right to surf a wave at someone else's local break as that person has to surf the waves near your house.
4. Practice surf etiquette in the lineup.
5. Watch the other surfers. If only a few people seem to be taking most of the waves, those people are most likely locals, familiar with the wave.
6. Mark the surfers who seem like troublemakers and egomaniacs. These surfers usually make a lot of noise, bitching about the crowd or pouting about their wave. They usually talk loud to other locals to let nonlocals know how "in" they are.
7. Give these arrogant surfers a little extra space. Don't drop in on their wave or paddle around them for the peak. Wait for them to take a wave, and then move to the peak position.
8. Be respectful, and concentrate on your surfing.
9. Remain calm if someone tries to come at you with irrational anger. Apologize if you did something wrong, but don't be a coward. Explain that you are only interested in surfing.
10. Take your next wave in, and call it a day if the vibe in the water begins to feel overly hostile.

Common Surfing Slang

Regular - Right foot on back of board
Goofy - Left foot on back of board
Take off - the start of a ride
Drop in - dropping into (engaging) the wave, most often as part of standing up
Dropped in on - taking off on a wave in front of someone else (considered inappropriate)
Snaking - paddeling around someone to get into the best position for a wave (in essense, stealing it)
Bottom turn - the first turn at the bottom of the wave
Shoulder - the unbroken part of the wave
Cutback - a turn cutting back toward the breaking part of the wave
Fade - dropping back into the wave
Over the falls - going over the top of the wave
Pump - an up/down carving movement that generates speed along a wave
Stall - slowing down from weight on the tail of the board or a hand in the water
Floater - riding up on the top of the breaking part of the wave
Hang-five/hang-ten - putting one or two feet respectively over the the nose of a longboard
Re-entry - hitting the lip vertically and re-rentering the wave in quick succession.
Switch-foot - riding opposite stance from what feels natural
Tube riding - riding inside the curl of a wave
Carve - turns (often accentuated)
Off the Top - a turn on the top of a wave, either sharp or carving
Snap - a quick, sharp turn of the top of a wave
Fins-free snap - a sharp turn where the fins slide off the top of the wave
Air/Aerial - airing off the top of the wave