Lucia - 2004
Lymfiord - Stralsund - Big Belt - Little Belt

6 July Fri

Dep Hoo

12.10 BST

Arr. Harwich 21.10

At Last we are just about ready. We crossed the river and picked up fuel. Beautiful sunny warm weather and the wind behind us for a lovely sail across the Thames estuary. We went through the spitway and on up the east coast to Harwich. We tied up at Halfpenny pier for the night. Heated up the boat stew for a good hot meal.

17 July Sat

Dep Harwich 9.35 BST

Arr. Lowestoft

16.30

A quiet night except for a little swell.  Facing the pier was a large imposing building which had been a hotel in the days of the liners but now is apartments. The facade had wonderful cameo type carvings along the front.   We had a wander round the surrounding streets and were surprised how quaint and attractive they were with flowers spilling onto the pavement in places. On one street there was a mural along the back wall the whole length of the street and in another was the original electric theatre which was being revived to its former glory and had reopened as a cinema. We returned to the boat and set out for Den Helder but what wind there was on the nose, the opposite to the forecast, and then it started to rain too so we diverted Lowestoft for a good fish and chip dinner in the Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht club. We went for a walk along the front and just got back before the thunderstorm. 

The gent's in the RNS YC are very posh having a polished copper tank over the urinals and a shield on each toilet door. The ladies on the other hand is plain and only two toilets but five showers?

18 July Sun

Lowestoft

Rain, rain, rain and no wind!! I have been busy painting all day (Lost Buoys, Harwich) and Barry has been pottering. He has been shopping. I think we might have a DVD tonight, we know how to live it up. We hope for better things tomorrow but the weather forecast is not too promising.

19 July Mon Lowestoft Dep 10am

A better day. The sun is shining and the wind has gone round to the west but not very strong. We make a leisurely start. We have a good sail for about thirty miles nearly a quarter of the way but the wind started to die so we put the engine on. Just before this we heard a sound over the side of the cockpit and there were three large dolphins swimming up to play under the bows.We followed them and had a wonderful time watching their acrobatics. They would turn on their side and look up at us. All too soon our speed started to drop and they got fed up and departed. About half an hour later when we turned the engine on they came back to check us out and one of them stayed to play turning on his side and then swimming on his back as we travelled at about 6 knots. We then settled down for a quiet night. Very few big ships thankfully.

20 July  Tues Den Helder arr 6 am BST 7am Local

The strong Easterly winds that were forecast later in the night did not materialise and we had a good run into Den Helder through the brightly lit gas fields. After moving the boat twice in the marina we are in our berth for the night. A good sleep and I’m back to the painting (Big ship and buoy)!! Barry was disappointed that the good looking lady harbour master has left and been replaced by the “Harbour Monster”. Immigration visited and checked details and passports. A bit different from 2000 when I got to Finland before I showed my passport.

21 July Wed

Dep Den Helder

Arr East Vleiland

We hired bikes from the marina, (big old fashioned Dutch ones). The big problem was that the brakes were in the pedals i.e. you had to pedal backwards to brake. Barry managed to fall of twice when braking fortunately not in the road. We went to find chandlers for charts. The first one we found was a funny little man who obviously did a lot of canvas work as he had his machine in the shop. He did not sell charts but gave us the location of other chandlers who might help us. He offered us coffee while we were there. Perhaps he had seen Barry rolling around on the pavement. We found a cheap roll of whipping thread which we needed and we felt we aught to buy something. In the next shop they only had last years chart which they offered at half price so we bought it. The plan was to travel overnight to Helgoland but we got the tides all wrong as the Almanac does not give tides for Hook of Holland which the Dutch charts work on. The highlight of the afternoon was the fishing. Almost as we put the hooks out we had two on the line unfortunately one slipped out of Barry’s hand. We then got another which managed to get off the line as Barry got hold of it. We managed to get some more and got three the last time.

We finished up with five but they were too much for our dinner so we have mackerel for lunch tomorrow. While I was trying to put them in the fridge my hand slipped and the lid came down on my head giving me a large lump on my forehead and a headache.  It then started to rain and visibility deteriorated so we headed into the nearest port, East Vleiland, packed as usual. We are rafted out near the entrance and there are three large barges on the inside if us and a yacht and two more outside us. It stopped raining as we approached East Vleiland and the sun came out making a pleasant evening.

