Uckers
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Before Uckers became widespread in RN use. The most popular board game was Nine Men's Morris. Although in the Modern Navy, that game is very rarely met with, although occasionally you find some messes with engraved or homemade boards, it is on the whole less common than backgammon. A game which I have only seen in a shop bought form and then only in two messdecks and in the RN hospital at Haslar. Excepting one or two dedicated players will have their own 'travel' set.

Uckers - without any argument what so ever, is now acknowledged as the leading, (non sports-field) Royal Naval game. Holding this status since at least World War One, though rarely does it get a mentionin biographical sources before World War 2. -  It has been consistently played in the service for well over 100 years. Yet such is the way, that matelots, tha they never seem to record their own social history, very little can be found written, in respect to the games development. In consequence its origins are now lost in antiquity and we are left to piece together the tradition from rare notes and references.

Of strict importance in that process, is the presence of the multitude of 'rule sets' that existed between the World Wars. It was this variation that encouraged its popularity, and the variety of so many rule sets, in general usage, alone testifies to the games wide popularity and use. Thus provides a coincidental foundation and popularity that can be dated back over at least several earlier decades.

Up until the PTI branch. produced a standardised rule set, (an utter diservice to the RN's traditions, without making provision to record the allowed variations,  the development of the game, even in today's navy remained an active and fluid process, that closely reflected on the inovation and inventiveness of the Naval Matelot in general. It is from those earlier heritage, rule-sets, where the strength, character and popularity of the game, in the modern service takes root and there remains, despite efforts to the contrary, to be an immense diversity to its play. However with the constant shrinking in size of the RN, and the interferance of both the PT department and the Naval newspaper 'Navy News' to provide standard rules, that variation and heritage is gradually eroding. Although strong amongst these disciplines are the continued insistance of  WAFU's and the Submariners rule sets. Those to groups, adamantly stick to their own game.

In the olden days before WW2, every fleet (Home, China and Meditteranean etc. had its own particular rule set. Perhaps famed amongst these is the Far East set, which probably can make claim to posses the oldest, or earliest set of rules. One which with the demise of that station and Fleet, was adopted almost in its entority by the the youngest branch of the service, the Fleet Air Arm, who are now said to have stolen them.

If there is any hope left - May the Big PTOI man above, make a new decree for the rewrite of the sports manual to record all the sets of rules and label theirs as the approved 'international' competition set, unless other wise by decree, inter service challanges are issued, where as in days of old, it is the receipient or 'away team' who shall name their 'weapon', or choose the rule set to be played.

History - As mentioned the origins of the game, are essentially clouded in mystery - as sailors seldom recorded in their ditty books, what was after all common knowledge. - Yet evidence and logic shows, that Uckers is most certainly, based on the the ancient Indian game of Chauper, and perhaps because of childhood familiarity of Ludo, incorporates, the influence of the similar game of Pachisi.

A game first learnt, when on campaign by officers and men of the East Indian Company Armies and then introduced into the West at a later date. The familiarity with the game, probably passed via the Indian and Burmese naval forces, into the Royal Navy at about the time of the early Burmese Wars of the 1820's or more certainly during the second Burmese war of 1853. But certainly by the Indian Mutiny of 1857, where men of the Royal Navy spent much time, in the centre of India.

We can note, that  after the 'Mutiny' the game in its simplified form, was well known in England and America, and before long is called by the title of 'Ludo' (Latin for 'I Play'), whose rules are more akin to Pachisi and we find frequent mention being made after that date, in connection with Pub, or Public House Registrations etc.

The game with the title of Ludo, was first published in England in 1863. In that form, two to four persons play, without partnerships using one dice. In America a similar game too Ludo is known as Parcheesi, verifying the earlier connection, and can be dated from about 1867 whan a Mr John Hamilton sold the rights to a New York manufacturer in 1868. However it is well known that boards of similar construction, date well before this, in American folk collections of the 1850's. In essence Ludo is a linear game, on which the outcome, is determined by 'luck' of the thrown dice. Their is very little strategic input required from the players.

