Swarms

Swarms are, for some beekeepers, the highlight of the beekeeping year. For others, they are just a damned nuisance. For the majority of us, depending on several factors such as weather, distance, spare equipment and other commitments, it is usually somewhere in between. Whatever your personal view of it, swarming is a key part of the honey bees' existence - without the swarming instinct the honey bee would just not survive the predations of hunger, disease and other animals.

A swarm in flight gives an impression of great chaos as perhaps 25,000 bees circle in the air. Unfortunately, the makers of films have promoted the idea of killer bees and it is hardly surprising that the man in the street may see a swarm as aggressive and out to get him.

Once settled on a branch, bush or whatever, the cluster of bees, with the queen in there somewhere, appears much less threatening. The bees have tanked up with honey before leaving their old home and they are in an amiable mood. However, a swarm that has been clustered for a day or more may have become hungry and, particularly if it is raining and cold, may not welcome a close approach.

The first swarm of the year from a hive usually contains the old queen. This is termed a prime swarm and may weigh several pounds.

Subsequent swarms from the hive are technically casts, with a virgin queen, and become progressively smaller as each successive cast issues from the depleted colony.

If the swarm is hanging on a conveniently low branch, it is a simple matter to shake the bees into a box or the traditional skep. Swarms that have settled on a wire fence, a fence post or other rigid surface will require smoking, brushing or scooping up, or a combination of these methods. Collecting a swarm high up in a tree or on a building needs a careful assessment of the risks involved.

Once in a box the swarm can be taken to its new home as it is or, better still, transferred into a hive box. There are two main methods of achieving this: by dumping it directly into the hive, or by shaking the bees on to a cloth laid out in front of the hive entrance. The second is by far the most satisfying.

The great heap of bees soon shows a general drift up towards the hive entrance, and the bees move in with their queen. Some bees stand at the entrance, bottoms up and outwards, distributing a 'come home' scent with their wings.

The bees immediately begin adapting their new home to their own needs, building comb in which they will store honey and the queen will lay her eggs.

SUPPORT

If you need information, advice or help in dealing with a honey bee swarm...

• Oswestry area: E-mail or telephone John on 01691 656 413, mobile 07854 632 070.
• Shrewsbury, Telford and Bridgenorth areas visit: www.shropshirebees.co.uk.
• For other areas visit the UK National Swarm Coordinators List for your local beekeeper.
• For a list of bee keepers' associations nationwide visit the British Beekeepers' Association's web site at www.bbka.org.uk.

BUMBLE BEES & WASPS

If your 'swarm' is of less than, say, 30 bees and they appear to have a nest in the ground or in gaps in a wall, they may well be a type of bumble bee and are generally harmless. If they are narrow-bodied and yellow & black striped they may be wasps.

If your bees are bumble bees you should do your best to protect them from any harm. Remember the nest will only be occupied until the end of summer, when the queens will disperse to hibernate and the rest will die. They will not return to the nest next year (more information). The same applies in general to wasps but, however, due to the greater numbers and aggressiveness of wasps you may consider destruction of the nest is necessary (go here for more information, or consult your local council).