Crag of the month - May
Crag of the month - May |
|
|
Meall an Fhir-eoin Beag – Ardnamurchan |
Crag of the Month Index | |
If you enjoy friction and seek to avoid the crowds then this small crag has plenty to offer with two pitch routes from VD to E3. The crag lies within the volcanic ring-dyke complex known as the Ardnamurchan Ring and can be clearly seen from Achnaha on the road to Sanna Bay at the west end of Ardnamurchan. The rock is excellent rough gabbro.
There are two rock faces on Meall an Fhir-eoin. Beneath the summit, Creag an Fhir-eoin (NM 485 698), home to some shorter 25m routes from Diff to HVS and Meall an Fhir-eoin (NM 482 699), a subsidiary knoll. The buttress is split by protruding, blunt buttress resembling Darth Vader!
Climbs will appear in the new SMC Glencoe Guide due to out sometime in Spring 2002. Otherwise details can be found in SMCJ 1998. You’ll also need OS Map 47 to find your way around.
The footpath starts from the road at NM 469 677 just beyond where the road crosses the Allt Uamha na Muice. Follow this to the ruins of Glendrian and the crag beyond (1 hour). Best visited April-May or September onwards to avoid the midges.
Most of the routes are 50 – 60 m in length and climbed in two pitches. There are nearly 20 routes – the new Glencoe Guide should clear up the overlap on a couple of these.
Crater Comforts VS 4c
Enjoyable climbing up the crackline and whaleback running up the left side of the crag.
Volcane E1 5b
A fine route. A delicate and slabby first pitch up the crack line on a smooth wall (5a). A short ramp and a delicate step up and move to the right provides the crux, but what friction!
Trauma Crack E3 6a
Slightly contrived and less inviting but still enjoyable following the obvious crack on the right of the smooth central wall.
Magma Force E2/3 5c
An awkward move out of the groove gains the wide crack. Plenty to keep you occupied.
Vulcanised E2 5c
More fine climbing near the steepest part of the crag.
Night Falls E3 6a
Takes the prominent right slanting diagonal crack cutting though the steepest section of the crag. Superb friction and a superb jug as you pull out through the roof ensures success, if you are bold enough to give this a go. Alternative and more direct starts and finishes can be climbed taking Star Wars or Return of the Jedi (both E3).
Cuil Iolaire VS 4c
Rather outshone by its neighbour Yir.
Yir VS 4c
Another fine route and well worth the trip in for. Takes the prominent crack and slabby groove on the first rib. Some steep and fine moves get you established on an enjoyable outing.
Minky E2 5b
Thin and poorly protected climbing up the whaleback. Fine climbing if you like that kind of stuff!
Unnamed Severe 4b
The wide crack up the second rib. A stiff start, but the protection’s there. Belay beneath the headwall. Exit right to avoid the headwall if you have a strange inkling to avoid even more enjoyable climbing. Better still take the crack up the head wall. Well protected, but stiff for 4b!
An Toiseach VD
The crack up the third rib. Another enjoyable outing, slightly less gear near the top, but friction sees you romp your way home.
Oswald HS 4b
A slightly more technical climb up the third rib. Spice it up with an alternative and rewarding finish up Tremor Crack – steep and strenuous (E3 6a).
Oisean Bheag S
Allegedly a three star pitch up a right facing corner. Unfortunately all I could find was a vegetated corner that went at VD. Better luck finding it.
An Rathad Ard HS
Well protected and pleasant climbing up the higher of the two right slanting cracks.
An Rathad Losal S
More pleasant climbing up the lower of the cracks.
The Ardnamurchan Ring provides plenty of other climbing the best on Meall Mheadhoin, Coire na Raineach (NM 496 687), VD to E3, however Meall Mheadhoin’s proximity to nesting sites means you should not climb there between March and September. There is also climbing at Ardnamurchan Point – the best route, Whelk Route VS 4c, can only be climbed near low tide so make sure you don’t miss it.
Cheap camping can be had at both the Kilchoan Hotel and the Sonachan Hotel and it’s a long drive to the nearest recognised campsite at Resipol.