Well another fuchsia season is drawing to a close and what a season, the weather was so good that many people will be abandoning their  foreign holidays in favour of our English beaches. Looking back over the term we had our own Vice President Peter Staveley giving us a presentation on standard fuchsia growing and this was followed by an interesting meeting with our own experts who passed on their knowledge and experience on many varied subjects. I sorted out a particular problem with their help - sciarid fly which causes many small holes in the upper leaves of the plants in spring. I had tried to identify the cause and with great perseverance (and a magnifying glass) have now managed to see one and have eradicated them with a suitable spray.
The weather made watering and shade most important especially for the mini show and the amount of flowers when the day arrived was most impressive. Dave Edmond talked his way through the entries giving some useful advice on growing and how some of the plants could be improved and had a difficult job choosing the winners. It was good to see one of our younger members among those placed. The cultivar Eva Dayes seems a good plant to grow and I will certainly try it again next year.
We were blessed with good weather for our show this year-last year was almost a washout if you can recall-Dave Edmond certainly will not forget the flood at Filey! We were well supported and the hall was filled with an abundance of fuchsias. It was hard work for all those involved but a most enjoyable and worthwhile experience. One of the main objectives of our society is to promote the cultivation and appreciation of fuchsias and I am sure that we have raised their profile and attracted some new members to join us and share the enjoyment of growing them.
My own efforts were set back by a three week absence for the wedding of my nephew  in the USA. Our two pugdogs and the fuchsias were left in the care of my daughter and her husband. As they have two small boys to care for the watering I think was somewhat spasmodic. When my fuchsia buddy arrived to take over, my large standard was on the point of collapse, he stood it in a bucket and saved the plant. With these large standards the logistics of getting them to the show is equal to the effort in their cultivation. The plant, Mood Indigo stood six foot six high  so with the pragmatic approach of the enthusiastic competitor I managed to load it into my estate car suspended on a sling between the two passenger handles and stabilised with a sag bag! The pleasure is often in the journey not the destination.
When in America we visited some botanical gardens called Longwood Gardens near Philadelphia. These were built by Du Pont the man who pioneered nylon and made a fortune. The gardens are marvellous, well laid out with lots of native American plants and trees. There is a spectacular fountain display which is computerised to synchronise either with music during the day or lasers at night. The main purpose of the orangery and glasshouses was to grow fruit during the winter. There was an abundance of peaches, melons and grapes when we were there. In the roof of the large orangery suspended on motorised cables were the largest baskets of fuchsias I have ever seen. The 14 inch baskets must have been five feet across-what a sight. The shading and air conditioning must help in their cultivation. The gardens are to be highly recommended.
The Autumn programme started with the visit of Peter Howarth from Ambleside when many of my own queries concerning the bulbs  in my garden and their mysterious disappearances were answered. Many of our springtime bulbs are ideal for companion planting in our hardy fuchsia beds. It is recommended that we remove all  the debris around the hardy fuchsias following the first frosts, but do not remove the remaining stems as they are hollow and a sharp frost could penetrate and kill the plant. The recommended time to prune these stems is when they start to shoot from the base usually at the end of March  into April. A planting of bulbs will obscure these unsightly stems and utilise them for support. I often grow bulbs in containers and when they have flowered move them into the fuchsia border.
The autumn is now upon us with the morning mists and mellow fruitfulness. It has been the best season for many years. I wonder if any members have made fuchsia jam? If they have I would certainly like to taste it. We are all set for a talk on fuchsias by Ken Pearn who judged our mini show a couple of years ago and this will be followed by our social evening at the Crescent Hotel. This reminds me that I must pop into the Crescent gardens to check how the plants the Society donated are doing.

Editor: Stewart and I  have also been working hard to secure the speakers for next year's monthly meetings and organise some additional items for the programme.  I can assure you that you will again be in for treat next year as we endeavour to celebrate our 20th anniversary in style. The full programme will be despatched to you in good time before our first meeting on 21 January as we are still awaiting a couple of confirmations before we can go to press. However, as an appetiser, I can reveal now that we have managed book the Vice President of the British Fuchsia Society, Jim Muil one of the most knowledgeable speakers around for our March meeting.   The rest of the programme promises to give us many entertaining as well as instructive evenings to look forward to. - please ensure you renew your membership so you do not to miss out!! 
May I also remind you that you are most welcome to bring along friends, neighbours and family to any of our meetings.

