If you are the new owner of an Exotic kitten, we welcome your to the world of the Exotic. You will soon discover what a delightful breed they are. As with all cats, there are certain
maintenance routines, which you will have to undertake to keep your Exotic in, tip top condition.

Daily Care
Feeding: For it's first full year, your kitten needs a greater amount of high-quality protein for growth than it will require in adulthood. At least 30 to 40 per cent of a kitten's diet should be protein. Select a kitten or feline growth formula designed to meet this extra need and follow the feeding guidelines laid down by the manufacturer. The breeder who sold you the kitten should also be able to offer advice on feeding your new kitten, as well as your vet. Kittens require more frequent feedings, but in smaller quantities, than adult cats. Adult cats need enough nutrients, fibre and protein to satisfy their appetites, yet prevent them from becoming obese, so choose a suitable food formulated for adult maintenance.

Senior cats that are less active often require fewer calories and so their diet may be altered to cater for this. At that stage you should consult your vet when considering a senior formula cat food. Your cat should have access to fresh water in a clean bowl at all times. Milk is not a substitute for water. Some adult cats, like humans, develop a lactose intolerance to milk and your cat will develop diarrhoea if they drink it.

Grooming: Despite being called the 'lazy man's Persian', Exotics do not require the thorough daily grooming commitment of their Persian relatives, but their coats are not entirely maintenance free. Exotics DO moult and shed coat, and do require on a regular basis. Regular groomingis a good practice, as it will remove loose, dead hair, and also aid in preventing hairballs. It also gives you the opportunity to check your pet for any parasites such as fleas.

Toilet: You should provide your kitten with a large litter tray, and be sure to keep the litter clean. Cats are reluctant to use dirty litter trays and so the best advice is to clean them of urine and faeces at least twice a day. The breeder who sold you your kitten should be able to recommend a suitable cat litter.

Eyes:Most cats will have an eye discharge that accumulates at the eye corners and needs to be wiped daily with some damp cotton wool or tissue.

Ears: You should check your Exotics ears on a weekly basis (if not more often). Use cotton wool to gently wipe away any dirt or wax visible. Never poke cotton wool buds into the ear canal as you could cause injury.

Teeth: Check your cats teeth and gums on a regular basis. Healthy gums are pink; diseased gums are red, tender and swollen. Consult your vet if you have any concerns.

Claws: Check your cats nails on a regular basis and trim them as well. Your vet can show you how to trim the claws. Neglected untrimmed claws can curve under and grow into the paw pad, causing a swelling and possibly abscess.

Quarterly
Worming: Your kitten should be wormed on a regular basis. We recommend your consultyour vet who will be able to advise you of a suitable product.

Annually
Vaccinations: Routine annual check-ups and vaccinations are important for your cat. There are many serious that can be prevented by using vaccinations. Ask your vet for advice about them.

Neutering
Your kitten should be neutered from age 6 months onwards. Un-neutered pets may develop some bad habits that you may not appreciate. Males may begin spraying and females will call for a mate and give you many sleepless nights. We recommend that you discuss neutering with your vet.

 

Topics covered.

Bathing ,Dental Hygiene, Eye Drainage, Grooming, Hair Knots High-Static Fur, Litterbox Problems, Microchips, Sanitary Clip, Shaving, Travel Tips,


Bathing
Make sure the cat's nails are trimmed before you get going. Start by brushing out the fur. Fill up the tub or basin with lukewarm water and place the cat inside (be gentle but firm). Wet down the cat completely (don't dunk the head!). Lather up the cat using shampoo that is specially formuated for cats (be sure to follow whatever directions are on the bottle). Completely rinse the cat making sure to remove all soapy residue. Dry out the cat's fur with a towel. Then use a stainless steel cat comb to brush out any tangles. As you blow dry, use low heat and continue to brush the cat's fur. When the cat is completely dry, you're all done!

Dental Hygiene

Like humans, cats can accumulate tartar on their teeth. Additionally, Persians can certainly develop gingivitis. Proper dental care is a good habit to start when your cat is at a young age. Talk to your vet about scheduling a regular teeth cleaning. You can also clean your cat's teeth in between vet visits. A good place to look for dental care products is your vet surgery.

