Crag of the month - April
Crag of the month - April |
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Castle Rock of Triermain (South Crag) - Lake District |
Crag of the Month Index | |
An excellent single pitch crag of excellent steep volcanic rock. Facing south and being exposed to the wind it dries very quickly after rain and is a good roadside alternative to the more over popular Shepherds Crag. Could be very cold on a windy day. This is not really a crag for the real hard man, they should go to the North Crag. The best routes are in the Severe – VS range although there are worthwhile outings at VDiff, HVS and E1. The starts tend to be quite bold but once committed the protection is excellent.
Buttermere & Eastern Crags (Fell &Rock Climbing Club)
The crag is ten minutes up the hill from the National Trust pay & display car park at the southern end of St. John’s-in-the-Vale about ten minutes outside of Keswick. From Edinburgh it takes about two and a half hours.
I’ve included only routes that I’ve actually climbed, or are obviously worthy of mention. The route lengths are between 25m and 40m.
Yew Tree Climb VD
Best climbed in one pitch unlike the three described in the guidebbook. After a bold start up the slabs it becomes a fine novice leader’s route.
Gangway VD
Not a route for the novice leader. Bold traversing following a natural terrace
Wall Climb S
Enjoyable route with a thuggy finish, protection is a little sparse in the middle
Slab Climb S
I haven’t climbed this one, but the guidebook says it’s bold and reachy and gives it two stars.
Via Media S
Good, steep but well protected climbing following an obvious line
Direct Route VS 4b
A bold start leads to fine, well protected climbing
Kleine Rinne VS 4b
The route of the crag. A bold start leads to a zig-zag traverse across the slab above. Continue on blind jugs by the improbable looking hanging corner above. Micro wires useful here.
Gazebo HVS 4a, 5a
A scrappy first pitch is best omitted in preference for the start of Via Media. The committing second pitch climbs the steep wall above with spaced but adequate protection.
Failed Romantic E1 5b
Climb directly tothe hanging corner of Kleine Rinne and then follow the leftward leading dyke to join the top of Direct Route.
Green Eggs and Ham E1 5c
Short steep and well protected