view from Carn Llidi
The St Davids Walk
St Davids to Bangor
Full route details
The Snowdon Horseshoe

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Finding your way around this page

This is a very long page. All the 23 day's details are here in order but the simplest way to locate the route details for a particular day is to go to the route map page and click on the right spot on the map. Then use the browser's back arrow (top left if you are using Explorer) to return to the map page to locate further days.

Rights of Way

Virtually all the route described below lies on legal rights of way (the few bits that don't cross open moorland where there is a tradition of unimpeded access). This means that no one can legally stop you from following the route.
As you may already know (from bitter experience) not all rights of way shown on the map can be easily followed. Some have become densely vegetated, bridges are broken down and farmers have placed barbed wire (illegally) to prevent cattle from straying.
We have therefore taken a lot of trouble to make sure that all rights of way described below can be followed at present and where there are special difficulties they are mentioned in the accompanying notes.
There will be places where an inviting looking right of way shown on the map appears to offer a better way than the one suggested. It may, indeed, do just that but it is very likely that we tried it and found it to be blocked.
Do try it, if you wish to take the risk of having to retrace your steps and if you are successful, or if you have any other comments to make, please email me, Michael Slaney, by clicking here

Day 1 - St David's to Trefine
distance from St David's 0.0 Km
St Davids cathedral                                                       SM 751 254
roads in close 0.5 Penitents' bridge 752 257
path - 'Pilgrims' Way' 0.9 road B4583 757 262
B4583 0.2 junction 758 261
minor road 1.9 Rhodiad 768 274
path 0.9 Rhos y gors 760 277
minor road 1.0 track on right 765 281
track 0.5 minor road 768 285
minor road 0.4 Treleidr 766 286
path 0.7 coastal path 764 292
coastal path 7.0 Abereiddy 798 313
coastal path 3.2 Porth Gain 815 326
coastal path ; 2.9 Trevine (old mill) ; 834 324
You could stay several days in this atmospheric little city, arranging transport to return each night. (For accommodation here and at the other places on the route, see the accommodation page)
There are many possible ways to start your walk; the one described leaves the Cathedral by the historic pilgrims' path, passing the Penitents' bridge and Feidr dwyll (the dark lane). Just before Rhodiad, the path meets the Ffôs y Mynach, the Monks' dyke, a raised path separating the "sacred" part of the area from the rest.
The Pembrokeshire coast path is reached at 764 292.
A comfortable day with no navigational problems

total for day 20.1 Km
distance from St David's 20.1 Km


Day 2 - Trevine to Pont-tre-tefa
distance from St David's 20.1 Km

start at Trevine (old mill)                                                SM 834 324
coastal path 4.8 Abercastle 853 337
coastal path 5.0 Aber Mawr (north end) 883 348
'white road' 1.3 Pont Fawr 892 348
road via Tre-llys Hill 2.1 bridleway crossing 906 355
path via standing stone 1.2 Rhos Clegyr 916 355
path 0.6 Clegyrn 916 360
farm access track 0.9 A487 920 342
A487 0.2 bridleway 918 341
bridleway 0.7 minor road 921 336
minor road 0.2 farm track 921 334
farm access track 1.0 Hendrefach 930 335
path over railway bridge 0.3 minor road 932 335
minor road 0.5 Pont tre tefa 930 332
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is followed to Aber Mawr and, as soon as it is left, paths shown on the map cease to exist on the ground. We were completely unable to follow our original chosen route in two places (no bridge and serious standing water) but the alternative given here which we eventually adopted is relatively straightforward with some barbed wire to climb in a few places near 918 341.
Easy walking with some careful navigation needed towards the end of the day.

total for day 18.8
distance from St David's 38.9 Km


Day 3 - Pont-tre-tefa to Ty-gwyn
distance from St David's 38.9 Km

start at Pont-tre-tefa                                                SM/SN 930 332
bridleway 2.3 Scleddau 944 342
minor road 1.6 Ffynonstown 953 352
bridleway 1.8 Crinei Brook 969 355
path via Llaneast 1.7 Cilgelynen Wood 978 347
path through Cilgelynen Wood 1.4 minor road 989 347
minor road 0.3 B4313 991 348
B4313 0.7 corner 998 350
minor road in Cwm Gwaun 3.3 Dyffryn Arms 027 341
minor road in Cwm Gwaun 1.3 Dan Coed turn off 036 340
bridleway via Penralltddu 2.3 Ty-gwyn 055 339
bridleway and road 0.2 path to Berth Gwynne 055 338
There appears to be a better route on the map passing through 954 347 on a clear right of way but it is blocked by bog and vegetation which we found to be impassable. The route given here is easy, however until 969 355 where care is needed, with a crucial problem at 978 347, the entrance to Cilgelynen Wood. You must find the correct opening to the wood after crossing an area of open country (here a GPS would be useful). Look for a stile just inside the wood.
Do not miss the Dyffryn Arms in the peaceful and beautiful Gwaun Valley at 026 341, a famous pub run by Bess, a well-known local figure who serves beer from a jug!
An interesting day concluding with a lovely, short climb out of the Gwaun Valley towards the Preseli Mountains

