As the coastal path navigates around Cliftonville, it begins its sweep to the south - which on an autumnal afternoon meant I had the sun in my eyes for the remainder of the walk. The journey from Margate to Broadstairs also shows a marked change in social profile - from the grim 50's seaside resort to the mansions of Cliff Promenade just outside the picturesque and historic town of Broadstairs. In between are some amazing beaches - including Botany, Kingsgate and Joss Bay - which must get packed in the summer.

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History of the area

"Meregate", as it was known in 1264, found its current name first in 1299, and now has 60k inhabitants. This is where the Spanish Armada planned to land if they'd managed to get across the channel. Probably initially drawn by the long sandy beach, they could have topped up their tan in one of the numerous salons along the promenade, filled up on a quick pizza or kebab, and spent a few pesetas in the amusement arcades - before rampaging around Kent in search of some civilisation to plunder.

Margate's history was shaped as a member of the Confederation of Cinque Ports - an organisation dating to the 12th century. There were 5 ports, 7 "limbs" (of which Margate was one), and 23 other towns/villages - whose role it was to provide men and ships in times of war, and transport to the King and his armies. In return, a charter was signed which gave tax exemptions and other perks to residents - and effectively turned a blind eye to smuggling Ports (blue): 1-Sandwich; 2-Dover; 3-Hythe Not shown: New Romney, Hastings Limbs (yellow): 1-Faversham; 2-Margate; 3-Ramsgate; 4-Deal; 5-Folkestone Not shown: Lydd, Tenterton Base map of image (C) Google Maps

In 1816 steamboats arrived at Margate, beginning the tourist industry which would support it for the next 200 years. This was further aided by the development of the railways - first in 1846, when the line from Ashford was completed, via Ramsgate; then in 1863 by the direct North Kent coast line to London. The former was closed in 1923 and the Thanet loop was created, allowing travel around the NE Kent coast.

Other claims to fame are that Margate was the first resort to have donkey rides (1890) and to provide deck chairs (1898). A Jetty was also built in the 1950's, but was wrecked in the 1978 storm and later demolished. The town's Dreamland amusement park was opened in 1920, and has the UK's oldest surviving rollercoaster - Scenic Railway - which is now a Grade II listed structure. Unfortunately the future isn't too bright for the park, and in recent years has been open for only the summer months - with over zealous property developers champing at the bit, it will probably end up the same way as Stockport's amusement park (which is currently being demolished)

The walk - Margate to Foreness Pont

Whilst Reculver to Birchington wins in the boring stakes, Margate to Foreness Point get full marks in the ugly contest. A series of depressing grey and brown-brick buildings make up the delapidated seafront - to be suceeded by uninspiring beaches with a penchant for wide concrete walkways and seemingly abandoned buildings. To be fair it was Novemeber - and things are probably a lot better under a July sun - but there was just a general feeling of loss along this 4km stretch.