Eye Drainage

"Eye gunk" is just another problem that Persians typically encounter. Due to the shape of the face and head (as well as other factors), Persians often develop sinus problems, such as eye drainage (this is more of an annoyance to the cat than anything). If the cat cannot clean off all of the substance, it falls upon the owner to do so. What works? Wipe a warm washcloth (no soap!) around the cat's eyes once in the morning and once at night.

For problems with staining around the eyes, consult your vet before using any cleansers or solutions. A solution recommended by many breeders that can be mixed up at home is an eighth of a teaspoon of boric acid and 8 ounces of water. Shake it up and wet the cotton ball. Be careful not to get too much boric acid because it can irritate your kitty's eyes. Optrex works wonders!!

Grooming

Persian hair care definitely can be troublesome. An owner should brush his/her Persian ideally once a day with a metal comb and bath them occasionally. A neglected coat results in knots. If the knots are in the beginning stages, you should be able to work them out with a metal comb and some detangling solution. You can purchase such solutions at pet stores and sometimes veterinary offices or groomers. Ask the salesperson which product he/she recommends. Talc is a must. A liberal sprinkling of talc, rubbed into the coat before grooming not only makes combing easier on you and the cat, but it also makes the coat look cleaner, soaks up grease, and fluffs the coat up more.

If your cat's knots are really severe, they will probably need to be cut/shaved off. (Note: this might leaving unattractive bald spots depending on the location of the knots.) Either make an appointment with a local groomer to have the knots shaved, or you can attempt to cut them out yourself if they are not close to the skin.

Now if your cat is badly knotted all over, you might want to consider getting him/her completely shaved - leaving the fur about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch for insulation. That way your cat will be able to grow a brand new coat, and you will be able to maintain it from the beginning.

Hair Knots

One thing to remember about Persians and other longhaired breeds is that they need to be brushed/groomed daily or every other day. The cat can only do so much on his/her own to maintain a healthy coat. So assistance from humans is usually necessary. Use a metal comb and a detangling solution to work out the knots. For knots that will not budge, you can use special grooming scissors. First slide the comb underneath the knot to prevent cutting the flesh. Then use the scissors to cut the knot off the top of the comb. If you feel the least bit uneasy about performing this task, do not hesitate to let a professional groomer handle it.

High-Static Fur

Static can be so troublesome in the fall and winter months of the year. Here are some handy suggestions for eliminating static cling in fur.
Before touching the cat, soak your hands in normal handcream, or talc.
Avoid plastic brushes or combs as well as wire slicker brushes. Instead, use metal and teflon coated.
During grooming, lay a wet paper towel on the fur.
By an anti-static spritz (sold in pet stores).
Lightly rub down the coat with a fragrance-free dryer sheet.

Litterbox Problems

Litterbox problems are not unusual for cats. There are many possible reasons. Your cat has decided that the litterbox is an unpleasant place to be. The box may not be clean enough, or he/she may have experienced painful urination or defection in the box. Your cat may have been startled by a noise while using the box or perhaps been "ambushed" while in the box by either another cat, a child, a dog, or even by you (if you were attempting to catch him/her for some reason). This kind of an aversion may require you to completely replace the litterbox so it no longer reminds your cat of unpleasant experiences. You may need to buy a new box, put it in a new location, and use a different type of litter. Remember to keep the box clean - scoop everyday, and completely change the litter anywhere from every three days to once a week.

If stress is involved, you may see other behavioral or physical changes as well, such as, weight loss, fearful behavior, or changes in eating or sleeping habits. Punishment is not a way to resolve a litterbox problem. First, check with your veterinarian. Health problems can cause litterbox problems.

It has been said that booby traps, placed in the location of the soiling, may discourage pets from repeating the behavior in the same location again. Tricks include two-sided carpet tape, which pets don't like to walk on, a string of empty soda cans, small alarms set off by motion, balloons set up to pop against a tack on the wall if bumped by the cat, and mouse traps set upside down provide a quick, safe scare to the cat. Pet owners should consult their veterinarian before setting up any traps.

Microchips

Have you ever thought about what you would do if your Persian got out of the house? These days, advances in technology can really improve the odds of finding your lost or stolen cat. Pet microchips are becoming increasingly popular around the world. In fact, they are required now in some countries.