In contrast we have noted the RN assosiation with India, in the Burmese wars (1826 and later 1853), Chinese War (1842 also 1857-8), and very typically the Indian Mutiny (1857). Their is little question that it is from that time, (Mutiny) that the game was popularly admitted onto the RN messdeck and thereafter developed, to introduce a greater strategic element. A process, which was also responsible various rule sets, being diversly but simoultaneously developed, in seperate fleets that were for long periods out of conract with each other  This also illustrates why the  China or Far East set, is so different from others, that are used in the Atlantic and Home Fleets, where a closer relationshipwas present.

The essential difference between the RN game and the simpler Ludo, is the installed skills learnt to prevent your opponent completing the circuit to home. This interaction revolves around the blobs, and the ability of an opponent to control his dice so that he is able to HUCK the blob.

Huck - is an old Naval term, meaning to remove a difficult object by force or persistance and has a direct relationship to the term Chuck - which itself means to eject or throw an object, perhaps with some initial force or energy. - It is from this term used to describe the removal by effort, to off a blob, That the game was referred to as Huckers.
    Of course the traditional 'up board' of a frustrated opponent, has itsel a close association.

The propensity of sailors to drop their H's is well illustrated in the book 'Ballads of the Blue' illustrated elsewhere on this site.  - It is also sometimes said that the word Huck is related in usage to another nautical term Hog - which describes a rough flat scrubbing broom with which you scrub a ships bottom in order to 'huch' dirt and barnacles from the underside of the ship. To do this a Heck-boat or Hog-boat is used, which is a single masted boat or pink with a balancing trysail.

 

Proof

Unfortunately, all descriptions on how any game were played in the earlier decades, mostly reside in the memories of those who served and was seldom written down. Thus much of the information here is derived from oral discussion with ex-naval men, who have served from the turn of the century and with whom I have had the fortune to meet.

According to the Oxford English Dictionary the first published reference to the game was in 1946 by John Irving in his volume Royal Navalese. However when John wrote his book, he was describing the life he knew in the RN in the years preceeding.

Direct evidence is also taken from the preservation of early boards, in particular a six sided board of Victorian/Edwardian origins, seen by this writer,  had symbols such as crows and anchors in the home bases. As sailors in the RN, are consistently noted for their propensity to gamble, or in their eagerness to make wager in every form, vide Crown and Anchor etc, undoubtably that board had a dual purpose, not only for Uckers but Crown and Anchor as well. 

The earliest written record so far found, is in the diaries of EJF Fellows as preserved in the RN Museum, in 1934 he notes -

The Hucca boards are out again. A civillian would think the fellows mad if he could see some of the antics, whilst a game was in progress. Fellows play sitting on the floor and if by chance, the thrower has a chance of Hucking an opponent, he does a cerimonial shake. Twists the cup invarious ways and speaks to the dice, and thus when the dice are thrown 4 sterns are cocked into the air as 4 noses very nearly rub the dice.

This account provides us with the information, that four players are working the board, that a magical touch was needed to remove a blob and indeed that blobs were part of the rule set in use, whilst this also presents the only evidence so far known that a cup was used to hold the die or dice. All assets common to the playing of the game today. 

Vol 159 of 1937 p.267  gives a description of Grand Uckers -  " we keep ourselves amused by sleeping and childhood games like 'ukkers' a Naval Ludo, in wjich the wardroom was the inter-mess champions - This requires great skill with 6" dice in a bucket and a board in proportion. "

Please send in your amendments, variations and suggestions- Make sure you tell me what set we are talking about.

To play the game - You require one board (of which one corner is illustrated above). Four counters of each colour (16 in total), respectively placed on each Home base corner or Hole. Plus two, six sided dice and lots of skill.

Only the one common set of dice is used by both teams. They are thrown from the hand and never a cup. The exception to this rule, occurs on banyan or sports days, when a inter-ship or department competition is held. Large special dice are used and thrown from a dhoby bucket or dustbin. These special dice are always large and usually only one will fit into the bucket. Team members take the place of the counters and are often in coloured sports shirts or other fancy dress.

A game begins by each player throwing both dice to see who starts. The highest total starts, if there is a draw then the player with the highest individual dice starts. If this is still a draw all players throw again.