total for day 16.9
distance from St David's 55.8 Km


Day 4 - Ty-gwyn to Crymych
distance from St David's 55.8 Km

start near Ty-gwyn                                                        SN 055 338
bridleway and open moorland 2.3 Foel Eryr 066 321
path 1.0 B4329 075 322
bridleway 6.3 Carn Bica 130 325
bridleway 4.2 road near Llainbanal 167 332
minor road 1.7 A478 at Crymych 180 333
A478 0.7 Crymych centre 183 340
Day 4 is a top-class, invigorating trek across the Preseli ridge, the old drovers' Golden Road, with no problems of any sort, even in mist.
Do not miss the site of the Stonehenge blue-stones at Carn Menyn (142 324); sit and speculate on how they reached Salisbury Plain.

total for day 16.2 Km
distance from St David's 72.0 Km


Day 5 - Crymych to old school near Morlogws Uchaf
distance from St David's 72.0 Km

start at Crymych                                                            SN 183 340
A478 northwards 0.3 junction 184 342
road eastwards 0.3 start of track 186 341
track then path 2.0 edge of N Pembs map 200 335
edge of map 185 0.9 Penlan Isaf 208 335
bridle way 1.6 Glogue 216 325
road eastwards 0.6 right angle bend 222 325
track via Llwyn yr Hwrdd 1.8 school near Tegryn 234 329
road (0.1Km) then path 0.9 Pant Dwfn farm 239 334
track 0.5 Pant Dwfn Isaf 240 337
track, path, minor road 1.6 Star 246 350
minor road 1.0 church Tyddyn yr Eglwys 251 355
bridleway 0.8 Nant-y-castell 257 354
farm access road 0.4 minor road 257 351
minor road 2.8 Cwmcych (P.H.) 276 362
minor road 2.7 Cwmorgan 294 349
'white road' by Afon Cych 1.4 confluence of streams 294 337
scramble then path 0.6 Morlogws Isaf 298 337
path via Morlogws Uchaf 1.1 Old school 306 335
The next two-and-a-half days of walking traverse pleasant farming country where walkers are rarer than red kites. There are no signs or stiles but farmers are pleasant and helpful, provided that you are courteous and do not stray far from rights of way. Navigation is tricky and there is much barbed wire to be negotiated and wet valley bottoms to cross.
Difficulties start immediately on leaving Bwlch Clawdd Mawr farm (187 339); be punctilious in following the green line and do not wear your best trousers.
The only other serious difficulty is around 294 337 where you may have to force a route uphill left and through a wood to emerge on open fields with Morlogws Isaf in sight ahead

If you like this sort of thing you will find the day very enjoyable!

total for day 21.3 Km
distance from St David's 93.3 Km


Day 6 - Old school near Morlogws Uchaf to Bancyfford
distance from St David's 93.3 Km

start at Old school                                                          SN 306 335
minor road past Penwaun farm 0.4 cross roads 308 336
farm access track 0.5 Ty hen 312 333
path (becoming non-existent) 0.2 confluence of streams 313 332
path (non existent) 0.6 Blaensylgen 317 329
farm access track 1.2 B4299 328 331
B4299 north eastward 0.5 'white road' 332 334
'white road' 0.8 Rhyd y gwyn 340 333
B4333 0.4 path on left 343 332
path via Nantsais 1.4 road 350 337
path 1.1 Blaenantgwyn 361 338
farm access track 0.4 road 361 342
minor road south east 0.1 farm access on left 362 342
farm tracks past Rhyd yr onw 1.9 road 367 356
minor road 2.3 Rhos 380 355
minor road 0.6 farm access on right 384 357
farm track then obscure 0.6 road 386 353
minor road 0.4 T-junction 390 353
minor road 2.7 Rhydybennau 391 375
path (ploughed away) 0.5 road 396 375
minor road south east 0.6 path on left 400 371
path past Cnwc-yr-eithin 1.3 road 405 379
minor road 0.5 Bancyffordd 409 377
The general notes for yesterday also apply today (only more so!)
On leaving Ty hen by an encouraging stile, go downhill, slightly left, enter thick undergrowth and locate, 313 332 a beautiful and crucial spot where two streams meet. Follow the right of way (unmarked) carefully but deviate left (as the farmer has blocked the legal route) just before reaching Blaensylgen. Things then get easier until the path runs through an almost impenetrable wood at 358 338 where discretion suggest following an illegal alternative through the fields to the right.
(The valley bottom at 373 354 looks interesting but we found it impenetrable)
The final difficulty is reached at 395 377 where, after crossing a trackless field, a thick hawthorn hedge is crossed with a big drop on the far side. Here the writer of these notes had a brush with a working muck-spreader.
You may find navigation difficult today; tomorrow is little better but, after that, things become relatively straightforward!