The microchip consists of a tiny tube (the size of a large grain of rice) that is inserted under the skin always on the left side at shoulder height. The process is a very quick, cheap, and painless. It carries a number in it that will identify the owner by name and address. The database also contains other relevant information, such as the cat's health problems. For example, if your lost diabetic cat got picked up, her condition could be treated. All veteranarian offices and animal shelters are supposed to have a reading device for the microchip so animals can be easily identified.

Sanitary Clip

Let's be honest. Sometimes all of that long hair around your Persian's rear can cause trouble. You might notice "something" hanging on after a trip to the litterbox. A sanitary clip can save both you and your cat a lot of heartache.

It is easier to let a groomer or even a vet handle it for you. Since not all vets or groomers will be able or willing to do it, here are some basic instructions on how to do it yourself.

Start by grooming the cat thoroughly giving special attention to the rear end. Thus the fur gets untangled, and the cat gets used to you being busy in that area.
Use very sharp, small scissors. Start around the backside and lift the fur with a comb to avoid accidentally cutting into the skin. When you trim, leave the fur about 1/2 an inch long.
Then trim the back part of the upper-rear legs and the underside of the tail leaving about 3 or 4 inches in length.
To keep your cat "entertained" during the procedure, you can give him/her a toy to play with or have another person help prevent the cat from making unexpected movements.

Shaving

Shaving a Persian is quite common, but it's ultimately up to the owner. The "lion cut" is a very popular style. It can be nice for the Persian to grow out a fresh, new coat. And a shaved Persian is certainly easier to groom!

Travel Tips

Planning a road trip this summer? Here are some tips on how to make your kitty's experience in the car as easy as possible.
A little while before you depart, remove your cat's food and water. This will reduce the risk of an accident while on the road.
Line the carrier with baby nappies. It makes for a soft and comfortable ride and also helps in case of accidents. (Cover the nappies with a sheet or large towel. This will prevent the cat from clawing up the nappy and in turn ingesting pieces of it.) You could also try the new 'bed sheet' type .
Please watch the temperature in the car. If it gets too hot, it can be dangerous for your cat.
Always have water available.
Bring a small amount of food along if it's a long ride.
Put a familiar toy in the carrier with him/her.
Talk to your cat often. He/she is bound to be upset, and your voice will be soothing to him/her.
If possible, stop every hour or so for a few minutes. Take this time to remove your cat from the carrier and give him/her some reassurance and attention.

Articles Covered

Bladder Stones, Ear Wax Build Up, Feline Acne, Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP),Flea Problems, Polycystic Kidney Disease (PKD),Stud Tail,Teeth/Jaw Problems, Toxiplasmosis,

Bladder or Urinary Problems
Unfortunately, male cats are prone to developing bladder stones. To help prevent such occurrences, choose a food that is specially formulated- your vet can make recommendations. My male Himalayan has had great success with Science Diet. After having problems with stones, we started feeding him Science Diet. Knock on wood, he's never gotten them again, and it's been over 10 years.

Ear Wax Build Up

Unclean ears sometimes indicate an infection. If such a problem exists, it would be a good idea to let a vet examine your cat. He/she can determine if an infection or ear mites is present. If so, there are treatments that should clear up the problem. However, if your vet determines that it isn't a serious wax build up problem, you can use a commercial ear cleaner (or your vet will probably have one that you could use at home). Otherwise, I've heard that it's safe to mix up a homemade solution to clean out wax using half hydrogen peroxide and half water.

Feline Acne

Feline acne is not uncommon to Persians. It looks almost like flea dirt on the chin. You can cleanse the cat's chin a couple of times a week with a benzoyl peroxide shampoo helps. Some vets recommend antibiotics or corticosteroids.

And in case it's an allergy to plastic food bowls, try using ceramic or stainless steel bowls for the food and water.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

What is Feline Infectious Peritonitis, or FIP?
FIP is an auto immune disease like FELV and FIV, and it is caused by a type of coronavirus. There is no effective treatment or diagnostic test. FIP may be caused by a mutation of the Feline Enteric Coronavirus (FECV), but no one is sure at this point.

Which cats are at risk?
FIP usually occurs in kittens or young cats who have come in contact with others cats. It is said that households with only one cat are generally free of all coronaviruses. (More cats increases the risk for FIP.) It is a contagious disease (feces may contribute to transmission). So it would only stand to reason that catteries should educate themselves on FIP. It is very elusive - FIP can wipe out an entire cattery, while another cattery may loose one kitten and never see FIP again.