On behalf of the Society I would like to extend a very warm welcome to our new members. We are very please indeed to 'have you on board' and you can rest assured that you will have our full support and assistance as you seek to increase your knowledge and, henceforth, the pleasure of getting to know and grow fuchsias in earnest. Hopefully you will be able to attend our monthly meetings and enjoy taking part in the Society's activities this coming year.
'Fuchsia Folk are Friendly Folk' says the fuchsia world's motto and I trust you'll find you have joined a very friendly Society. We have many members who have accrued a wealth of knowledge on fuchsia cultivation over the years and they will be able to assist you. If you require any help or further information on fuchsia growing, feel free to ask around at our monthly meetings. The Committee and indeed your fellow members, I'm sure, will be only too willing to steer you in the right direction, and of course, you can contact the Secretarial Team of Stewart (863161) or myself (370454) any time regarding any queries about the Society or any aspect of fuchsia growing - we are 'at your service'!
Hopefully we will even get you enthused enough before too long to also 'have a go' at participating in our Shows. There was room for some more entries in the beginners classes - our lifeline for the future. However, the main thing is to really enjoy your fuchsias, at whatever level you choose to participate, and at the Society we'll endeavour to help you along. Welcome & Enjoy!!!!

To make this revolutionary method of watering your hanging baskets you will require an empty plastic lemonade or cordial bottle, a 9" length of strong thin wire, a darning needle, a length of coarse plastic twine (baler twine is ideal) and just 5 minutes.
Take the bottle, usually a 2 litre size (larger or smaller will work), and wash out all traces of the contents. Thread the needle with a short length of filament from the twine, and push through the bottle cap in two places. Tie the filament to prevent it slipping out. Bend the wire at each end to form a hook, the shank or leg should be about 3/4" long. The hooks should point in the same direction. Now bend the wire so that the two hooks touch one another, and tension to the width of the bottle. Push each hook into the bottle wall, on either side of the bottle and about 1" from the base, to form a hanger.
Fill the bottle with clean water, screw on the cap and invert the bottle. Hang on a suitable hook to test the speed of the drip. Add or remove filaments to obtain the correct flow. It should take between 1½ and 2 hours to empty a 2 litre bottle. For use, fill the bottle and suspend it above the hanging basket.
This method of drip watering hanging baskets is much superior to the watering normal method, as the water dripping on to the medium gently soaks in, before any surplus falls to the ground.

Our grateful thanks to Peter Long especially, and Peter Bendall  for putting up and looking after the Society display at the Borough Council's  'Borough in Bloom' Exhibition  which was held at the Foreshore from 22 to 31 August.
The display looked very good and included some lovely bonsai fuchsias on a pretty display stand. It was much admired and proved quite a talking point!
Many thanks also to Peter & Lois Staveley for putting on a fine display at the Burniston Show.  Well done all - it's a great help in promoting the Society.

In preparation for some displays next year when we will commemorate our 20th Anniversary I would like to build up some stock of 'Scarborough' fuchsias. The ones bred by our former president Bob Poyner, prefixed with Scarborough, such as 'Scarborough Society', 'Scarborough Rock', 'Scarborough Jamboree', (I already grow 'Scarborough Seasprite' and 'Scarborough Harlequin') and the Scarborough connected fuchsias such as 'Max Jaffa' and 'Alan Ayckbourn'.
Any offers?? Cuttings or small plants - can swap or pay for them.
Please contact Claudy Dixon on  01723 - 370454 (weekend or evenings).