22 July Th

Dep East Vleiland 8.30 local

Arr Borkum

20.30 local

Hazy sunshine but no wind at all, flat calm. This continued all day although a slight breeze came in late in the afternoon as the tide turned so we put the main up to help. Several seals popped their heads up to look at us as we went past but they are not friendly like the dolphins. The tide increased and we had to motor hard to get into Borkum. We took the second marina as the first was very tatty and expensive in 2001. This marina has big floating docks and it looks like an ex-military installation. Quite comfortable and quite cheap. Usual facilities and small shop. Very long water hose and electric sockets hidden inside the pontoon into which you had to climb to access them.

23 July Fri

Dep Borkum

Arr Nordinay

We departed after taking on water and had a motoring day in a flat calm. Sun came out so it was quite pleasant.  We arrived in Nordernay in warm sunny weather. Always seems to be warm and sunny in Nordernay and cold and dull in Borkum. The marina seemed to be full as usual so we tied up beside a yacht on the wall. We went to the supermarket to stock up on supplies. We watched a DVD after dinner and we were surprised when the echo sounder went off. We were level with the wall when we started but were ten foot below when we finished. Just as well it did not go any lower.

24 July Sat

Dep Nordenay

Arr Helgoland

Barry had told the two German boats outside us that we were leaving at 8 so dead on 8 o’clock husbands and wives on both boats were ready to cast off. Barry was still faffing around with electric cable. It was very different to East Vleiland when we had to knock the Dutch boat up twice at half past eight to get  out of the raft. We stopped for fuel and the immigration/customs  man came on board. Very jolly man, I thought he was never going. I think he was wanting coffee and an invitation to us in England where he visits two or three times a year. A good wind  and a sunny day so we sailed all of the way. Barry even stripped off and dipped in the sea off the back of the boat (14.5 degrees a bit cold for me). A bit of a rolling sea behind us for a good part of the day but a good sail when we turned north. Rafted out with only 7 boats a bit different to the 13 boats when we were last here. Settled down for a quiet night after putting on shore lines.

25 July Sun

Helgoland

8 o’clock all change. Most of the raft wants to leave so we all peel off and potter until they have all gone. The inside boat was slow, obviously finishing their breakfast. Eventually we get back in, second in next to the same boat so I do not have far to walk. A fairly miserable day. We wander into town looking in the duty free shops and looking for another hat for Barry who lost his over the side yesterday. No luck. We wandered back in the rain. I am converted to souwesters. We bought some duty free spirit and spent the evening watching a DVD. Note the open motor boats in the picture, they bring the tourists ashore from the large boats anchored in the sound and were named the “Helgoland One Design” by Martin Richards on a previous visit

26 July Mon

Helgoland

Up fairly early and ready to go but it rained then cleared up and just as we were about to leave it poured down and looked as it could be rain for the day so we decided to stay another day. I got the paints out and started. Before long the weather turned into a beautiful sunny day. Weather forecasting is a black art to me. We went for a walk and picked up a shrimp roll for lunch on the way and then walked round the flat reclaimed part of the island which we had missed last time. During the second world war Hitler was planning to build out and make a big harbour with support area for his Atlantic fleet. Fortunately it was abandoned. The beginnings of the breakwaters are still there and the reclaimed area. We returned to the boat for a quiet night before a fairly early start.

27 July Tues Dep Helgoland

Arr

Esbjerg

An early start and a fairly lumpy start of wind against tide between the two islands. Sailed for quite a way but, as it was a long way and the wind was quite light, started motor sailing. Started down the entry channel for Esbjerg just as it started to get dark after a very boring day out ofsettled down to a very late dinner and bed.

28 July Wed Esbjerg

Drizzling and then quite heavy showers so we cowered in the boat all morning. The sun came out for a lovely afternoon. We walked into town and passed the commercial dock. Piled on the dockside where crated blades for the wind generators. I never realised they were so big each one was about 100foot long and each generator has three blades. I was amazed at the size. It seemed to be a high street having a sale. Each shop had a stall of goods outside with sale good on it. The town square had an impressive statue of King Christian. We found a supermarket but no fish shop. We were hoping for fresh fish as we were moored next to the fish quay. The wind still in the north so our overnight passage is abandoned for an early start tomorrow.

