France 2006

This year will only be a short visit (eleven nights), as we have been to Poole for a week with Nicole and family on the way (see England 2006). We had tickets from Dover to Dunkerque with Nolfolkline for £38 return, even though this did mean travelling through the night, something we said we would never do again but it suited us this time, as we got more time with the family at the holiday park in Poole. If we had not got a crossing for at this low a price, I don’t think we would have bothered going to France for such a short break.

Arrived at the port very early didn’t mean to but as you may know, if you miss the last service area on the M20, there is very little choice of places to park before the port. When we arrived the place was in chaos and the queues where horrendous, (I think it may have had something to do with England playing in the quarter final of the world cup in Germany and people just wanting to be there, I could be wrong, it may be like that every Friday night at the end of June,) even with all this we where still very early at check in.

The man on the check in said we where too early, as where many others, he could send us back round but we would just be stuck in the traffic again, or we could go and join the standby line. “If we do not get on the next one, we will get the one we booked” I asked, “probably” was the answer. As we where here for some time, I set up the laptop for the TV to watch the football. Now, as we sat in the stand by line, I began to think about this conversation, “we will get the one we booked,” “probably”, this worried me, are we now just stuck in the standby line and will get on when there is a space? I decided to phone the office for clarification, found the number and was reassured that we would at least get on the ferry we booked, just then we where moved forward and then on to the earlier boat.

Even though we where on the older ferry it was still much more comfortable than the Seafrance one last year, we got sat in the lounge with reclining seats, even managed a bit of a nap.

Bit of a problem getting away from the terminal in Dunkerque, did not follow the GPS but followed the other traffic, who where in turn, following a lorry into the lorry park. This caused a bit of a traffic jam but we just turned round and followed the GPS, as we should have in the first place. Although there are new road layouts leading away from the port, and it was very foggy, we where on A16 motorway in no time at all and despite the fog, soon on to the A28 heading south to Houlgate. We where heading to Houlgate because we knew the site and with so little time in France we thought it best to start with somewhere we could rely on.

After about two and a half hours driving, Dot was falling asleep and I was very tired so I pulled into an Aire and had a couple of hours rest, we had been up for about 24 hours by then (this is exactly what we had to do last year). Suitably refreshed and after some coffee we set off on the last 150K of the journey to Houlgate on the A28 over the big scary bridge over the Seine at Le Havre and then via the A13. AutoRoute suggestion for the last part of the journey to the site was via the D45, D163 & D513 but the D24, D24A looked like a more direct route, it is but very narrow.

We had booked but check in was not as smooth as it should have been, all was well and we where being directed to our pitch, when I mentioned we had a camping-car. This seemed to upset them and they started searching their computer for another pitch, "you did not mention you had a camping-car when you booked" was their reason for the upset. Now I booked using an online form and had filled in all of the boxes and paid the deposit and had an acceptance letter from them but they didn't know I had a camping-car. I asked what the difference was but I did not understand their answer, anyway after quite a long time searching, we where assigned a different pitch.

It turned out to be a rather small corner pitch but we could fit on and assumed we had done something wrong and this was the only site available.

We decided that, before we do anything else, we would head off to the supermarket for provisions and diesel, I knew where to go as we had been before in 2004. The Super U was heaving and the lines at the checkouts where huge, it was a Saturday and we don't usually go near the shops on weekends at home for this very reason. After queuing for a while I said to Dot that I would fill up with diesel and meet her outside, so after walking back to the van driving to the petrol station, queuing, filling up, driving back to the car park and walking back to the shop Dot was still queuing.

Back on site I setup the Satellite for the England game, not the best reception as we where down in a valley and typically, there was a tree in the way. Had a walk up to the bar to se if the football would be on up there but there was no sign that it would be so decided to watch in the van. The match was on in the bar and when it got to penalties, as they where watching on terrestrial TV and I was watching on satellite I could here whether a penalty had gone in before it had been taken. Then when it was all over and we had lost, the people in the tent opposite us, went mad, we had the only Portuguese on the site next to us.

Later it was the turn of the French to go mad as they went through to the semi finals, the outcome being, fire works and car horns going well in to the night.

This morning a couple in a van with GB plates were looking at a pitch adjacent to us, also a very small one, they were trying to work out how to fit their van on. I walked over and suggested that they find a site that they liked, then go back to reception and ask if they could move there. Later on they came back and thanked me for the advice, I could have done the same but couldn't be bothered to move the awning.

On the afternoon we walked into town and along the sea front, heading north, found the caravan site right on the front, it vas very cramped and also looked a bit scruffy but it is in a marvellous position. Climbed up some very steep steps from the sae front only to walk back down the hill to the bars and shops. Had a beer and watched the sun go down over the sea (we are from the east cost, so we usually only get to see the sun rise from the sea).