total for day 19.0 Km
distance from St David's 112.3 Km


Day 7 - Bancyfford to Rhydcymerau
distance from St David's 112.3 Km

start at Bancyffordd                                                      SN 409 377
farm access 0.4 Blaencwm Farmyard 414 375
permissive route (right of farm) 0.5 stile in corner of field 417 376
way-marked path/track 0.7 Cwm Gwyddil ford 419 382
path 0.1 Pen Pyn Farch 421 383
path 0.3 T-junction 420 380
path 0.7 road 427 381
minor road south 0.7 path on left 428 375
path via Pen-y-graig 1.6 footbridge 438 383
path via Ty Newydd 1.0 road 444 384
road east and south 0.9 B4459 448 380
B4459 0.2 path on right 449 383
path 1.2 road 459 380
minor road northeastwards 0.8 near Ffynnonfelen 466 383
path 1.2 B4336 near Treetops 476 387
B4336 0.7 A485 (PH nearby) 482 389
various minor roads 2.1 Mountain Gate 503 391
unfenced minor road 1.7 Pen Llwyn-uchel 518 388
unfenced minor road 1.9 Mynydd Llanybyther 534 393
unfenced road through forest 2.2 exit from forest 555 395
minor road 3.0 B4337 577 389
B4337 0.3 Rhydcymerau 579 387
We had serious difficulties at the start in reaching the bottom of a deep wooded valley, the Nant Gwyddil. After much exploration we have now found a satisfactory route and you should have no difficulty if you follow it precisely as the most awkward stretch of the right of way is avoided by passing to the right of Blaencwm Farmyard (not a right of way - ask the farmer's permission, he is very helpful) You must then locate the stile at 417 376, currently marked with an arrow, and then all is straightforward, (stiles and waymarking) although the ford at 419 382 may be rather full of water.
After crossing the ford you should have no further problems until the "footbridge" at 438 383 which probably won't be there. You will probably get wet feet again. For 1 Km after 451 383 there are serious diffuculties at field boundaries caused by dense vegetation and barbed wire - almost the last such problem you will meet on the whole route
For the rest of the walk today, gates are available at field boundaries and the walk finishes with a fine, invigorating stretch of mountain road.

total for day 22.2 Km
distance from St David's 134.5 Km


Day 8 - Rhydcymerau to Caio
distance from St David's 134.5 Km

start at Rhydcymerau                                                     SN 579 387
minor road 2.1 bridge, Afon Marlais 589 399
minor road via Maestyle 2.5 Glan Tawe 608 403
minor road 0.6 bridge, Nant Tawe 613 403
minor road, south 0.2 Groes 613 402
bridleway 2.9 Cwm Einon Fawr 636 392
farm track (?) minor road 1.1 Cefntelich Lodge 643 392
minor road, south 0.7 T junction 646 386
minor road via Froodvale 1.5 A482, Derwen Fawr 657 392
A482 via Pont ar Annell 1.6 cross roads 665 384
minor road 1.4 bend 674 391
path (with kissing gates!) 1.0 Caio (PH) 676 399
Comfortable walking along quiet lanes for much of the day with a fine crossing of high ground by a bridleway from Groes. At the top, in the vicinity of 623 402, you may find that the farmer has posted intimidating signs but there is no serious problem. We found the pub shut at Pont yr Annell but the filling station opposite has a good little shop.
The last kilometre to Caio is bliss: old kissing gates and a sweet path leading right into the centre of the village. You are in walking country again.

total for day 15.6 Km
distance from St David's 150.1 Km


Day 9 - Caio to Nant-y-Bai nr Rhandirmwyn
distance from St David's 150.1 Km

start at Caio                                                                  SN 676 399
minor road 0.4 Bron-ffin 678 402
track, east via Coed y Frena 1.0 enter Caio Forest 686 404
path, northeast in forest 2.7 exit from Caio Forest 702 421
path over moorland 1.8 Rhyd Ddu 713 431
bridleway, north 0.5 corner of forest 712 435
bridleway over moorland 3.4 Mynydd Mallaen 736 447
bridleway over moorland 3.8 cross path 766 437
path, north 1.5 Maes-llwyn-y-fyddau 765 449
back along minor road 0.5 Rhandirmwyn bridge (PH) 767 447
B road, over bridge 0.3 Road junction, Broncwrt 769 449
B road, southeast 0.8 Nant-y-bai 776 446
You start by walking up-hill through Caio Forest and the a fine traverse of a splendid, deserted piece of high ground, Mynydd Mallaen No problems in route finding here if the cloud is high but if the cloud is low you must take great care after leaving the forest.
At Rhyd ddu, we found it necessary to cross a deep stream, more like a lake some years ago but now considerably improved thanks to the Pontarddulais Walking Club. The summit cairn is a fine spot for lunch and a rest with big views forward and back. On the way down, at 766 437 most people seem to go straight down to the road (no actual right of way) Our route here, from 766 437 to 765 449, following a right of way is indistinct and involves perhaps the last serious barbed wire and undergrowth of the whole 23 days. Celebrate this with a drink and chat with the local farmers at the pub at Rhandirmwyn bridge