29 July Th

Dep Esbjerg 6.00

Arr Thyboron

20.45

We departed early and had breakfast on the way. As it was near low water we saw seals basking on the exposed sand at the side of the channel. We were expecting the tide to be against us as we left the channel but it seemed to be with us and continued for most of the day only running against us as we approached Tyboron at the entrance to the Limfjord. Just outside the Esberg channel we saw the wind farm out at sea. We came within three miles of it. It seemed to still be under construction but when finished it will be ten rows of eight wind turbines and after seeing the size of one yesterday it makes one realise the power they must generate. We motor sailed all the way as there was not enough wind to keep up a reasonable speed. e caught two big mackerel so there will be fish for dinner tonight.  The sun was shining and it was quite warm. Barry got too enthusiastic with his sunbathing and now has trouble sitting down. It seemed a better day than when we left Helgoland and the early start meant we arrived in daylight. We rafted up beside a Dane who was sailing with his daughter and young grandson. He was very helpful giving information on anchorages and places to stop, if we had time.

30 July Fri

Dep Thyboron 11.30

Arr Harre Vig 18.00

We moved Lucia to the quayside and set out to explore. There is a fish shop and café on the quayside so fish for dinner tonight again. Unfortunately there is a fish festival on Saturday so the tourist information and museum are closed today. We see a picture of a shell decorated house so we set out to have a look. It is the other side of town which turns out to be about 1 km away. It is quite pretty and is obviously a tourist trap but there was an entrance fee to go in and see what we did not want to discover. We climbed up the sea dyke and sand dunes and found a number of old German gun emplacements. A brisk walk back stopping for food on the way and then off up the fjord following the buoys. Barry was hoping for a sail as allways but wind on the nose as usual.

We had to go under the first of five bridges on the fjord. It opened after a short wait. We had decided to head for an anchorage recommended by our friend of yesterday. He said it was used by the Vikings as winter quarters. It was very secluded, almost a lake with a small entrance. It is quite shallow in places so we had to be careful to follow the contour line. Our friend was already there and we shared a buoy with him for the night. The wind was quite strong but we were quite comfortable with no tides.

31 July Sat Dep Harre Vig 8.30

Arr Livo anchorage

We set off sailing and, although we had to tack, we managed to sail all day to the island of Livo including going under a very tall bridge 14 spans. We had planned to go to the marina on the north of the island but a fairly sheltered anchorage appeared to the south of the island so we dropped the hook there and with not tides to worry about were very comfortable.

1 August Su Dep Livo 7.00

Arr Aalborg

As we had gone to bed early we were awake early and so set of sailing across quite a wide expanse of water but when we got to the narrow channel the wind was again on the nose and so we started motoring. We continued up the channel and through an opening bridge. We saw it close as we were approaching after letting half a dozen yachts through. We were expecting to have to wait but as we approached it started to open just for us. We had been advised to go to the third marina but when we got there it was very crowded and had no diesel. We discovered Why there was such a mess of boats hither and thither. Just passed the next bridge we could see the tall ships moored at the side. We did not know when they are leaving but all sorts of small boat were dressed overall and motoring up past them. We had to motor back to the big marina where we picked up diesel and found a berth. We had a walk towards town but it was too far so we walked back along the tow path.

2 August M

Dep Aalborg

Arr Hals

Up fairly early and off down the fjord. Through two bridges, the first a rail bridge which opens on the hour and maybe the half hour. Just after the bridges the tall ships were still all moored on both sides of the river. We took some time photographing them. An amazing sight, some of them are so large. We motored along the channel but after a bend about half way we were able to sail the rest. As we approached the marina we saw crowds sitting and standing looking up the fjord. We did not expect such a reception!! In fact they were waiting for the Tall ships to come down the fjord but they had a long wait as they did not start arriving until 3pm. The marina was quite full and we were too wide so we had to tie up outside of the marina facing the entrance to the harbour. We had a walk around and there was a real party atmosphere with outdoor stalls and entertainment. After returning to the boat for lunch we just had time for a quick dash round the supermarket before the first of the square riggers came past. We had a grandstand seat on the foredeck. It took about three hours for them all to pass. We were a bit disappointed that so few had any sails up. The first had the jibs and the sails between the masts but most had no sails. Only those smaller boats at the end with only fore and aft sails had them all up. A large Dutch square rigger tied up on the on the outside quay by us presumably to let off the pilot and then let go all their sails to sail off the quay, very impressive.