That night we sat outside the van with citronella candles burning and drinking a few Grimbergen. No football.

Got the bike ready and set of for Cabourg the next town to the south, rode down to the sea front, where we had to stop at the traffic lights but then when the lights changed, the bike died. I had run out of petrol, not really that unexpected, as I have never filled it since I got it last year. It did look like there was some in, if you looked in the tank but the gauge doesn't work. Parked the bike up on the front, and set of to look for a petrol station, the only one we knew about was about 3K away at the supermarkets in Dives-sur-Mer adjacent to Cabourg. I flagged down a passing cyclist and asked if there was one closer but I was right it was a 3K hike.

We locked up what we could, helmets, etc and set off for the service station, walking along the sea front. After about 200 meters I spotted a taxi and attempted to wave him down but he just waved back. At about 800 meters I popped into a bar to ask if I could get petrol any closer (what I really wanted, was for someone to say "no worries friend I will run you there and back" but they didn't) and there isn't. About 200 meters further on, I tried again, at what looked like motorcycle messenger service, I went in and asked about petrol stations, the lady behind the counter had no English but the man she was serving did, and joy, they offered to show me the way by following them. When I explained that I had no vehicle, they then offered to take me. This wasn't a motorcycle messenger service, it was a driving school, and we where going on a lesson, with the learner driving, and the first thing he did was stall the car. After a bit of arguing about the best way to get there, we where eventually dropped off at the Super U petrol station (the one where I got diesel on the first day), but we had to walk back to the supermarket to bye a petrol container, it was quite expensive in my opinion. When we came out of the Super U, the Intermarché petrol station was closer, so we crossed the road and bought 2 litres of petrol. To cut this story short, we had to walk the full 3K back to the scooter but we had bought drinks, chocolate and bananas for the long hot walk back.

With the scooter refuelled, we make the decision to carry on with our trip and head to Cabourg where we have a very hot walk along and a cool drink on the long promenade. Cabourg seems to be a very nice place, with long walks along the sea front but with a lot of development going on.

Later that night when I check up on AutoRoute there is supposed to be a petrol station in Houlgate, less than 1K from where we had run out, could the French have just been taking the mick?

Back down the beach for a day sunbathing (something I am not really into but I do have my book). The route we took to the beach passed the petrol station shown in AutoRoute but it isn't there and then think I can remember it wasn't there last time we where here in 2004. This is a fault with AutoRoute that has caught us out more than once and will again (see France 2004 and later in this trip).

We have a walk through the park on the way back to the site, all very pleasant and better than walking by the busy roads.

Once back at the site we head up to the pool again and from there in to the bar, where we watch Germany v Italy in the first semi final. There is a big TV under cover outside the bar but we sit inside, as it has cooled down, could just be because we have been in the pool and it did rain a bit.

Had a quiet day on the site just relaxing and doing nothing more strenuous than reading and sitting. A mobile climbing wall was setup abut 50 meters in front of us, so I spent some time watching other people exerting themselves and that made me quite tired.

I was brought back to life by the sound of loud wagon horns being blown, it was the circus coming to town, just like on an American film. Most of the them were pulling one, two or more colourful trailers, they were very long, like road trains and all very noisy announcing they arrival. Funny thing is, they had come in the same way in to town as I had, down the very narrow road.

At teatime walked over to the bar with the intention of getting something to eat but decided to just do something back at the van (that means we have had only home cooked food up to now, well food cooked in the van). We did however have a drink outside intending to leave making room before the football started, as it was France v Portugal in the second semi final. But it was not that crowded so eventually we didn't go back to the van for food until part way through the second half, by which time the bar was heaving inside and out.

France win but unlike the first night here there is just a quick burst of celebration at the final whistle (fire works and car horns) but then nothing, very quiet and very strange, although it is a Wednesday and the first time was a Saturday?

We left Houlgate nice and early but by a different road to the one we had come in on, this one was a lot wider, It was the one AutoRoute had suggested on the way in, so it is useful most of the time. We were heading to a site close to Giverny so that we could visit Monet's garden before heading back north. We had picked out a four star site from the ACSI Camping Guide Europe, Camping Château Gaillard at Bernières-sur-Seine on the Seine. On the way back to the A13 there are people by the side of the road and lots of police (don't see many police in France usually) so Dot says the Tour must be coming this way. Now usually, when in France when the Tour is on, we check to see where they will be and in fact we had checked most days but had forgotten today. Dot did suggest stopping to see them go bye but as we weren't completely sure it was the tour, or what time they may be passing, we just carried on.