What are some of the symptoms?
Wet: abdomen/chest distended with fluid, enlarged lymph nodes, jaundice, mild anemia, and gastrointestinal
Dry: weight loss, depression, anemia, and fever as well as signs of kidney failure, pancreatic disease, liver failure, neurologic disease or ocular disease and inflammed organs

What can I do to prevent my cat from getting it?
There is a test that can detect a coronavirus, but it cannot tell you if you cat specifically has FIP. There are definitely many issues with this test. Definitely wash thoroughly with disinfecting agents anything that has come in contact with an infected cat.

How about a vaccine?
A vaccine does exist, but there is much disagreement around it. Apparently, there are still many questions about its effectiveness. Many vets will not advise the vaccine.

Flea Problems

Fleas can be a real nuisance, but you must use some kind of chemical-based treatment. To get the problem under control, make an appointment with a local groomer and ask them to give your cat a flea dip. You can give the cat a flea dip yourself if you prefer. Talk to your vet about a safe dip to use - many of the over-the-counter dips and shampoos are too strong for kittens, or even cats in general.

Be sure that all of your pets are treated simultaneously. Do not forget that fleas live in the carpet and ground/grass 80% of the time, so the environment must be treated at the same time as the kitty. Either buy a spray or bug bomber for the house. An alternative is to call a pest control company and let them professionally treat your home.

You may want to talk to your vet about anti-flea products, such as Program, Advantage, or Revolution. Typically, these products only have to be administered to your pet once a month. Such medications prevent fleas from laying eggs, so they cannot reproduce and spread. Be sure to keep a flea comb handy. It's a good idea to run the comb through your cat's hair frequently to inspect for flea dirt. (Some people keep their Persians shaved so they can look for flea eggs easily.)

Polycystic Kidney Disease (PKD)

Polycystic Kidney Disease is a genetic problem that is carried in lines of Persians (including Himalayans). It can be passed on to the kittens even if only 1 parent carries the gene. PKD is known to kill at 2-6 years of age by filling the kidneys with cysts, thus destroying the healthy kidney function.

PKD is creating a great deal of controversy among Persian breeders. The jury is still out as to the seriousness of this problem. In some cats it appears quite severe, but many others live normal healthy lives. Most responsible breeders will not breed two PKD-positive cats together. Some believe that no PKD-positive cats should be used in any breeding progam.

Ringworm

Ringworm is actually a fungal infection. Signs can include patches of hair loss and/or a red,scaley circle on the skin. Some cats can have ringworm and show no signs of it. If you have more than one cat, it will not matter which one has is - ringworm is so contagious that you will have to treat all of the animals anyway. Treatment usually lasts about 6-8 weeks, but you must stick with it. Here are some suggestions on how to treat the condition.

Shave the cat's fur and start him/her on an oral medication prescribed by the vet. (Supposedly, Sporodax is better than Fulvicin because it has fewer side effects. Talk to your vet.)
Infected areas can be treated topically (in both humans and cats) with Lamisil.
Using LymDyp, dip the cat twice a week.
Twice daily, sprinkle Lotrimin Athlete's Foot Powder and then vacuum the house (be sure to change the bag after each time).
Spray the house - furniture, carpets, walls, etc. - with a diluted clorox solution.
Using a black light, do a daily inspection.
Launder with an anti-fungal laundry additive and add plenty of bleach to the whites.
Using diluted clorox bleach in water (1 part chlorine bleach + 30 parts water), spray the cat's coat daily.

Stud Tail

Stud tail presents itself as a brown, sappy substance at the base of a cat's tail. Sometimes is has a foul odor. It occurs in males (usually due to stress) and is nothing serious. The secretion comes from a gland located at the base of the cat's tail. To treat it, first shave the area. This will allow the skin to breathe better. I've been told that wiping the area with alcohol may cause severe pain and burning if the skin is raw. Instead, try one of the many feline shampoos made exclusively for stud tail. They work very well.

Teeth/Jaw Problems

Unfortunately, Persians can have jaw and teeth problems. (This can happen with other breeds as well.) Some would say that such problems are mainly a result of Persian breeders striving to shorten the nose and retain the strong, deep jaw.