I got quite sunburnt again sitting watching and photographing them all. When they had gone we took a walk up to the town square where there are a pair of whale ribs standing like and arch actually in the entrance of someone’s drive. They are the symbol of the town. The original whale bones were from a 90 tonne blue whale shot in 1868. Unfortunately in 1953 a lorry driver drove into them and they did not survive!! I would not like to have been him. The town was given another set by a Norwegian whaling company. A good dinner of fresh sole bought in the fish shop ended a very exciting day.

3 August Tues

Dep Hals arr Grenaa

A fairly early start on a lovely warm sunny day. We motored out through the channel and put the normal sails up but as the wind died a bit decided to put up the new cruising chute. It went up beautifully on it’s sliding bowsprit and increased our speed dramatically. We were about to take it down as the wind was coming up and now too far forward of the beam when the wind came behind us again and we could continue but not far from the entrance to Grenaa however we tried to gull wing and got into a real muddle the chute finaly wrapping itself around the rolled jib. We eventually managed to unravel it and the sailed towards the harbour on the main alone still doing 5 knots.  Unfortunately the bow sprit now seems to be a little bent! We finally dropped the main and motored into the harbour. All the posts seem rather too close together so we rafted out but then decided that there was just enough room behind against the pontoon to get in with a bit sticking out at the end of the pontoon, we now have easy access to electricity. There is a washing machine here and domestics are overdue. We got a load of washing done but unfortunately the dryer was not working too well so we draped it around the saloon. We looked like a Chinese laundry. It poured with rain overnight which woke us up.

4 August W

Dep Grenaa arr Tuno

Drizzling on and off this morning but we decided to press on as the weather forecast says it will improve. As soon as we got outside the harbour it poured down and we got soaked. Barry discovered that his jacket is not water tight any more. Soon after however the weather started to improve and by the afternoon we had lovely warm sunny weather and a good sailing wind.

Tuno is a very tiny island but we managed to raft four out in the small marina where Barry was met by a topless lady offering to help him tie up! After putting the washing out to dry on the rails we went for a walk into the only village. There are no cars on this island, only tractors. The fire engine and ambulance are both pulled by tractors. There are some picturesque old houses and a forge that seems to be still in use. We bought some veggies from one of several wayside stalls which work on an honesty basis. The small marina was very crowded with more arriving after us. At nine o’clock someone started playing the last post on a bugle and everyone took their flags in and clapped when he had finished.

5 August Th Dep Tuno arr Korsor

Barry was awake early so we woke up the boat on the outside at 8 and left heading south. We were uncertain where to go but eventually decided to push on south to Korsor which is just south of the enormous bridge which spans the Big Belt with an island in the middle which is about ten kilometres in length in total. Looking from the north the centre span of the left hand (east) side of the bridge is a suspension bridge high enough for big ships to pass under but boats of our size should use the next span outside this. On the other side of the island the centre span is only big enough for smaller yachts, we went that way last time we were here. We followed the channel into the marina which  had wide apart stern posts  and was not crowded so we were comfortably berthed. Next to the marina was a naval dockyard with a whole display of naval ships and at 9pm the cannon sounded for us to take in the ensign.

6 August F Korsor

A bit of a lay in (except for the cannon at 8am) and then off to find a supermarket that would take our empty beer bottles. In Denmark all bottles, glass and plastic, have a deposit on them which you get back when you return them intact. We eventually found a suitable supermarket and stocked up on food again. Back to the boat for lunch and then off again to do some sightseeing.

We found the art gallery which was quite small and then went to the fortress which is now a museum but now unfortunately closed but we had a look round the outside anyway.

Just outside the moat was a great pile of sand in an amazing sand sculpture. It was starting to deteriorate but was quite impressive about 30 feet long and12 foot high. We went into a small pottery in a very pretty street on the way back and bought some sea horse seconds.

7 August Sat Dep Korsor Arr Femo

8 am departure as the canon went off. We motored out with little wind but later the wind came up and with the current opposed to the wind it became quite bumpy. We had planned to go to the very remote, small island of Viro and we did have a look but the marina looked a bit exposed to the current wind and quite tight to manoeuvre in so we went on to Femo which is a little larger. The marina there was very crowded but we managed to raft up but many after us could not get in and either anchored outside or went elsewhere. We had a walk around but not particularly interesting. Very large campsite now empty as the holidays in Denmark have now finished.