The  June meeting took the form of an in-house 'Fuchsia Question Time', along the lines of the popular radio shows.  The panel of  experienced growers, Norman McMullen, Stewart Walker, David Edmond & Claudy Dixon faced an array of intriguing questions and just about managed to supply all the answers. This is actually an important facet of the Society, sharing knowledge to encourage others, and we do have a wealth of experience to tap into - so ask!!
Subjects raised included capsid bugs, deadheading, defoliating, rainwater, overwintering (why should that be a thought in the mid summer!), shaping plants, red spider mite, and on a light hearted note we also learned that rabbits don't like fuchsias!
Folk were also interested to know 'what makes a good showman'. The panel was fully united in reply: the 3 P's - planning, plantsmanship and persistence. Indeed it is all important to overcome your initial hesitance and get some plants on the showbench as soon as possible. This will provide a good indication of the standard you have already reached and gives you a taste of the pride and excitement gained from playing a vital part in the event. Win or loose, it is then a matter of always aiming to improve. Learn from your initial mistakes and learn from your fellow, more experienced members by asking questions. Also take note of the many tips provided by the speakers at our monthly meetings. Borrow some books from the Society Library or read some articles on the internet. Strive to increase your knowledge and thus your ability to grow good plants. However, don't forget that you will also hear and read a lot of seemingly conflicting ways of doing things, as every one seems to have developed a favourite way. So, if not too successful (yet!), experiment to discover what suits your growing conditions best and when you have found a way that works well - stick to it!! And don't give up after one bad season - we have all had our set-backs and bounced back! Naturally, to get the best out of your show plants, planning is most important, to make the best of your time and facilities. Don't be tempted (look who is talking!!!) to grow too many plants. Grow only as many as you can look after properly, remembering that they need turning and inspecting on almost a daily basis -  for the real dedicated show people, that is! Counting back from the Show date a programme of stopping has to be devised, allowing the 8-12 weeks after the final stop for the plants to bloom on time and before that around 4-5 weeks between stops.
It takes some dedication, but it cannot be stressed enough, that you will be repaid with the great pleasure you get from growing successful exhibits. Although this query came from someone keen to have a go - which is of course much appreciated, it must also be stressed that all members are equally valued at our Society, whether growing for showing or just growing a few hardies in the garden - being interested in fuchsias is the only criteria!  However,  I would still like to advocate that, even if you don't want to grow sowing, but just want a nice display on your patio, that it is still very worthwhile following the above advice, as it will result in better shaped more floriferous plants that will fill you with the great satisfaction of a job well-done.
To finish the 'show' theme off, a list of 'easy ones' was asked for. I will endeavour to get a more comprehensive guide together for our next publication in February (nicely in time for the new growing and cutting buying season) but at the time the following cultivars were thought to fit this criteria very well and are thoroughly recommended: Katie Elizabeth Ann, Wigan Peer, Waveney Gem, Alan Titchmarsh, Celia Smedley, Checkerboard  & Snowcap.
Capsid bug, has proved a real menace once again, ruining many plants in the hardy borders and also display plants standing outside. It is not usually noticed until the damage has been done when you notice the distorted growing tips, which prevent the plants from flowering well. Stewart had brought along some leaves to show members the extent of the damage. The bug itself looks like a big greenfly but moves off quickly when disturbed, so not easy to catch and squash, our environmentally friendly preferred method.  So, the key is to remember to combat it before it can strike and apply a preventative spray from late April - early May, when the plants come into full leaf.
Deadheading spent flowers was recommended if you would like to see the growing season extended, just as you do with your other bedding really, though apparently when the flowers mature into berries at the end of the season these are edible and  can be gathered and made into wine or jam.
It was again stressed that fuchsias do prefer to be outside during the summer months, which results, in much sturdier, firmer growth, but because of windy conditions shelter is essential. Some growers therefore keep their plants in a greenhouse, with panes of glass removed for added ventilation and others have built structures made from netting which also provide the required shade. To avoid plants being marked badly though by bees leaving their footprints, plants are usually taken back into the greenhouse 7-10 days before the show date, and daily prayers are said for suitable weather conditions!!
Limited space obviously means we cannot recap on all the questions, but they were certainly very varied and made an entertaining, interesting and informative evening. Just one question baffled all: how is it possible to get the dreaded red spider mite, which thrives in hot, dry conditions, in a greenhouse which is well ventilated with the plants grown on gravel beds which are dampened down daily!! A mystery to all, but the members attending were pleased to have all their other growing problems solved, judging by the warm applause at the end.

