Crag of the month - October
Crag of the month - October |
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Stone Valley Crags, near Loch Maree |
Crag of the Month Index | |
A series of superb single pitch crags of excellent Lewissian Gneiss in a beautiful position giving views into the north side of the Torridon hills and out across the sea to Skye and the Outer Hebridees. The crags face west and therefore pick up the afternoon and evening sunshine, ideal for the late riser. They dry quickly after rain, but midges can be a big problem in the summer so the best time to visit is April, May or October. There is a good spread of routes from VDiff to E4. Protection is excellent, lots of small wires is an advantage.
Gairloch; Gruinard Gniess Interim guide (published and available locally) There are some excellent laminated Topo cards with photos available at shops locally and in Edinburgh.
Park at the Red Barn (which is actually green!!!) beyond the north-west end of Loch Maree. The crags are clearly visible from the road. The best approach is to follow the land rover track for about ten minutes until you see an obvious bridge across the river. Cross the bridge and head straight up the hill for Rum Doodle Crag (allow 20 minutes), for Stone Valley Crag cross the bridge and trend further right aiming for the obvious silvery arete (allow 30 minutes). The walk-in is boggy and boots are recommended.
The descents are often down heathery gullies which collect a lot of moisture, not pleasant in rock boots,
I’ve only included routes that we’ve actually climbed, or are obviously worthy of mention the lengths vary from 10m to 40m. There are many other crags to choose nearby.
Totters Slab VD Pleasant Slab climbing about 20 metres left of Rum Doodle Arete, one of the few V Diffs at Stone Valley
Juniper Slab S 4a We didn’t climb this but it looks like a nice line immediately left of the arete with reasonable gear.
Rum Doodle Arete HS 4a A bold route with splendid friction but only adequate protection. An optional, but excellent short second pitch at 4b provides a good finish. A very good route.
Open Secret is the obvious route up the arete and I’ve described the position of each route from there.
Cheesegrater Slab VS 5a A short surprisingly well protected slab to the left of Open Secret makes an enjoyable preamble to the following two routes.
Hidden Agenda VS 4b/c A rather rambling line starting at the left side of the Touch & Go slab and taking a rising leftward traverse under the bulging wall above. Nice climbing, spaced protection.
Touch & Go VS 4c / HVS 5a Lovely moves up the steep slab and corner to arrive at the crux of Open Secret. A little bold until established in the corner. Soft for HVS bold for VS, maybe a compromise grade of HVS 4c might be best.
Craicin’ Fek VS 5a A recent addition, not in the guide. From the base of Cheesegrater Slab, looking to the left of the descent gully is a steep 10m wall seamed by two cracks. The right hand line gives the route, easy steps at first lead to a steep, fierce but well protected crack.
Feckin’ Craic HS Another new route arising from a direct attempt on the left hand crack, which got the better of the first ascentionist. The line of this rather scrappy route climbs the lower crack avoiding a loose block at the top, but avoids the main challenge of a direct ascent of the upper crack by utilising a large spike for the feet and handholds on the left wall. A direct ascent awaits, probably at least E1.
Open Secret HS Excellent well protected climbing in a great situation up the silvery arete so obvious from the road, this is a 3 star route. Can be split into two pitches, the first being V Diff. Would make an ideal first Hard Severe lead for those contemplating the step up.
Bald Eagle HVS 5a/b A nippy route nudging E1 on flawless rock up the slab to the right of Open Secret (a number one wire is essential for protecting the top slab).
Blood Feud E1 5b A great companion to Bald Eagle. Hard moves take the short bald wall behind a small tree right of Bald Eagle. Once conquered, relax a little and enjoy the fine slab above. The route finishes up the crack in the headwall slab.
Divided Loyalty HS 4b Away to the right of Open Secret a short scramble and bash up the heather brings you to the rather contrived line of Divided Loyalty. The climbing is interesting enough to make up for the rambling line and faff of the approach.
Updraught VS 4b Away to the right of Divided Loyalty is this good route. Start up a steep (often wet) wall with fiddly protection, a good sequence of moves lead to the to the top of the wall, step right and climb the slabby arete.