Crag of the month - June
Dun Mingulay, Mingulay	Crag of the Month Index
This isolated sea cliff on the south-west of Mingulay provides some of the best sea cliff climbing in the country. The west facing section of the cliff at Sron an Duin forms a superb 90m wall of clean, vertical to overhanging rock which runs for 200m culminating on a huge arch. The crag is exceptional in quality and situation. OK not quite a local crag for most of us, but the commitment and adventure taken to reach this uninhabited island comes as part of the experience. The weather is often best early season in May and June and later in August and September. Mingulay has plenty of other exceptional climbing but Dun Mingulay is the gem. Guidebook
A few of the climbs appear in the SMC Skye and the Hebrides Guide – Volume 2. There are plans to publish an interim guide, but this has not yet happened. Information on many of the more recent routes can be found in the SMCJ, although this may not be comprehensive. Access A phenomenal abseil – exciting enough in its own right. The Routes Most of the routes are three pitches and breach the roof to the final section in outrageous situations. I’ve listed a spread of routes, but to be honest anything on this wall is worth climbing.
	Done Mingulay E2
	Voyage of Faith E3
	Sula E2

Children of Tempest 95m E1 5c
Takes the pillar bounding the north side of the wall. Fine intricate climbing up the bottom slabby wall and through the horizontal break. A few thin moves on the second present the crux.

Perfect Monsters 150m E7 6b
An awesome route. Well nice to know it’s there even if we wont be climbing it!

Les Voyageurs 120m E3 5c
A direct and fine line up the cliff which breaks through the roof on huge holds.

Voyage of Faith 125m E3 5c
An absolutely stunning line with intricate climbing throughout, plenty of atmosphere and exposure. The hardest moves come through the short hanging corner at the top, so save something for the final pitch.

Sula 100m E2 5b
Another fine direct line up the centre of the cliff. Delicate slab climbing on the second pitch provides the crux before climbing through the roof on huge flakes in a wild position.

Sirens 115m E2 5c
Takes a slightly easier line just right of The Silkie. The final roof can be climbed directly for more 5c climbing or more easily via a spectacular flake followed by jug hauling to the top.

On the southern most point of the headland:

Done Mingulay 70m E2 5b
The climbing starts up bold and steep moves. These accomplished, relax and enjoy the rest of the trip.

Fifteen Fathoms of Fear 50m Severe 4a
Yes really a severe. Just don’t abseil below the bottom of the route, as it certainly isn’t severe below it. A fabulous and intimidating route – you wont find may other routes quite like it at the grade.

A Few Fathoms More 50m VS 4c
Pleasant climbing with no surprises and what a setting!

If you don’t have your own boat, you’ll need to catch a ferry to Barra and then a local boat to Mingulay. You need to bring everything with you (and take it away at the end of your trip). Good camping can be found in Mingulay Bay on the east of the island.

Mingulay has some fabulous climbing and it’s remoteness means there is still some unclimbed rock. Sometimes the weather will be fabulous, but the island gets its fair amount of rain and wind, which can restrict climbing to a few sheltered areas.