After the break for the summer shows our autumn programme of monthly meetings commenced on 17 September with the visit of the Radio Cumbria presenter, Peter Howarth, who provided a talk and slide show about bulbs. With spring flowering bulbs such ideal companion plants for the hardy fuchsias in our gardens it proved another very interesting and informative evening.
Before getting down to the growing in the open garden, Peter started off with showing us how to plant up indoor bowls for a colourful display at Christmas. His step by step instruction and the quirky "are we happy about that" after each stage, meant that our members just cannot fail to have a blooming good show this year during the festive season.
For hyacinths it basically involves using a shallow bowl, filling it lightly, without pressing, with any multi-purpose compost with added charcoal. Insert the bulbs with their tips just showing and fill in with more compost. Use bulbs all of the same colour for an evenly balanced display or grow individually in 3" or 3½" pots and make up into a bowl when flower shoots show so you can select three (or more) of even size.  The covered pots can just be stood outside until 4 to 5 weeks before Christmas, when they should be brought in and weaned slowly to the heat. Hyacinths not only make a colourful display, but also will fill your rooms with sweet perfume, to remind you spring isn't too far off!!
Though Peter claims that the paperwhites narcissi (which should be planted in deep pots) are in fact the most fragrant bulbs that exist. Must try them!
Peter also showed us how to plant up some daffodil patio tubs. The (deep) pots were half filled with compost, then a layer of bulbs inserted, closely side by side. Compost was added to about 6" from the top and then a second layer of bulbs added. This is guaranteed to give a super show in spring, well worth a try.  For after-care the bulbs must be fed with i.e. a tomato fertiliser as soon as they finish flowering and the seed pods removed to build the bulbs up for flowering the following year. However, when planted 'pot thick' like this they will not be able to stay in the same pot for a second year as they will burst the pot!
Outdoor the main problem we seem to encounter with daffodils, as it is the question he gets asked most often and all over the country, are bulbs going blind. The main cause, according to Peter, is that these bulbs where just not the right size, but immature bulbs which just haven't reached their flowering potential, and hence won't flower the year of planting. Once a bed is established they can of course be left and will give years of pleasure.
Peter also reminded us about the structure of bulbs, having the immature flower inside. Hence we should not drop bulbs, as when the inside is damaged you will not get blooms either. The other reasons for failures are planting to incorrect depth or bugs underneath. Note the correct planting depth, this must be 3½ times the depth of the bulb.
Although many bulbs are just left in year after year, tulips are usually dug up every year. They are then sorted by size and the big ones planted again to flower while the little ones can be planted as peas in rows in a nursery bed until they attain flowering size.  Another tip to remember is not to buy snowdrops bulbs, but to buy them and transplant them only when the leaves are green.
Peter also showed some lovely slides of beautiful gardens and revealed an inventive trick he uses to get access to gardens of complete strangers. He just knocks on the door and asks where 'Joe Bloggs' lives, manages to turn the conversation to the garden and gets invited to see it! Nice one Peter!!
The slides also showed the Floriade in Holland, the Spalding flower corso and  bulb fields in 'the new Holland', Lincolnshire, where the bulb growing industry has been long established. In a huge greenhouse we saw the Christmas pots being grown -  but Peter reminded us: "they actually do it the same as us, but an acre at a time"
A most interesting evening  which was greatly enjoyed by all thanks to a very accomplished speaker.  Well done Peter!

We have a good selection of books including the updated BFS publication 'All About Fuchsias' and our own publication 'Topical Tips - The Fuchsia Growing Year'. This booklet, a snip at 80p, contains many handy hints and cultural advice to help and encourage newcomers to fuchsia growing, supplemented with a variety of articles about growing techniques and timely reminders for show preparations. Remember that books make great presents!!
As you will have noticed in our Newsletter, our own offerings have been  complimented by contributions from other sources, fellow fuchsia enthusiasts from all over the country.  We exchange info with a good number of other Fuchsia Societies and the introduction of the CAD's Fuchsia News, the BFS publication specifically set up to aid affiliated Society editors. These magazines are placed in our library for your perusal. During our monthly meetings you can see our Librarian, Carol Tindall, who can show you the books and assist you.   The library also contains the periodical publications of the BFS and the RHS, to which we are affiliated, back issues of our own Newsletters and a good range of books covering many aspects of fuchsia growing.