total for day 16.7 Km
distance from St David's 166.8 Km


Day 10 - Nant-y-Bai nr Rhandirmwyn to Nant y Maen
distance from St David's 166.8 Km

start at Nant-y-bai                                                          SN 774 446
road 1.9 bridge at Gallt-y-bere 772 459
over bridge 0.2 Gallt-y-bere 772 460
minor road 3.5 Troed-rhiw-ruddwen 771 478
bridleway by Afon Doethie 5.2 Nant Lluest-fach 772 516
bridleway 2.1 Nant Llwyd 784 524
bridleway 1.8 Soar y Mynydd 785 534
minor road 6.3 Tregaron/Abergwesyn rd 763 576
minor road west 0.3 bridge near Nant y Maen 762 577
Completely straightforward with very varied scenery and an interesting historic chapel. At 776 464 you should walk a few paces to your right to get a famous view of "Junction Pool" where the rivers Tywi and Doethe meet with much froth and fury. The chapel at Soar y Mynydd, the most remote in Wales, is very famous. Services are still held there on Sunday afternoons.

total for day 21.3 Km
distance from St David's 188.1 Km


Day 11 - Nant y Maen to Pontrhydfendigaid
distance from St David's 188.1 Km

start near Nant y Maen                                                  SN 762 577
bridleway north 0.9 Nant y Maen 762 585
bridleway west 0.5 bridleway junction 758 585
bridleway northwest 1.8 ford over Camddwr 751 593
bridleway 2.8 ridge near Garn Gron 742 610
bridleway 2.5 forest entry 741 628
bridleway through forest 2.3 leave forest 745 647
track 0.4 Talwrn 745 649
track (stream?) 1.2 Strata Florida 746 657
path beside Teifi 2.2 Ponrhydfendigaid 730 666
. The first section of the walk as far as 741 628 lies across easy, open moorland, wild and beautiful. If the cloud base is low, please take great care over navigation. A small detour to the summit of Garn Gron is very well worth the effort and the cairn makes an excellent lunch break. The location of the forest entry at 741 628 is crucial and without a GPS take great care. The safest thing is to walk down the forest boundary until you come to the obvious right of way entry point. There may be some uncertainty at Talwrn but you won't get into serious difficulty. Do stop to look at the abbey at Strata Florida and at the grave of Dafydd ap Gwylim in the churchyard next door.

total for day 14.6 Km
distance from St David's 202.7 Km


Day 12 - Pontrhydfendigaid to Cwmystwyth
distance from St David's 202.7 Km

start at Ponrhydfendigaid                                               SN 730 666
path beside Teifi 2.0 footbridge 746 658
minor road (Teifi pools walk) 3.3 junction near Tyn Cwm 770 655
track, bridleway 3.1 Llyn Egnant dam 791 667
track north 1.9 T-junction 794 680
open moorland 2.0 Llyn Du (SW end) 799 697
open moorland 1.5 Llyn Fyrddon Fawr east 802 708
open moorland 1.9 track in Nant Milwyn 801 726
track 0.8 Milwyn cottage 796 729
track via Tynewydd 1.6 bridge 789 737
'white road', road 0.4 road on right 789 740
minor road 1.5 Tainewyddion Uchaf 791 749
You start by retracing your steps towards Strata Florida and then there is easy walking to 794 680. A great psychological moment is then reached when you have to start walking across a wild, trackless moor towards an invisible objective. This is one of the best moments of the whole walk and the Lake is not all that easy to find as it lies above the land you are on and remains invisible until you are almost on it. Careful navigation is essential until you have sight of Cwmystwyth, particularly if the cloud is low.
The route then goes uphill to an excellent accommodation address (see the accommodation page details for day 13