Crooked teeth might play havoc with a Persian's mouth. (Please note that sometimes crooked baby teeth may later be replaced by straight adult teeth.) Another potential problem is a protruding lower jaw. In other words, the bottom teeth are set further out than the top teeth. Yet another issue could be a twisting of the bottom jaw (the bottom jaw is not even against the top jaw). Such twisting can cause teeth to either protrude past the lips or poke into the gums or roof of the mouth.

Some breeders have been known to clip the Persian's teeth in hopes of fixing these problems. However, clipping is somewhat controversial. One must consider the possibility of bacteria getting into the bloodstream and causing endocarditis. If your Persian suffers from teeth and/or jaw problems, please talk to your veterinarian about safe, effective solutions.

Toxiplasmosis

Toxiplasmosis can give pregnant moms grief! It is one of the very few diseases that is transmittable between humans and cats. However, the chances of contracting it from your cat are minimal. (People are more likely to get it from foods, such as pork.) Nonetheless, it is good to be aware that cats can carry it. You can have your vet run a check on your cat through a stool sample. (It seems that the highest risk for this parasite is in cat feces older than 24 hours.)

It is easy to avoid getting toxiplasmosis, and you don't need to give up your kitties during pregnancy. It just requires that you have minimal contact with your cats' stools. Have your spouse, a neighbor, or someone else change the litter box while you are pregnant. Not only will this make your risk of contracting this disease virtually nil, but it will also prevent any complications caused by breathing in the clay dust and residue from the litter.

Note: Bird feces contains a parasite that is dangerous to pregnant women! So definitely get someone else to handle cleaning the bird cages if you keep birds.

Articles Covered

Feeding, Milk Consumption, Plants Toxic to Cats, Recipes, Raw Diet,


Feeding
You've heard the saying. "You are what you eat." Your Persian deserves to have a healthy diet. Here are some good cat foods recommended by breeders:

Eukanuba
Hills Science Diet
Iams
Nutro Max
Royal Canine
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Milk Consumption

There are very mixed reviews about cats and milk. Cats usually will drink milk, but it may not be the best substance for their digestive systems. Many cats are actually lactose intolerant. So giving milk to your cat may result in him/her having an upset stomach or diarrhea. An alternative is a product called Cat Sip. It's a milk product made for cats, so your cat should be able to digest it easily. You can pick up Whiskas or Felix Milk, (or other products like it) at your supermarket in the cat-treat section. It looks like a little juice box.

Plants Toxic to Cats

Consumption of the following plants can result in regurgitation, diarrhea, nausea, and abdominal pain.

Dieffenbachia/dumbcane
Lilly of the valley
Mistletoe
Mushrooms
Morning glory
Oleander
Philodendron
Poinsettia
Rhubarb
Tomato vines
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Raw Diet Suggestions

Info From Bulletin Boards, Pork Warning, Matters of the Bone, Vitamin Deficiencies Addressed, Raw Diet for Kittens, Raw Chicken Wing Benefits,

Raw Diet Suggestions

Consult with your vet.
Keep things sanitary! Make sure you clean and dissinfect any surfaces where you prepared the food (before and after).
Dispose of the food after it has been out for half an hour.
Purchase the products from a knowledgeable butcher rather than buying packaged meat from a supermarket.
If you're not going to prepare the meat immediately, then go ahead and freeze it.

I personally use either Yeomans or Prize Choice in beef or chicken. My cats love it.

Info From Bulletin Boards

Pork Warning Patsy Sims 2002-03-21 14:02:05
Trichinosis, from what my research has shown, found in pork, is to be AVOIDED!!! HIGHLY AVOIDED!! I would never give raw pork to my girls. In fact, when we do have pork at our house, I cook the pork chops so DONE, they are almost burned!!! I am very new at this feeding raw meat and really consider myself a "rookie" when it comes to feeding raw meat. But....I am trying to educate myself along these lines. When I say I feed my girls raw meat, I certainly don't want to encourage anyone else to do so, until they have researched the matter thoroughly and feel comfortable with their decision.

