Crag of the month - February
Crag of the month - February |
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Berryhill Crag - Northumberland |
Crag of the Month Index | |
This sandstone crag is an esoteric little gem and makes a nice change from Bowden Doors and Kyloe. Facing south it is a suntrap and dries very quickly after rain, but be aware the top of the crag always seems to be windy!! All three of my visits have been in the off season. (November, December & January) and we have had pleasant climbing conditions on all three occasions. Although the routes themselves are quite short 8-15m the ground falls away very steeply giving a feeling of greater exposure. The routes are well spread across the grades with good routes from Diff to HVS plus a couple of unlikely looking E4's. As usual in Northumberland the grades are very stiff and it's worth climbing with a grade in hand. Climbers of all grades could spend a pleasant few hours here and when you have exhausted the routes at your grade there is also some worthwhile bouldering. You will rarely find yourself sharing this crag with other climbers.
Northumberland Climbing Guide & Northumberland Bouldering (Northumbrian Mountaineering Club)
The crag is situated on Berryhill Farm, just off the B6354 about a mile north of the village of Etal. Permission to climb should be sought at the farmhouse. Never a problem when I've been there.
I've included only routes that I've actually climbed, or are obviously worthy of mention
Western Arete VS 4c
Feels like HVS and is steep and exposed with a poorly protected crux. Good though!!
Cheat VD
This route gives pleasant climbing up the South side of Western Arete. Protection where required.
Reiver's Way D
Good Value for Diff. Escapable from two-thirds height, otherwise an interesting move to get onto the final slab.
Slab Crack D
An excellent well protected route for novice leaders.
The Flutings VD
Lovely climbing, bold at the top without large hexes or large friends.
Hi Diddle Diddle HS 4b
A tricky start followed by nice climbing up the steep wall above.
Marcher Lord VS 5a
The classic of the crag is undoubtedly Marcher Lord. It takes the obvious steep crack in the middle of the crag to a cave which is hard to enter, arrange some very fiddly protection in an awkward position before surmounting the overhang on jugs. Very intimidating. Pumpy at the top.
Footsloggers Trip VS 4c
A physical start followed by lots of traversing left to reach an easier finish.
Slanting Crack S 4a
Nice climbing, shares the same start as the previous route, reachy in the middle.
Boulder Direct VS 5a
A delicate start leads to good protection under the lip, before an awesome move through the overhang to the top.
Death or Glory E4 5c & Do or Die E4 6a
The names say it all really.
Eastern Arete S
A steep but protected start leads to a beautifully exposed traverse out to the arete. An airy pull round onto the arete and jugs to the top. Brilliant.
Border Ballad HVS 5b
Looks like E3 from the ground. Need I say more.
Unnamed VS 5a
Coming down the descent path at the far end of the crag there is a short wall with two cracks. The righthand crack gives a good route. Poor protection.