total for day 20.0 Km
distance from St David's 222.7 Km


Day 13 - Cwmystwyth to Ponterwyd
distance from St David's 222.7 Km

start at Tainewyddion uchaf                                            SN 791 749
minor road 0.3 path off left 791 752
path 0.2 same minor road 790 753
minor road 0.8 edge of forest 783 752
path past Gelmast 2.4 The Arch 765 755
road 0.1 track off left 764 756
track 3.1 Rhostyddn Fach 738 762
road (B4343) 0.3 bend 736 764
bridleway, path 0.9 Devils Bridge 737 769
A4120 west 0.7 path on right 735 770
path down through wood 2.0 footbridge 727 782
road, track south east 1.0 bend back left 734 777
track sharp left steep up 0.9 T-junction at top 737 782
minor road 0.6 Ystumtuen 735 786
minor road 0.5 Ty-hir 739 789
path 2.2 Bryn-bras 747 801
farm access track 0.8 George Borrow hotel 746 805
Today's route offers a wide variety of terrain with one or two places where the right of way is difficult to follow on the ground. With care you should have no trouble until after Devils Bridge where the path in the wood in the vicinity of 735 770 has been changed from the route shown on the map. There is a clear sketch map posted showing the change.
The other major problem occurs when you are going downhill at 746 792 where the left turn uphill is not at all clear. We could find no trace of a path from that point until reaching the farm access track at 747 901.
The Arch, see photo and the River Rheidol near 727 782, see photo are both great spots for breaks..
Devils Bridge, itself is an overpopulated pourist spot but the famous triple bridge at 742 771 see photo is well worth a visit and only needs a fifteen minute diversion.
The George Borrow Hotel (see day 14 accommodation) is a peaceful and romantic place, full of associations with the great George Borrow who stayed there after walking south from Machynlleth over Plynlimon as you are going to do in the reverse direction tomorrow!.

total for day 16.8 Km
distance from St David's 239.5 Km


Day 14 - Ponterwyd to Esgair Hir
distance from St David's 239.5 Km

start at George Borrow hotel                                          SN 746 805
A44 through village 0.6 A4120 749 808
A4120 0.3 Bryn Rheidol 751 807
bridleway 1.0 Banc Bryn-chirith 759 810
B4343 1.7 A44 771 814
A44 0.5 Dyffryn Castell 775 817
path 1.9 Blaenpaithnant forest 781 832
path 2.2 N end of forest 784 851
path 2.2 Plynlimon summit 790 870
open hillside 0.5 minor coll 788 874
open hillside 1.1 bend in pipeline 786 885
open country 0.7 foot bridge 785 891
bridleway 2.6 ruin by A Llechweddmawr 762 889
bridleway 0.6 ford at Nant-y-March 761 894
bridleway 1.0 ford at Nant-y-Ci 758 902
bridleway 0.7 enter forest 753 905
bridleway 2.2 leave forest 735 912
bridleway 0.4 Esgair Hir old mine 732 912
Plynlimon is, in my view, much underestimated. It has wildness, solitude, wonderful views and historical associations as well as being the great watershed of Wales. If the day is fine, the walk over Plynlimon is not to be missed. If the weather is awful, however, and you don't like high country in mist, you have the (poor) option of skipping the highest part of the day by following the minor road from 748 808 right through to Maesnant at 775 882, continuing straight on to meet the given route at "footbridge" 785 891. Don't do this unless conditions are terrible - you will probably be sorry in retrospect!
The 2.6 Km from the footbridge to the ruin was very rough and slow when we did it but conditions improve dramatically from then onwards.
See the accommodation page, day 15 for details of the problems at Esgair Hir

total for day 20.2 Km
distance from St David's 259.7 Km


Days 14/15 "Two days in one" alternative - Ponterwyd to Machynlleth
avoiding the transport problem at Esgair Hir

distance from St David's 239.5 Km

start at George Borrow hotel                                                      SN 746 805
A44 through village 0.6 A4120 749 808
A4120 0.3 Bryn Rheidol 751 807
bridleway 1.0 Banc Bryn-chirith 759 810
B4343 1.7 A44 771 814
A44 0.5 Dyffryn Castell 775 817
path 1.9 Blaenpaithnant forest 781 832
path 2.2 N end of forest 784 851
path 2.2 Plynlimon summit 790 870
open hillside 0.5 minor coll 788 874
open hillside 1.1 bend in pipeline 786 885
open country 0.7 foot bridge 785 891
track north 4.0 un-named building 782 926
track west 2.0 over shoulder of Mynydd Bychan 768 922
track north 2.0 300m NE of Hafodwnog 765 939
track 2.6 Bwlch y Groesen 767956
keep on north west 2.3 Mynydd Bach 756 972
track via Bwlch 0.7 Bryn Coch Bach 754 977
track steep NNW 0.5 forest 756 980
track in forest along ridge 1.5 forest exit near Parc 757 964
path NNW 1.5 near industrial estate 754 006
minor road = Glyndwr's Way 0.5 A489, Machynlleth 751 008
A489 0.1 Maenllwyd Guest House 751 008
This is a long day for most people. Its principal merit is that it avoids the difficulty of arranging transport to and from Esgair Hir.
Most of the route is covered by the notes to the previous and next days. The new stretch, 8 Km from 785 891 to 765 939 is all quite straighforward
If you are getting very tired by the time you reach the junction of tracks at Bwlch y Groesen, you can take a safe option by walking straight down to Tyddyn y Plas 774 963, and then to Machynlleth along the minor road. Easier route finding, easier terrain but not such a good walk.

total for day 30.4 Km
distance from St David's 269.9 Km
If you have used this alternative, all subsequent distances from St Davids will be 5.8 Km less than indicated