Matters of the Bone

Marybeth Baldwin 2002-03-21 15:38:34
On the subject of bones... it's cooked bones of any type (beef, pork, chicken, etc.) that are dangerous and splinter. Raw bones, are the ONLY type of bone to feed. I think beef/pork/lamb (all the larger mammal bones) really don't get eaten or ground - they are simply used as chewing things. I am simply staying with what I feel would be fairly natural or as natural as possible for a domestic-sized cat. I am primarily using ground chicken/bone, and will soon be adding ground bone in rabbit. I have also used duck. I am not using beef, lamb, pork, or any large mammal and I do not use turkey, as I understand those bones are too large and tough to be properly ground. I have and will use turkey meat, but must add some sort of calcium supplment to it.

 

Vitamin Deficiencies

Addressed Susannah Wordsworth 2002-04-02 00:32:07
I had fears about bacteria and parasites, and they inhibited me from trying to feed fresh raw meat for a long time. Then I began to actually believe that unheat-processed, properly balanced raw food for cats is really the food their bodies are made for and meant to eat.
I think giving real fresh human-grade meat is great. But longer term, giving only this unsupplemented as a main part of a diet is going to result in deficiencies which can be serious, for example without sufficient calcium and taurine a cat will get very sick. Raw meat has much more calcium than cooked, but raw heart contains the most taurine and if you aren't giving heart then you need to give a taurine supplement. Also, if you aren't giving ground bone, you need to give calcium in some other form, like calcium carbonate (from a drugstore, just give a little pinch per meal) or the crushed eggshells some give. I'm not sure how much eggshell is good, but to prepare it, you can just wash the egg, pour out the contents (yolk and white), remove the membrane from the shell and then crush the shell to fine powder. You don't need to cook it. Egg yolk (NOT the white as Mary said) uncooked is very good for cats though, maybe given two or three times a week maximum with other food. And can you find salmon oil. This oil is close to the oil a cat's natural prey would have, and you could just squeeze out a little with a raw chicken meal to provide some EFA's. I am just such an advocate of raw now. I know it can help the immune system and digestive system so much, I would hate to see a cat deprived of its benefits!

Raw Diet for Kittens

Marybeth Baldwin 2002-03-21 15:38:34
I don't start weaning until 6 weeks at least. I use the same mix for kittens as adults. That's one of the things about feeding natural... there is no "special" diet. I might grind it a little finer - I currently use the course grinder disk. (Make sure they have access to water.)

Raw Chicken Wing Benefits

Marybeth Baldwin 2002-04-01 05:50:31
Actually, raw chicken wings are really an ideal thing for dental health. I have had my cats on all raw for almost a year now. The older ones still have rotten mouths from the years on dry food. But my two youngest have been on raw since weaning, and their teeth are still wonderful. Granted, they are still young, but many Persians seem to start acquiring tartar and tooth problems before a year anyway.
You might try some chicken ribs (the bit of bone and cartilage left when you remove the breast meat) or just the wing tip. Also, many people use chicken necks for the same purpose. And since there is usually no skin left on the necks, perhaps your cat would be more inclined to chew on it. Gizzards are also quite chewy, and while not as ideal as bone to chew on, they will help keep tartar at bay. Some of my cats can handle the whole gizzard, but for most of them, I do cut them into manageable pieces. All my cats seemed to go nuts over the raw gizzards. If you do give the gizzard, be sure you stay in the room while he/she chews on it. If they don't take their time and chew it up, they can choke. I give mine their gizzards while I am fixing stuff in the kitchen. Something else to try with the bone/wings is making sure they are room temperature. I warm my raw food mix up in a baggie in warm water for a few minutes.

Groom your Persian's coat daily or at least every other day

. Breeders recommend using a natural bristle brush (soft) and/or a comb. Avoid nylon combs because they generate static electricity. If you discover a knot, simply tease it apart with your fingers then brush/comb it. If you need to cut it out, first slide a comb underneath the knot to separate the knot from the skin. Using round-tipped scissors, cut the hair sitting on top of the comb.
Wipe tearing eyes with a damp washcloth (no soap) once in the morning and once in the evening. For problems with staining around the eyes, consult your vet before using any cleansers or solutions.
Be sure to check the skin regularly for cuts, abrasions, or parasites.
Bathe your Persian regularly- once or twice a month. Fill a basin/tub with lukewarm water. Using cat shampoo, work up a lather all over the fur. Be careful around the eyes and ears. Rinse thoroughly and towel dry. Be sure to run a comb through the coat to prevent matting. Let the cat dry in a warm environment- some people even blow dry their cats.