The Cage page!

Having been out of the loop really with the most recent additions to the cage market I have redesigned this page to include more links to sites that cover what is available currently , I also look at some general pointers to consider before you buy your cage and  I discuss my current rat set up.

Introduction

I feel it is important to mention the significance of the CAGE as part of your shopping list for your new pets as it is where they will be expected to live the majority of their lives. Therefore space is probably the most important consideration, people (including many pet shops!) often underestimate the amount of room a rat requires but rats are intelligent active animals so need plenty of room to move about.  Couple this with the fact that rats are best housed in pairs or small groups then be prepared to purchase a sizeable cage.

Rats live a large part of their life in a cage, so it has to be right!

Basic considerations

Kittens and Small does

Some of the large cages available may have wide bar spacing, this is quite often because they are not primarily designed for rats, but chinchillas or ferrets etc instead.  This large bar spacing offers perfect opportunities for kittens and even some small adult does to escape!

Luna : "I want out!"

To combat this you can either do what I have done in the past and have a smaller cage, with closer bars for your kittens to grow up in. Choose a large cage with narrower bars (although these are rare) OR temporarily cover the cage in chicken wire, held in place with cable ties till the rats are big enough for the cage to be safe for them.

Older rats

Older rats have yet again different requirements from the young/adult rats. As they get older you will find a lot of rats cant get around as easily and are generally not as active, preferring to spend more of their time sleeping. Cages at this time of life can be smaller to reflect this more sedate life style. In addition to this, cages for older rats should have few big drops and no steep slopes or ramps for them to climb. It is important to consider all the toys and enrichment you include for them too as they must be able to safely use all of their enviroment.

For very elderly rats or those with badly wasted/paralysed back legs it can be kinder to have them in a single level cage so that they can easily access everything in their environment. Although saying this my old rat Bramble who has very poor use of her back legs could still get around her cage well and could still manage to get on the platforms using the gently sloping tubes I have replaced the ladders with.

Size vs. Cleaning out

Another important factor that I have learnt over time is that a large spacious cage can mean that it is difficult to clean out /access/ move around your home, especially if you keep your cage upstairs! It is important to way up the pros and cons of space over how easy they are to clean out. Be realistic in what you will be prepared to clean out however many months down the line, when some of the novelty has worn off your new pet and it is freezing cold outside. It is important to find this manageable balance between space and ease of use.

My old Ferretrail cage, a super fun cage for my rats...a pain in the bum to clean out!

My current set up...

As of the beginning of 2009 my rats have moved outside to the garage, this is because my parents no longer wanted any cages in the house. Moving my boys outside has been a massive learning curve and with my dad's help we are constantly improving their habitat to make it as ideal as possible for them. So what is the new set up like? ...Well I currently have 3 boys (soon to be 4) and they live in a double story hutch that is over 4ft long. It fits perfectly in the space I was allotted in the garage and provides lots of room for the boys. It cost around £90 from an internet website and was fairly easy to construct.  I chose a hutch because as already mentioned it suited the space I was given and would also be warmer for my rats in winter however it does have some down sides. Chops has successfully made little chew marks all over it. Also as suspected, even though it was said to have a protective coating in the base it does soak up the urine on exposed wooden surfaces and can be hard to clean in that respect (in other ways it is very quick to clean though).

The boys hutch...

Since having it we have made several modifications to make it more suitable, including adding varnished shelves for more space, hooks for hammocks etc, decreasing the bed compartment access hole to make this warmer and countless attempts at fiddling around with the best method to heat them in the winter. Rats ideally shouldn't be kept below 10 degrees so we have very recently installed on the bed compartment ceiling a "Reptile Radiator" by habistat (which cost around £48), which we plan to connect to a thermostat and monitor carefully.  Initial trials show that this is very effective at heating the space, although the manufacturers say it will not burn it does get quite hot, so we may add a guard at a later date depending on how the boys react to it.

 Finally future improvements that I may make include buying a hutch cover for really cold winters nights and possibly covering the floors with either lino tiles or Perspex to make it easier to clean.

Recommended links!

More links will be added in the future!

 

Last updated 17th March 2009

All photo's and some art work are produced by me, unless stated otherwise. Please do not take any of my art work or photos as allot of work has gone into them. If you do wish to use some of my art/gifs/photos then please email me for permission first.

Copyright Podels 2001-2009.

Disclaimer = I do not claim to be an authority on rodents or rats and any information on this page is just opinions and advice and is by no means a substitute for good books or veterinary advice.  All the toys on the toys page are just ideas and may not have been tried out so it is up to you to implement them and judge there safety.         

 

 

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