Day 15 - Esgair Hir to Machynlleth
distance from St David's 259.7 Km

start at Esgair Hir old mine                                        SN/SH 732 912
forest/miners' track 3.0 Angler's Retreat 746 923
track 1.7 Llyn Penrhaiadr N end 754 935
cross country 0.6 miners' track 759 934
miners' track 0.7 Hafodwnog 763 938
track 2.9 Bwlch y groesen 767 956
keep on north west 2.3 Mynydd Bach 756 972
track via Bwlch 0.7 Bryn Coch Bach 754 977
track steep NNW 0.5 forest 756 980
track in forest along ridge 1.5 forest exit near Parc 757 964
path NNW 1.5 near industrial estate 754 006
minor road = Glyndwr's Way 0.5 A489, Machynlleth 751 008
A489 0.1 Maenllwyd Guest House 751 008
The charm of today's fairly short walk lies in the gradual transition from wild mountain scenery to civilization in the shape of the quite large town of Machynlleth.
There are no serious route finding problems until Bwlch y Groesen, although the section marked "cross country" is a trackless link joining two clear tracks. However, take great care at Bwlch y groesen , where many tracks meet. The correct one is outside the wood, going fairly steeply uphill.
The scenery as you approach Machynlleth is very good, particularly, perhaps, near Mynydd Bach.
You may not find exactly the route we found as you approach the town but it will not matter much.

total for day 16.0 Km
distance from St David's 275.7 Km


Day 16 - Machynlleth to Abergynolwyn
distance from St David's 275.7 Km

start at Machynlleth B and B                                            SH 751 008
A489 0.6 Machynlleth clock 745 008
A487 1.4 Dovey bridge 744 020
A493 0.3 turn off on left 741 019
lane 0.9 Cwm Gila 736 023
lane (left fork) 0.9 enter forest 733 028
forest track, old road 1.6 Pantyspydded (ruin) 728 040
forest track 2.0 near Foel y Geifr 720 052
open hillside 0.5 Foel y Geifr summit 716 051
open hillside, forest path 1.8 Pont Llaeron 701 049
path/old road 2.2 Hendrewallog 687 063
track, surfaced road 1.3 Abergynolwyn 677 069
road through village 0.3 Riverside house 676 072
Leaving Machynlleth on a main road is not much fun but unavoidable. This is the worst traffic you will meet on the whole route.
The lengthy forest section is better than you might expect: much of the forest has been felled and there are some good views. Once in the forest you can work out your own way to Pantspydded, The most direct passes 728 035, where it is easy to miss a left fork. There is a further point of uncertainty just before the open hillside at 720 052 where we actually used a fire break to attain the open ground.
The ridge of Foel y Geifr offers superb view forward and back and is a place to linger over.
From there to the delightful old bridge at Pont Llaeron, you can more or less make your own way but a good track goes through the forest if you find it.
As you descend, Abergynolwyn looks most inviting. See the picture

total for day 13.8 Km
distance from St David's 289.5 Km


Day 17 - Abergynolwyn to Barmouth
distance from St David's 289.5 Km

start at Riverside House                                                  SH 676 072
road 4.3 Pennant farm 674 096
bridleway via Gwastadfryn 3.4 Hafotty Gwastadfryn 678 123
Pony path 2.8 col (Cader Idris 2 Km) 691 135
path 1.0 junction left 695 142
path 1.2 road 690 150
minor road 1.4 path off right 678 145
path past Llyn Cregennen 1.3 road at far end 659 146
winding gated road 1.8 Arthog falls 648 145
path beside falls 0.3 Arthog 646 146
road through Arthog 0.8 bridleway off right 638 143
bridleway 0.2 old railway 638 144
old railway bed 1.3 Morfa Mawddach Stn 628 142
Barmouth railway bridge 1.7 Barmouth 619 155
road 0.4 Bryn Melin Hotel 620 158
A great day's walk, particularly if you have the energy to include the summit of Cader Idris by going right at 691 135, following the easy ridge for just over 2 Km and therefore adding slightly more than 4 Km to the day's distance When deciding whether to do this or not, bear in mind that the detour involves an ascent of 300 m but that the rest of the day, though quite long, is very easy with virtually no more up-hill.
The rest of the day is full of interest. Arthog falls are delightful and the Barmouth railway bridge gives romantically beautiful view of the Mawddach estuary.

total for day 21.9 Km
distance from St David's 311.4 Km


Day 18 - Barmouth to Llyn Cwm Bychan
distance from St David's 311.4 Km

start at Bryn Melin Hotel                                                SH 620 158
minor road 3.5 Sylfaen 632 185
track 2.2 path crossing 638 203
path 2.3 Cairn (alt 572m) 638 224
path on old coach road 2.1 Pont Scethin 634 236
bridleway 2.7 Road in Cwm Nantcol 631 257
minor road 2.7 Nantcol 640 273
path? 2.7 Llyn Gloyw (south end) 647 297
path 2.5 Llyn Cwm Bychan 646 316
This interesting route is probably the easiest way of getting across the Rhinogs. If you want something tougher, try the alternative below.
Before reaching Pont Scethin, an extraordinary bridge in the middle of nowhere (see the picture) you pass a stone saying "Courage Traveller", a timely piece of encouragement.
After walking out of Nantcol, the terrain suddenly changes completely and becomes really difficult - the notorious Rhinog boulders and heather - you will find progress very slow until you leave Llyn Gloyw on a decent track leading to the so-called "Roman Steps.