So it was back on the A13 all the way to the A154 for a short distance to the N155 and an Intermarché for some supplies then on to the D135 to Bernières-sur-Seine via the C82. Well that was the plan, A13 to A154, 110k no problem, then 1.5K before the N155 with only 17K still to go, we are waved off our route to make way for the Tour de France. We are not allowed to stop and check for an alternative route (which there wasn't as the Tour coming exactly the opposite way we wanted to go) just waved on in to the town of Louviers. There we did stop eventually after being waved on several times, and plotted a route to get us back on track. This took us down a very narrow street but luckily it wasn't very busy (the Tour was passing through the town just behind us and everyone besides us must have been watching). Another bit of luck was passing a large supermarket, as we were not going to get to the one we were originally heading for.

Stocked up and back on route after our detour, the D134 is still intermittently lined with with Tour supporters some having BBQs, most drinking, all waving, the road is painted with massagers for riders and the villages all have bunting out.

Bernières-sur-Seine is tiny, Camping Château Gaillard is on the outskirts and doesn't look like a four star site, we pull up outside and walk in. The people on reception are friendly and allow us have a walk round the site but we do not like the look of it (in my opinion it looks like a travellers encampment), anyway we get back in the van and head for Les Andelys about 5K further down the D134.

The municipal site at Les Andelys is just over the bridge, sharp right as we entered the town, it is beside the river with views of the medieval fort Château Gaillard.

We get a pitch facing the river, on the site there is a small bar/cafe with a half built/demolished swimming pool, not sure which. The Brits on the next pitch tell us how we just missed the Tour passing the site and going over the bridge and also that it has been raining with massive thunderstorms for three days, until about an hour before we arrived, so we have had some luck today.

After watching the huge barges going up and down the Seine, we set off in to town to have a look round, there is a municipal pool on the other side of the bridge. We find the way up to the Château just by the tourist info and also the way to the new town but by the time we get to the shops, its late and everywhere is shut, we got an ice-cream and walk back to the site along the river.

That evening several Austin Healeys and a couple of other sports cars come on to the site and setup small tents, they would have to be small there's not much room in their boots.

On the morning we set off for the Château, quite a steep walk luckily its was bit overcast or it would have been a very hot climb. Château Gaillard was built by Richard Coeur de Lion, King Richard I of England, in little more than 12 months, between 1197 and 1198. If you want to know more, you can always trek up there yourself and read the packs, we did not pay to go in to the museum, we had already seen enough. There are really good views of the valley and old town from up there as well.

By now it was lunch time, so we set off for the new part of the town (it was further then we thought), we stopped off at the first supermarket we came to and bought cooked chicken and baguettes, which we ate in the small park opposite.

We had seen two or three Ford GTs pass by as we walked towards the town centre, very unusual, but now as we sit in the park eating, more and more of them keep passing bye (I have looked on the net to see if there was a mention of this but nothing), nice to see them though. As we continue our walk to the new town we keep hearing music, at first I think it is coming from a house window, as it fades as we walk on but then it comes back so I look to see if it is coming from a car stuck at the lights in the heavy traffic but again no. The music keeps coming and going, then eventually we discover loudspeakers on the lampposts, we had seen these before in France but never actually doing anything before.

The new town is busy so we just have a quick look around have a sit for a drink and a rest, then head back towards the river but by a different quieter route away from the traffic.

We arrive back at the river next to the hospital, and its the best looking hospital I have ever seen. From there we take a slow walk back to the site via the river bank again.

A Dutch family (Mam, Dad and two teenagers) in a small campervan are next to us when we get back, the Dad has a huge knife in a scabbard on his belt (laws must be different here). The first thing that they do is, the boy starts a small stove to boil rice and the Dad lights a small BBQ on the road, then hacks open a pack of steaks with his dagger (that's what its for). When they have eaten and it starts to get dark, they then start to set up a tent, is it just me or would normal people get things sorted first before it gets dark and then eat?

Nice day, weather has improved so decide to just walk by the river and have a picnic lunch, we pack some food and cold beer with some frozen water (we use the water to keep things cool and it can be drunk later in the day, just like me).

After a walk we settle down on a bench for the picnic, and a nice relaxing day in the sun by the river, reading and watching the barges going up and down. There was a shop round the corner from the seat that sold very cold 1664 very cheap.

Up early today, as we are visiting Monet's garden and house in Giverny on our way to Albert for our last two nights in France.

The route to from Les Andelys to Giverny (and Monet's garden) is, turn right out of the campsite on to the D313 to the D181 then off on to the D5 which passes trough Giverny.

The parking for the van was not as easy to find as the several posts I had read on the internet, made out. The car park is actually just opposite where you pay to go into the house, it is in a perfect place really. There was a small queue to get in, but by the time we came out the queues where right down the street, I think we did it just right.

At first the gardens do not look to be much but the lily ponds / Japanese garden are on the other side of the road, via a tunnel. The house is not very impressive but you are where Monet lived and painted and that is impressive. All in it is well worth the visit if you are passing.

