Crag of the month - March 2003
Crag of the month - March 2003 |
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Almscliff |
Crag of the Month Index | |
God's Own Crag
Almscliff is regarded by many as the best crag in the world. Few who have visited will disagree. After regularly climbing here for over twenty years I still feel inspired on every visit.
Almscliff was present at the birth of climbing in Britain with the first recorded ascents by Cecil Slingsby in 1870. Since then many of the finest climbers of each generation have served their apprenticeship and plied their trade here, including Fred Boterill, Claude Frankland, Arthur Dolphin and Alan Austin.
Almscliff consists of two main faces, the High Man and the Low Man surrounded by countless boulders.
Yorkshire Gritstone, Millennium Edition, Yorkshire Mountaineering Club
Almscliff is situated about 1 mile from the Otley to Harrogate road (A659) about 10 miles north of Leeds (SE268490). It is best approached through North Rigton village until a minor road can be followed passing a farm to a large parking area 5 minutes walk
Almscliff stands like a fortress in lower Wharfedale. It is a true summit which was formed in the last ice age. The rock is clean and exceptionally sound gritstone, which because it is a summit carries no drainage and dries very quickly. The rocks are well rounded and so a proficiency in hand jamming is useful.
All of the routes described here are very well protected with a typical selection of cams and nuts.
Most routes vary in length from 6 to 18m
Selected routes are described in the three main areas: Low Man, High Man and The Boulders. There are very many high quality routes at Almscliff, those described here should provide a good days sport for any visiting climber and should leave a lasting impression.
Traditionally most climbers start off on low man where there are several good warm up routes.
Low Man Easy Way Diff
Traditional beginners route
V Chimney and Traverse V Diff
Nice exposed traverse using under-clings
Fluted Columns S 4a
Excellent Climbing for the grade
Square Chimney/Whisky Crack VS 4b
Very good combination, superb jamming in the final crack
Bird’s Nest Crack HS 4a
Well trodden route, proficiency in hand jamming needed
Birdlime Traverse HVS 5a
Very good and very well protected
Black Wall Eliminate E2 5c
Boulder problem start to reach the break then becomes steep and strenuous
Great Western HVS 5a
The classic of the crag. Intimidating and powerful. Used to only be given VS. Follow the right hand finish to make this the only 5 star route in the country.
Western Front E2 5b
Steep climbing to reach the crux of Great Western from beneath
Central Climb VS 4c
Nice steep jamming, well protected.
Overhanging Grooves VS 4c
Superb layback leads to delicate moves in the groove before finishing on huge jugs.
Finale Slab HVS 5a
Very delicate traverse leads to a pull through the overhang. Small wire needed to protect traverse.
Demon Wall HVS 5b
Long reaches between rounded horizontal breaks. Big cams needed.
Crack of Doom VS 4c
Companion route to Great Western, gives a good taste of it but not as difficult.
Wall of Horrors E3 5c
Steep and thuggy.
Frankland’s Green Crack VS 4c
Always strikingly green but don’t be put off by the colour. Watch out for the in situ pigeon.
Z Climb Eliminate HVS 5b
Interesting finger jams to start then becomes easier.
North-west Girdle HVS 5a
Very rarely done except perhaps mid-week. A very good trip but crosses many routes and attempting would incur much wrath from other parties. Normally completed in three pitches though these can be varied. Starts up Z Climb Eliminate and then traverses rightwards across all the major routes on the north-west face before reversing the crux of Great Western and finishing up Crack of Doom.
Long Chimney HVD 3c
The best of the chimneys at Almscliff
Parsons Chimney HS 4a
A very traditional chimney experience !!
There are more boulder problems than you can shake a stick at. Stand on a high vantage point and you will see many boulders all around. Go and climb all of them, scorn not even the smallest.