total for day 20.7 Km
distance from St David's 332.1 Km


Day 18 and part of day 19, alternative route - Barmouth to Trawsfynydd
avoiding the transport problem at Llyn Cwm Bychan at the end of day 18

distance from St David's 311.4Km

start at Bryn Melin Hotel                                                SH 620 158
minor road 3.5 Sylfaen 632 185
track 2.2 path crossing 638 203
path 2.3 Cairn (alt 572m) 638 224
ridge, northeast 2.8 Diffwys trig point 661 268
ridge NE then NW 3.2 Y Llethr cairn 661 258
descending ridge northeast 1.2 col 666 266
descending traverse 0.5 Llyn Hywel, NW corner 662 268
path past Llyn Cwmhosan 1.6 Bwlch Drws Ardudwy 660 280
path through bwlch 0.8 Y junction 665 282
left fork, NE to forest 1.0 enter forest 670 291
forest tracks 3.0 Hafod Gynfal 676 314
leave forest, path north 2.3 Wern fach 682 333
track 0.7 road 687 335
road 2.6 Trawsfynydd foot bridge 702 348
foot bridge, path 1.0 Trawsfynydd 707 354
This alternative route is given to avoid the problems of transport at Llyn Cwm Bychan, where there is no accommodation. It follows the standard route above as far as 638 224 but then continues along the ridge, culminating in Y Llethr, the highest point on the Rhinog range. After leaving the summit cairn, do not go left down a steep eroded descent which leads to a path round the left side of Llyn Hywel; continue to the end of the summit plateau and descend a gully to the col, walk all the way across the col until Rhinog fach looms in front of you and then drop steeply to the left, passing to the right of Llyn Hywel. If you want to climb Rhinog fach, do so from the col. It is safer then to return to the col rather than to traverse Rhinog fach
A GPS is strongly recommended for the forest section. The area North of the forest leading to Wern Fach is usually extremely wet and you will be faced by a network of small streams.
This is a long day but the scenery near Llyn Hywel is top class.

total for day 28.9 Km, compared with 30.5 via Cwm Bychan
distance from St David's 340.3 Km
If you take this alternative, all subsequent totals from St Davids will be 1.1 Km less than indicated


Day 19 - Llyn Cwm Bychan to Pont Dol y Moch
distance from St David's 332.1 Km

start at Llyn Cwm Bychan                                               SH 647 316
dotted path 0.6 right of way 646 318
path 2.1 col at about 450m 659 333
path 2.8 Wern fach 682 333
track 0.7 road 687 335
road 2.6 Trawsfynydd foot bridge 702 348
foot bridge, path 1.0 Trawsfynydd 707 354
road 0.8 crossing A470 708 361
path/track 3.9 near Roman fort 708 389
bridleway 1.8 crossing A470 705 404
bridleway 1.1 Cynfal waterfall 706 412
path above river 2.3 Pont Tal-y-bont 687 416
minor road 0.2 rubble park nr bridge 687 416
It is not easy to find the path at the start but it is there. Be patient. There are no further navigational difficulties although just before reaching Wern fach (where the ground is extremely wet) you may find yourself in difficulties getting past a maze of streams. Trawsfynydd lake is pleasant but not outstanding and Trawsfynydd itself is a tiny, typical Welsh village. The Roman Fort is worth a short detour but the best point on the walk is the little-known Cynfal waterfall, remote and beautiful - once quite a famous tourist spot.
An easy day but very wet just before Wern fach.

total for day 19.9 Km
distance from St David's 352.0 Km


Day 20 - Pont Dol-y-Moch to start of Watkin Path
distance from St David's 352.0 Km