To get from Giverny to Albert we head back along the D5 to the D181 and head for Beauvais and the A16, via the D10, D181 again, D981 and E46. We turned off the A16 on to the A29 at Amiens (the road that wasn't there when we tried to use it is 2004), to the N25 and then D929 to Albert.

For the second time in one day, we had difficulty finding our way (we later discovered we had missed a signpost for the site, as it is in a stupid place low down on a busy intersection) and the route that AutoRoute chose lead to a dead end (again we later discovered we where practically outside the campsite but there was no road to it) this was because the site on the pushpin set was slightly out, a problem with some of these downloads. It was a simple matter of turning round and back tracking a couple of streets to find it.

Its a municipal site and there wasn't anyone on reception but two different people said to just find a pitch on the top field set up and come back to reception at 17:30 to check in. I drive up to the top field where an English couple tell me the best places to park up and explain the the guy from reception may or may not be back at 17.30 but that he will show up, some time this evening. The couple stop off here every year on there way to and from holidays around France and this year are taking a French family back to England with them (we usually only take quality beers and wine back with us!!).

Eventually about 18.30 we book in for two days then settle down to watch the world cup final, the locals are all exited and there are flags everywhere (we have been told that unlike the English who have been flying flags for weeks before the competition started, the French have just realised they are in it, are now in the final and the flag makers have now been working flat out to keep up with the late demand). All a bit of a let down with France loosing 5 - 3 on penalties, very quiet night.

Of in to the town centre, its only about half a mile to the Basilica, famous for the golden statue of the Madonna holding aloft her child. There is a museum under the Basilica that is worth a visit, it is in the old tunnels used during the war, the exit from the museum is quit a way from the Basilica, in the public park.

After a walk around the town we headed to the tourist information, a sign on the door states that someone will be back a 14.00, its 13.45 so we head off for a look around the shops that are open which doesn't take long and we head back just after 14.00. There is no one there, we find somewhere to sit in the sun and wait and then walk round the outside of the Basilica, eventually about 14.35 a lady open the office, we got the info we wanted and there was a room with photos and models of the town as it was in WW1, so it was worth the wait.

On the walk back we find a supermarket and an Aldi, the supermarket has Edelweiss a beer I have been after since last year, after we first had it on the Dordogne. I buy all they have, four pack of six (my backpack is heavy for the walk back) and a universal TV remote for a €1 (it doesn't work, or if it does the instructions are in French and I can not read them). We also look in Aldi and they have very cheap wine and a beer that looks like Leffe but is much cheaper, also an electric BBQ and some boules, we will have to come back tomorrow as we can not carry any more than we already have.

Later we walk in the other direction and it is quite a beautiful place, areas for recreation and fishing, with lots for locals having picnics.

We are off to Dunkerque today for the ferry home but today is the reason we are here, 80 years ago to the day, my grandfather was here in Albert with the DLI. It was day eleven of the Battle of the Somme and its the first place we know for sure where he was since two or three days before it started. So I wanted to be where he was on the same day 80 years on, I never met him, he died in the shipyards in the 1930s, but I have his diary for 1916 and feel I know him well. I will be back one day to visit some of the other places I know he was but no necessarily on the exact day.

Before we leave Albert, we first visit Aldi, to buy the things we saw the day before, red and white wine, several pack of the beer Ty Ternal Abbey (it is just like Leffe and is now at Aldi in this country at less than half the price) and the boules, the BBQ has no cable so we just leave it (latter we realise we have a cable the same at home, never mind).

On the way out of Albert we visit the Lochnagar Crater at the village of La Boiselle, the largest mine crater on the Western Front. It is a very impressive hole, it looks like a meteor crater, there is a school visit there at the same time as us, sadly they don't look very interested. We also visit one of the many war cemeteries, the British cemetery and memorial at Pozières, before heading off for the coast.

As we have plenty of time before the ferry, can take our time and stop for more beer to take back anywhere along the way. We head for the A1 along the D929 and from the A1 take the A26 for Calais. On the map, just off the A26 near Lens, we spot a Champion supermarket with a petrol station and head off the motorway to find it. After a bit of a detour we find it and stock up with much more wine, beer and lots of steak haché, fresh and frozen (we like them and its BBQ season at home). Then over for Diesel but its one that will not take my cards, so its back on the A26. At Calais we get on the A16 but instead of heading for Dunkerque we turn left and head for the supermarket at the tunnel instead. We get more beer more steak haché and some gifts for the girls but we can never find the petrol station there. So its back on the A16 towards Dunkerque and head into Gravelines for a walk before checking in to the terminal, now there should be a petrol station there but there but isn't, this one caught us out in 2004, then it was closed, this time it is gone. Very luckily there is one just a just bit further on as we would have run out.

The town square has been done up since we were last there and it looks good, also the car park that was used as an unofficial Aire is now an Aire. After a walk along the very long pier we head off for the ferry and arrive very early but we just join the queue. Then its off home.