In every move the die must be thrown on to the board, any dice that moves a counter, completly from its square or bounces off the board will creates a 'bum throw' any dice that does not land flat but has an edge perhaps cocked up is a 'cocky die' . In both cases of a bum throw or cocky die the whole throw must be taken again. Three cocky dies or bum throws in a row - loose a turn - It is essential that on certain throws, and you will soon know which ones these are, that you give yourself time, to mentally prepare the throw, blow on your fingers and massage the hand to increase the heat in the dice, always call on the gods for special favour, or give a very timely shout as you throw to allow the dice to kick-over or give them enough addittional weight, so that they will rock onto a six or the precise number needed. It was scientificaly proven, aboard HMS Ark Royal, in 1976, when the catapaults were short of steam and didn't work, that a well applied shout or swear word, artistically and strategically applied, to a die throw; can change the density of the air in sufficient measure, so as to achieve the aim of the thrower. It is essential that a player must always have a good relationship with the dice if he is to win.

Each player wil throw the dice in turn and must if he is able to do so. use each dice to move a counter (a man, or a 'ucker) or carry out a move. Each counter must travel the actual number of squares represented by the dice, (you cannot split the number shown on an individual dice between two or more counters.) You do however throw two dice, and each individual die can be seperately applied to any counter. The highest number die must be applied first. however if you apply both die to steam a counter it must travel the full distance of th applied dice or die if both were used to move a single counter, before it can take any action. When you throw your dice and have one or more counters that can be moved, you must move. You cannot just move the value of one dice, and not the other, if by another particular move both die coud make legal moves.

All counters start from the home-base. They can only enter the field of play, by the throw of a six. Thus if your first throw comprises of the first dice, showing a six and the second dice, a four. If no other counters were in play, The player must move from Home to (position 1 (doorsetep) on the board - Dice one ) and then move it forwards by a count of four (dice 2). If however the player has other counters in play - he could elect to use either dice in lieu of either step noted above. So long as both dice are legally used. Always, the highest numbered dice must be moved first. (Thus with counters in the home he cannot elect to move a six on the board but then be unable to move the four, when by bringing out, an ucker from home it would allow the whole throw to be used.

If you throw a six but cannot move you still have your extra throw. You may if there is no chance whatsoever of moving a counter, volountary pass the dice on. (Such a condition exists if you may have all your counters stuck in a mixy blob, behind an opponents blob, (see below)

A six thrown at any time or in a sequence of sixes can be applied to getting a piece out or moving a piece or making a challange. But once a challange is made the proces continues till you finish it, this also ends your turn. Thus after making a challange you can no longer move any other counter.

Knocking Off - If you and visa versa your opponent comes to rest (lands) on a counter of the opposite player the affected counter is returned to home base, to await a six. You cannot with only one counter in play, throw a four and a one, move the counter four to send a counter home or other action and then move the same counter one, as any dice applied to a single counter must be applied as a total. If the total of the two dice is five ,the end of the move the counter would not rest on the square the opponents counter had occupied. If a six is thrown you move the counters and take or receive the consequences before taking your extra throw. You may in such circumstances land on an opponent and send him home, as that six throw gives you an extra turn then you may on the subsequent throw of the dice move the same counter again.

Moving - Two dice are thrown. Both dice must be used if possible, the highest one is applied first. If you are in a two person game, You canmove either colour with either die. If in a patnered four person game, you can only move your pieces with your throw, until you have no pieces left, when you can then move your partners counters. No direct consultation. - If you havepiece at home -base and one at the mouth of the shit shute, you cannot play the six to move the pece to the end triangle (6 paces) and not use the four, you must get the piece out twith the six ansd move the other four paces up he shit shute.

Blobs - When two or more counters of the same colour sit on each other, thus occupying a second square, this is called a Blob, your opponent cannot pass one of your blobs but you can move over your own blob, with counters of either colour. If you canot move another counter then you must break the blob.

Mixy Blob - When two or more counters of a one player, which are of different colours sit on each other, this is a 'mixy blob' - A mixy blob has no blocking powers and only ever has the powers of a single counter. Your opponent can pass a mixy blob, regardless of how many counters are blobbed up. An opponent can send a complete mixy blob home by landing on it with a single counter. Mixy blobs cannot make a challange against a proper blob.

If all your counters are in a mixy blob behind an opponents blob, there is no point in throwing the dice as you cannot do anything. Though some players may elect to do so to keep the dice 'hot'.

Challange rule - To remove a blob - place one or more of your counters of the same colour behind your opponents blob. When you next throw a six, you can elect to use it to attempt to remove a blob. If you do so then from that point on in the throw sequence you can not use any dice to do anything else or apply them to another counter. If you suceed then your turn is over irrespective of whether of the six thrown as this has been used to get him off..