start near bridge                                                            SH 687 416
minor road 2.6 path beyond Bronturnor 665 412
path in woods 1.4 Llyn Mair 655 412
road (B4410) 0.6 Near Tan-y-bwlch Stn 651 414
through station 0.3 road 649 416
minor road 4.2 Croesor 631 447
path on old road 2.6 Bwlchgwernog 611 452
minor road 2.0 Nantmor 598 461
old railway 0.1 gate on left 597 462
path 0.2 Pont Aberglaslyn 595 462
path, E side of river 0.4 link to old railway 594 466
old railway 0.9 Ynys Dol-lleian 592 474
path 1.2 road 593 484
minor road 1.4 Sygun mine 604 489
path 3.0 past Llyndy Isaf 628 502
minor road, then A498 0.7 car park nr Watkin Path 629 627
You are now approaching the major mountains of Wales and days 21 and 22 give you lots of opportunity, weather permitting, to enjoy real mountain scrambling. This day is designed as a rest day and, although the distance is over 20 Km, it is a very easy day indeed.
The route originally included the old railway tunnels at Pont Aberglaslyn but work is now well in hand here on the Welsh Highland Railway which will restore these tunnels to their former use so they are no longer open to walkers. We have therefore modified the route to include a beautiful short river walk instead. (Try the Welsh Highland Railway route website for further information).
At 592 481 you can walk left into Beddgelert, a tourist honeypot only 100 metres from the route. (see the accommodation page)
If all this is too easy and you want to climb something today you can turn right at the top of the hill after leaving Croesor and follow the easy ridge to the top of Cnicht, returning by the way you ascended. Cnicht looks very spectacular from Croesor but is actually a simple walk.

total for day 21.6 Km
distance from St David's 373.6 Km


Day 21 - Start of Watkin Path to Pen-y-Gwryd
distance from St David's 373.6 Km

start at car park                                                              SH 628 507
'white road' 1.0 Hafod-y-llan 629 513
track 0.8 path nr Llyn Gwynant 635 515
path 3.9 electricity works 654 541
track 2.1 layby nr Pen-y-Gwryd 660 557
The route given here does not follow the Watkin Path to the top of Snowdon but offers agreeable, easy walking, ideal when the cloud base is low. If conditions are better, however, and you don't need an easy day, you will want to walk over Snowdon, or at least over Lliwedd. There are basically three possible routes, all of which start by following the Watkin path as far as the col at Bwlch Ciliau 619 537. Here, the easiest alternative goes right over Lliwedd 626 532 and then down to Pen-y-Pass 647 556. If, instead, you go left at the bwlch and climb steeply, you reach the summit of Snowdon 610 544, and follow the railway down to 608 547, where you may either leave the ridge and descend right (by the miners track) to Pen-y-Pass 647 556, or, if you have plenty of energy and a good steady head, you may continue along the ridge to Crib-y-Ddysgl 611 553 and Crib Goch 625 553, again finishing at Pen-y-Pass 647 556. Of these alternatives, the last is undoubtedly the best. At Pen-y-Pass, do not walk down to the Pen-y-Gwrhyd. Finish the day at Pen-y-Pass (see the accommodation page) and on day 22 walk the modified start (see the next days detailed notes

total for day 7.8 Km
distance from St David's 381.4 Km


Day 22 - Pen-y-Gwryd to Ogwen Cottage
distance from St David's 381.4 Km

start at layby near hotel                                                  SH 660 557
road (A498/A4086) 0.4 start of miners' track 661 559
path 2.7 Glyder ridge 667 583
path 1.0 Bwlch Tryfan 662 588
path 2.3 Ogwen Cottage car park 649 604
As on day 21, the route given here is ideal for low cloud. If the cloud base is high you will probably prefer to continue from 6678 578 straight to the top of Glyder Fach 656 683 and across the roughest mountain terrain in Wales to Glyder Fawr 643 579, descending to the right of Llyn y Cwn and, leaving the high plateau at 639 587, walk past Llyn Idwal (either side) to Ogwen Cottage
If you finished day 21 at Pen-y-Pass, you will not need to go down to Pen-y-Gwryd to start your day but will climb gently from the Hostel , leaving Llyn Cwmffynnon on your left and contouring round to join the standard route at about 662 567

total for day 6.4 Km
distance from St David's 387.8 Km


Day 23 - Ogwen Cottage to Bangor Cathedral
distance from St David's 387.8 Km

start at Ogwen Cottage car park                                    SH 649 604
minor road 5.3 Bridge near Tyn-y-maes 633 643
path 1.2 A5 nr Plas Penisarnant 631 652
main road 0.5 Ogwen Bank 627 654
path in quarry 0.8 start of cycle track 623 656
cycle track 1.5 end of cycle track 615 663
minor road, then B4409 0.8 path near Tanysgaffell 614 668
path 1.1 road near Braich-talog 607 674
minor road 0.4 path 607 677
path 0.5 Tregarth pub 605 679
road (B4409) 0.5 start of cycle track 601 680
cycle track 4.1 road nr Tyddyn-mynyddig 587 707
minor roads 1.5 path nr water co. site 581 716
path 0.5 Bangor 581 718
small town roads 0.3 Bangor cathedral 581 721
This is a much more interesting day than it appears on the map. Easy navigation for the most part and some fascinating quarry scenery. The cycle track, which makes the day unique, is not shown on the map. Incidentally, we saw no cyclists. The route finishes by neatly arriving in Bangor without using any roads until you are only 100 metres from the Cathedral.
Tregarth pub was not open at lunch time when we were there, but the landlord obligingly opened specially for us!

total for day 19.0 Km
distance from St David's 406.8 Km