The basic information about our own Scarborough Fuchsia can be found on http:/myweb.tiscali.co.uk/fuchsiasforfun/sdfs.html    A bit much to type in, so a more sensible route to it is to check out the official B.F.S. Web site on www.thebfs.org.uk
A great starting off point, giving useful information about the B.F.S. and their Regional Shows. It also provides links to affiliated societies such as ours by way of a simple click on our Scarborough & District Society logo! 

The next display in 2004 will be held at Normanby Hall on 4 & 5 September 2004. The display will be in a marquee (the same size as at Lincoln) in front of the Hall and every Society will create a display in an area 9'x 9' and once again we hope that the tombola and plant table will be outside, together with displays of fuchsias.
The NECFG Committee have negotiated the cost of tickets for Affiliated Societies - 2 for 1 entry and admission is £4-00 and concessions £3-00. There is a caravan park on site and there is no charge but they must be self contained.
The Group will be allowed to raise funds in the marquee. The Council will produce a postcard with a fuchsia logo etc, and it is hoped that Societies will buy some to help raise funds. Another fund raiser will be beakers as last year with the Normanby Hall logo on.
A meeting was held in June and Peter Bendall, Peter Long, Colin and myself had a most enjoyable day at Normanby Hall Country Park and visited the nursery with a good selection of plants, the Victorian walled garden, farming museum, coach house, miniature railway. There were other areas we did not visit, it is also ideal for children with plenty of areas of grass for them to play.
As usual they will be holding plants sales in Spring and hope our members will be able to provide some plants for the sales. The Group has also been invited to have a stall and sell plants at the Scunthorpe Farmers Market in June so plants in flower will be needed.
Plant sales and the beakers will be the only money raised prior to the display, so please give your support as the profit that is made will be divided between Societies staging displays.
Please make a note of the dates in your diary 4 and 5 September 2004. We will keep you informed of any further developments in the arrangements and also the dates of the plant sales.        Christine Bramley

We treat them with affection, we call them each by name.
The well known beauty 'Swingtime', the vibrant 'Dancing Flame'.
We pinch and turn and prune them with unmatched dedication.
They are fertilised and hybridized to gain our admiration.
We pot them or basket them and hang them in the breeze.
We plant them in the garden, or train them to be trees.
We take them to or plants shows, to exhibit what we've done.
We even give a trophy to the most deserving one.
I'm sure some people think we're nuts, but when all is said and done -
We're simply fuchsia loving folks, and aren't we having fun?!

Autumn and Winter are the ideal times to just relax perusing the catalogues of SPECIALIST FUCHSIA NURSERIES. They do a truly fantastic job keeping such a fast range of cultivars in existence and they can only do so if we support them wholeheartedly so they can stay in business Imagine how boring the Shows would be if we were only able to buy the limited range of mass produced cuttings from the garden centre chains. 
Though mail-order is now unfortunately no longer a viable option we should endeavour to pay a visit at the onset of the next growing season. Be ruthless, discard some of your old plants, the ones that never seem to do well for you anyway and replace them with some of the exciting new varieties you spotted on the show bench during the summer. Most nurseries have some promising new introductions too or you could start a collection of a certain type, cultivars of a particular hybridiser or fuchsias in your favourite colour. The possibilities, with the versatile fuchsia, are numerous and the new plants, plus the inspiring advice that goes with them on collection, really sets the adrenaline going again. Pondering what to choose can also fill in many an otherwise dull winter evening. So, set the wheels in motion - get you catalogues in now!

«Oxtoby's Nursery

74 Westgate, North Cave, Brough, East Yorkshire. HU15 2NJ

)01430 - 423049   http://www.moxtoby.supanet.com
Our nearest specialist fuchsia nursery - catalogue available now. Well worth a visit as you can be assured of Mike & Jackie's personal attention and good advice to get you off to a flying start.