If you fail to get him off, you stay where you are as you cannot move forward.

To Get Home-Port - Having taken a piece around the board, you must turn into the coloured strip that represents your own 'shit shute'. On no circumstances can you do a second cycle of the board. Only red pieces can go in the red shit shute etc. Red pieces can never pass the bottom of the Red shit shute and do another circuit of the board. To enter the 'home port',  or deadzone triangle at the top of a shit shute. An exact throw is needed on the dice. But both dice have to b applied if they can. But if the highest dice is unable to move a piece, it can be discarded. (usual with last piece home.) If however you go home on a six and cannot therefore move with the second die, and you have a piece in home base Priority must be given to releasing the piece from homebase.

To steam piece - To apply all your throws in a sequence by choice, to move a single counter around the board quickly is said to 'Steam Piece'.

Eight Pieces - Any person eight pieced in a formal challange - will normally have a fine to pay if 8 pieced This has a tendency to discourage inexperienced players getting above themselves.

Roll of Honour - Only classic wins or dramatic up boards are entered onto the bottom of the uckers board according to mess custom and only then by majority concensus.

Cheating - Timber shifting, leaving the game before the end without getting somebody to sit in, or upboarding, aways forfeits or ends the game.

Game 2 - (Four Players)
This game follows the same common rules as above, but now the two opposite facing players are a team.

No single player of the team can direct the play of the other, except in general terms as carried out by the crowd of onlookers and there are always some. Thus he can advise a move is foolhardy but not tell him which piece to move, but much body language and sucking of teeth is generally in force.

Each player, will throw the dice at his turn, and use those dice to move his own pieces.  You cannot move your opponents counters whilst yours are on the board.

In play your partner can pass over your pieces ot blobs, but if he lands his counter on yours, it rest on top to form a mixy blob. Your coresponding partner cannot send you back to base. The opposing team can move over a mixy blob as if it wasn't there, but if they land on it with a single counter the whole mixy' goes home. 

If a players counters are all safely gathered in-port(home). He still continues to throw, but  first he mustthrow a six to become active. Then on subsequent throws he can move his oposite partners counters, but you still have distinct moves and cannot converse in any great detail.

He must however work with his partner not against him, he cannot send his partners counters to home base, suck or blow them back.

Once in the 'shit shute' the coloured home passage you are safe from being landed on as only you can go up there. To get a counter home a perfect throw is needed.

Both dice must be used, the highest one first, if that cannot move the next highest is then tried.

No game is won until the teams eight counters are off the board. I have seen many a last ditch steam piece and suck backs win the day.

In the 1970's and 1980's this set of rules became known as the WAFU's rules. Possibly because, it was on the big ships (Aircraft Carriers) that most Fleet Air Arm bods could be found r they could be commonly sent to places like Changhi in Singapore.

The main rule difference, that designate the China Fleet Rules is the use of Blow back and Suck back. Most other rule sets of the time and to some extent today, particular the small-ship set, play a rule set, where once you're in your own 'shit shute' you are safe.

Wafu's (Western Air Fitters Union(Ucker) rules include The Basic rule set as given above

To Suck Back or remove a counter or blob up the shit shute. - Place a counter on the tail or botton of the shit shute at position 2 - On your next turn You declare your intention before you throw the dice by saying 'Suck Back the number of squares your opponents ucker stands away away. To succeed you must throw that number on either dice or in total to suck him back. As a bonus if he has two counters at two and three squares away, you need to throw the number you declare, thus if you say 'suck back two' and throw a two the counter up the shit shute is removed to home, should you also throw a number coresponding to the other unspecified counter in the shit shute that counter is also removed to home and you are called a 'Jammy bugger'

Whether your throw is successful or not, your counter moves on by one space. You do not use the second dice count anywhere else, except in sucking back. If two counters are up the shit shute and are blobbed then both items have to be removed at the same time i.e. a cry to 'Suck back 4' at a double blob means a doble 4 only must be thrown, to remove the blob. You canot reach over a blob to suck back a single counter. In suck back or blow back situations A six does not give a second turn. THerefore a triple blob cannot be removed.

