Crag of the month - May 2003
Crag of the month - May 2003 |
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Rannoch Wall |
Crag of the Month Index | |
No one in the Club should need an introduction to Rannoch Wall on Buachaille Etive Mor, but seeing that it is such a great place, we thought we would encourage to go back for some more. Here is a selection of routes from the wall that I’ve climbed or ventured onto.
Rannoch Wall from the Curved Ridge
Glencoe Guide published by the Scottish Mountaineering Trust or Kevin’s Howett’s rock climbing guide to Scotland
You can either park near the Lagangarbh Hut and climb up the well worn path past the Waterslide boulder or slog up the steeper Jacksonville Path. I prefer the former although an early start is a good idea to ensure a parking place.
If you don’t know already - the wall is on the South East Face of buttress that forms Crowberry Ridge. Looking at the mountain the wall is to the right of easy gully with Curved Ridge (the standard descent route) on the LHS. The rock is generally excellent although as with all high mountain crags care should always be taken. A serious accident a few years ago on Whortleberry Wall highlighted the fact that even big blocks can detach themselves from the mountain! Heavy winters can also mean that you can have problems getting onto the base of some of the rock routes. Seepage can also be a problem particularly on the LHS part of the crag.
Descent is usually made down via the Curved Ridge. Take care not to dislodge any rocks on the descent and also watch out for any detritus dislodged from the numerous scramblers and other “bumblers” ascending the ridge.
Selected routes are described left to right.
Wappenshaw Wall VS 4b
Alas I took the decision to attempt this route when the wall was still a bit wet. The route should start in the obvious corner. Severe seepage meant we were forced out right and into balancing tricks on the wall. The second pitch looks bold but was very wet. Fortunately we found an easy escape route of and up to the left.
Line Up HVS 5a
A superb route with interesting climbing all the way. The second pitch is probably the crux and involves some quite strenuous climbing into the roofed corner. Don’t trust any of the old pegs (if there are still any left) as they tend to snap!
Seconding the 1st Pitch of Line-Up (Climber - John Barrett)
Top pitch of Line-Up (Climber - Mark Gear)
Whortleberry Wall HVS 5a
Another superb line up and across Rannoch Wall. Gear is available but can be at a premium on a number of the pitches including the one shown below. For a competent leader the route provides for some interesting climbing and of course some great picture potential! I’m afraid though you’ll just have to do with Mark Gear instead!
On Whortleberry Wall ! (Climber - Mark Gear)
Satan’s Slit VS 4c
A good middle grade route towards the RHS of the wall.
January Jigsaw S
Beautiful climbing up the RHS of the wall. Far better than Agag’s Groove. The only fault with the climb is that it suddenly ends on the fourth pitch. Can be easily climbed in two pitches rather than the four described in the guide.
January Jigsaw (Climber Unknown)
Agag’s Groove VD-
Busy and disappointing ‘classic’ - although I’m sure someone will disagree with this view! Ascend the groove following the masses. Take a good book just in case! Stop at all the belays and admire the views and rain showers approaching over Rannoch Moor . Stare at the parties in front as they sort out their ropes and dither over numerous gear placements. Eventually leave the groove on the third pitch and enjoy the more exposed climbing on this and the next pitch.