«A little further South - Kathleen Muncaster Fuchsias.

18 Field Lane, Morton, Gainsborough, Lincolnshire. DN21 3BY

)01427 - 612329   www.kathleenmuncasterfuchsias.co.uk
Catalogue now available, no mail order, but personal attention at the husband and wife run establishment. Pencil them in for a spring visit for young cuttings or visit in late Summer to see a national collection of 300+ hardy fuchsias.

«Bellcross Nurseries -  show begonias as well as fuchsias.
Howden, Goole, East Yorkshire, DN14 7TQ    )01430 - 430284

«If travelling up North pay a visit to Arcadia Nurseries.

Brass Castle Lane, Nunthorpe, Middlesbrough, Cleveland. TS8 9EB
)01642 - 310782    www.arcadianurseries.co.uk

Though converted to a major garden centre during the last few years, they still give fuchsias a prime place.

«Conveniently just off the A1 - Clifton Fuchsia and Plant Centre.
Clifton, Morpeth, NE61 6DG   )01670 515024   
www.morpethnet.freeserve.co.uk/clifton-fuchsias

Graeme Ord and staff are on hand to give advice and again a vast variety of cultivars are grown to choose from..

In the Greenhouse
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER

• Time to put your plants away for winter. Cut back by two thirds, remove all the foliage and if you prefer re-pot in fresh compost. This is a good method of eradicating vine weevil larvae or egg's which may have been present in the pot - less important now with the arrival of 'Provado'. This can be watered into pots, following manufacturers guidelines.
  
• Clean the greenhouse right out so no pests or diseases are around when you put your plants away. Wash all the frames and staging using a strong disinfectant such as 'Jeyes Fluid' if possible. A spray with a mixture of fungicide and insecticide after will do no harm either. Check all the glass and frames to see if any are damaged as it will be easier to change now than in the winter.
  
• Make sure heaters are working correctly, check thermostats if you use them.
  
• If you can maintain a temperature of 40°F plants will soon be throwing new shoots, and cuttings taken now will make fine large plants by early spring.
  
• Make sure that the plants are not over-watered at this time of year, just keep the compost barely moist.
  
• On all dry days, open the door and vents for a while to increase ventilation.
  
• Check biennial plants daily, and more thoroughly weekly. Remove any dead material and spray regularly with a systemic fungicide to prevent Botrytis.
  

• This month is probably the easiest. All you can really do at this time of the year is keep an eye on your over- wintering plants. Don't just leave them and expect everything to be fine.
  
• Continue to check plants regularly, and deal with any problems that you may find at the onset. Remember to check the plants at the back of the staging.
  
• Check each plant individually to see if it requires water and if so give it a little (eggcup full), but do not over-water.
  
• Remove dropped or yellowing leaves that are on the compost or staging.
  
• Spray regularly with a fungicide and on bright, dry days, continue to open vents and the door.
  
• If the greenhouse is heated ensure that the glass is kept clean and maximum light is allowed to enter. Too much heat together with low light levels will cause plants to grow tall and spindly.
  
• Order catalogues from nurseries  to add new varieties to your collection.
  

• Check you have an adequate supply of compost, trays, pots, potting compost etc. and if re-using old pots and labels ensure they are thoroughly cleaned.
  
• To economise partition off a small section in greenhouse and only heat  that.
  
• Check regularly for any signs of pests - so much easier to deal with a small outbreak now (squash between finger & thumb) then an infestation in summer.
  
• Keep the glass spic and span to ensure adequate light.
  
• Take stock of rested plants, prune back and repot in fresh compost, keeping a watchful eye out for vine weevil grubs.
  
• Spray stems with tepid water to soften wood and encourage new growth.
  
• Examine plants regularly, remove yellowing and fallen leaves to avoid botrytis.
  
• Water plants only sparingly, early in the day, clean excess condensation from inside of glass and ventilate freely to avoid damp, stagnant conditions.
  
• As natural daylight increases take first cuttings, ideally in heated propagator