If you have a blob on the bottom of the shitback and call a suckback, whatever the outcome, only one piece is moved on one step. Not the whole blob. Thus splitting the double. Mixy blobs cannot suck back.

To blow back - Is the opposite move to a suck back. - in this case if one counter sits at position two and you have one or more counters up the shit shute, you say 'blow back' the requisite number of squares. If you get it your opponent is sent home but your counter is moved back to replace it at the bottom or tail of the shute. If you fail then you move to the bottom of the shute, which statistically gives you a better chance of getting home. If there is a two counter blob at the bottom of the shute you must throw a double of the requisite number.

You can blow back a mixy blob as it only counts as a single counter, therefore irrespective of how many counters in a mixy blob only one dice number is needed.

If you throw a six it is not counted and does not award a second throw.

You cannot use the second dice to move another counter on the board except in blow back double. You do not add the count of the two die together.

The six Rule - Is amended so that a challange can be declared with any throw in a sequence and not just on the first throw as in the basic rules

The Steam Piece, Six Rule - Here instead of each throw in a sequence, allowing the player to moveg which ever counters he chooses. Now whichever counter is moved on the first six, subsequent throws must also be applied to those, unless he chooses to make a challange, which can apply to a different piece. If however a player cannot move that piece the number of squares shown on the die. He can then switch to another piece.

Gump rule - If you move a same colour double blob within 6 places of an opponents same colour double blob, and have no pieces in between. and a double is thrown on the dice which represents the number of squares needed, your blob can move forward as a single piece and Gump your opponents double blob (send both pieces home). This is like sinking him with a torpedo.

Snake Eyes (1) - At the start of the game (first throw) if a double one is thrown. All eight pieces are (Yours and your partners) blobbed on their respective door steps and are immediately in play.(You do not throw again) - Thanks to CCMEA Dave Lutwyche for this ammendment.

Snake Eyes(2) - (On some boats this rule is an and/or situation) - If at any stage of the game you have four pieces on home base. If a double 1 (snake eyes) is thrown.All four pieces are blobbed on the doorsep and are in play.(You do not throw again.)

Jungle Rules
The Jungle Rules at least by title, can be dated to about the mid 1960's and the Borneo campaign - Essentially they mean anything goes and were used by the Air Squadrons and the Marines

Six Rule - In throwing a six and elect to move a counter you cannot in the subsequent sequence convert to a challange or get a piece out.

Bounce Back - To play Jungle Rules immediately invokes Bounce Back, here you can elect to move any counter, but when meeting a barrier(such as a blob or the dead zone) unless you stop naturally before it or goin in exact number, you continue to move the dice count but immediately changes direction and travels in reverse. You must then call out, 'Bounce Back'. (Failure to do so returns your piece to home base.) If this move is as a result of a six throw, all subsequent of throwsin the sequence must be applied to that one counter. You continue moving in reverse until your turn is over or you meet another block such as a blobb or your own doorstep, when you reverse direction again.

Rule variation 1 - Six Rule Variation - Some messes will not allow you to make a challenge during a sequence of sixes unless it was stated on the first showing of a six.

Rule Variation 2 - Suck Back / Blow Back Variation - You declare this move before you throw, and there are no second turns, some messes allow a six to generate a second turn which can be used anywhere

Sea Scouts Rules
Equipment - As above but with the addittion of very small dice and a dice cup or shaker. Sea Scouts usually use a standard shop bought Ludo boards, but beware the exit from home on modern Ludo boards is in a different place which affects the play.

Sea Cadets, should note that when you are passed out oftraining a real matelots, you are noy only issued with your branch badges from slops, but are also issued with special hands, which with continued use and much practice, become intensly sensitive and able to keep the dice 'hot'. Such sensitivity is particularly necesary on small ships, so as to keep the dice on the board and in play, whilst the ships rolls from side to side.

To Play - Four players acting as individuals as they are still too skin to need a partner.

Rules - Read the book in the box called 'Ludo' and adopt the most basic of any rule set. - only use one dice. A piece can go home when a dice thrown is a greater or exact numner than the squares lefty to move it.

Advanced Rule 1(TS Mantle) - Can only go home when an exact number is thrown, You must learb to use the shout  'once at 'em', etc.

Advanced Rule 2- When Advanced Rule 1 learnt, introduce partner to the mixy blob rule.