Crag of the month - December 2002
Crag of the month - December 2002 |
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East Buttress, Scafell |
Crag of the Month Index | |
Multi pitch climbing on one of the highest cliffs in the Lake District. The crag is at an altitude of 750m and faces East round to South East, so favours the early riser. The usual approach is from Wasdale, which is the least accessible part of the Lakes, if you are driving down from Edinburgh. The best way to appreciate this crag is to make a weekend of it. My personal preference is to head for one of the camping barns en route on the Friday night, either near St. Bees Head or in Gosforth, get up early for the short drive to the start of the walk in, and camp high at Hollow Stones. This has the advantage of giving you the option of climbing on the East Buttress in the morning, transferring round to Scafell Crag (another Crag of the Month in itself!) later in the day to enjoy the afternoon and evening sun. Short descent back to the tent in the evening, cook your tea in the gloaming with the lights of the coastal strip on the horizon, repeat the next day!
The only catch is that the crag takes about a week to dry out - in which case the nearest water to Hollow Stones is 5 minutes away - it will be cold if there is anything less than a heatwave down in the valley, and the grades start at VS. This is not a crag for the novice, and it is probably only in condition for on average two weeks of the year. One has to be patient, and wait for the opportunities to climb here. When the conditions are right, the sound rhyolite, with its patina of lichen, feels tacky and has the friction of pumice stone.
Fell & Rock Climbing Club guide to Scafell, Wasdale & Eskdale. Current edition dates from 1996.
Park in Wasdale, at the Northern end of Wast Water (OS Sheet 89, MR NY183076). If you are early enough, there is a small lay-by that is free. Otherwise, pay at the National Trust car park. Walk up past the F&RCC hut at Brackenclose via Lingmell Gill to the new path up Brown Tongue to Hollow Stones. 1 hour 30 minutes. The crag (MR NY215069) is 30 minutes further on, accessed via Mickledore. Return to the valley takes about an hour, if you want to stay nearer the pub. National Trust campsite is loud and noisy - not recommended - but there is cheap camping in a field just across from the Wasdale Head Inn. Once or twice I have left my kit in a polybag at the foot of the crag on a Saturday evening, to return for it the next day; much easier on the legs.
Problematic. Ichabod / Phoenix have a chain in place for an abseil descent. There is tat in place above Leverage. Otherwise scramble down Broad Stand at Diff, and with a big penalty clause if you slip. However, it feels easier coming down than going up. Rumours of a Via Ferrata here surfaced one April 1st……
Virtually everything here is worth doing. I have included only what I am able to either lead or second; there is plenty that is well out of my league. Crag is so steep that anything less than about E2 tends to wander around a bit to find a line climbable at the grade. Route lengths vary from 50m up to 100m.
Chartreuse, E1 5a, 5b
Bold slab to start, thuggy crack to finish. Haven’t done this route yet, but it looks very good.
The Fulcrum, VS 4c, 4c, 4b
Another one I haven’t done; a good wind down after the harder stuff?
Mickledore Grooves, VS 4c, 4c
Crag classic at the grade. Just getting off the ground seems way harder than 4c!
Leverage, E1 5b, 5a
Ex HVS 5b, so a soft touch, and well protected on pitch one. The first few moves cross Mickledore Grooves, and can be used if you are baffled by the start of that route. Put up by Robin Smith, and a typical “Smith route”; very direct.
The Centaur, HVS 4b, 5a, 5a, 4c, 4c
Wanders around a bit, but in a magnificent way. My partner on the day got a bit lost on pitch 3 and ended up doing the poorly protected E1 direct variant by mistake! Final pitch features wild detached pinnacles and a layback in a spectacular position to finish
Great Eastern Route, VS 4c, 4b, 4b, 4a
Another wandering route, finding the easiest way through some impressive ground. First pitch stands out, but rest is fun too.
The Yellow Slab, HVS 4c, 4c, 4c
Low in the grade, but still more serious than your average VS. Pitch one as for Great Eastern Route; well-protected crack on pitch two.
I have not done any of the rest of the routes.
Ichabod, E2 5c, 5a
A Lake District classic.
Phoenix E1 5b, 5b
Sounds good - steep jamming to start, delicate aręte to finish.
Hell’s Groove HVS 5b, 5a, 4b, 5a
Another for gritstone thugs. Top pitch very slow to dry.
Trinity, HVS 5a, 5b, 4c
This sounds good too; grooves and corners all the way.