8 August Sun dep Femo arr Stubbekobing

Up and left early. The wind had dropped a little over night but still from the east so motoring again. It was a bit lumpy in the middle so we kept to the shelter and made good time. We were uncertain where to go as we had originally been going to Bogo but Stubbekobing now seemed more sheltered. Stubbekobing won, it is the first place we have visited that we have been to before since Helgoland and we were in time for a late lunch. Later we went for a walk along the shore and through the town park and as the afternoon wore on the wind increased but eventually died down a bit during the night.

9 August Mon Dep Stubbekobing

Arr Stralsund

Up really early and away by 7, some wind but expecting to have to motor all the way however, after leaving the  channel between the islands we managed to sail SSE towards Darser Ort and, although it was a bit lumpy to start with, we had a good sail. Just before we got there the water temperature dropped 5 degrees and we were piling on clothes. The wind backed a bit and we managed to sail along the coast although we had to tack out about four times to get to the entrance south of Rugen. We also managed to raise Enigma on the VHF. Once in the channel we could free off a little and sailed down the winding channel at a great pace. We found a berth in the marina just by the opening bridge so we could observe the light functions ready for the morning. Brian phoned just after we arrived to say he was in the other town marina. Dinner and a quiet night.

10 August Tues

Stralsund to Stralsund Yacht Club

Not a very early start as the bridge didn’t open till 9.20. We were ready to go through the bridge with Enigma and about twenty others when it lifted, just before it lifted however a coaster gave three hoots cast off and went a stern and then made 180 turn to go through the bridge We followed it through and up the channel and then peeled off to go round the back of the island to the Yacht club marina. The channel was very narrow and shallow but we were pleased to see Stuart Bradley in a rubber dingy waiting to meet us and tell us which berth to use. Enigma followed us in.  We settled in and then walked to the supermarket and stocked up. We joined the crew of Enigma in the yacht club for dinner although the yacht club is fairly new and is still being fitted out.

Nets drying where we bought some local smoked fish behind the marina.

11 August W

Stralsund Yacht Club

We cleared up the boat and waited for the ladies to join the men on Enigma. Keith and Beryl Boddy joined us on Lucia for our time in Stralsund. We had a sandwich lunch in the yacht club and then went to look round the small nautical museum which is just outside the yacht club where there are examples of various buoys and underwater vehicles. Later we took taxis into the town for dinner.

12 August Th

Stralsund Yacht Club

A lazy morning on board then later dressed the boat overall.  A lovely sunny day again. In the afternoon we had the ceremonial raising of the new CA Baltic section banner and welcome speech by Donald Green. This was followed by a barbeque at the yacht club in the evening. Very good pork steak, sausage and salads, Drinks included. A very convivial evening.

13 August F Stralsund Yacht Club

Rain, rain, rain, for a walking tour of Stralsund. A very enthusiastic guide escorted us around the town. We went in two churches both of them being restored. One had a lot of murals and some wonderfully carved pews. We saw the colonnades in a restored almshouse and a similar one in the town hall. The tour was supposed to finish at 12.30 but the enthusiastic guide went on until 13.30 by which time I had had enough being wet and hungry. We had not booked for the museum visit in the afternoon I am glad to say. We eventually found somewhere to have lunch and then a taxi back to the yacht club. A rest before getting lunch and ready for the opera in the evening, the Magic Flute by Mozart in an open air theatre in harbour. The rain had stopped by now thankfully. An interesting production. The stage was on a coaster. The orchestra was in a box on the dock with the front open. The actors, conductor and ourselves were open to the elements. It got quite cold and the hot wine was very welcome in the interval. Unfortunately it started to rain quite hard the conductor quickly dashed in and put a plastic cape over himself and continued. He had his score on the rostrum with a glass cover and a squeegee to remove the water. Unfortunately the light in the rostrum went out and he was trying to read with no light bending down so he was inches away from the glass. This was soon put right. Some of the chorus appeared with clear plastic ponchos over their costumes but fortunately the rain eased off. After the performance we all hurried for the bus. Otto the CA HLR had arranged with the bus company for the bus to take us all the way to the yacht club so we did not have to walk over the bridge. Ken had arrived by plane and train and was fast asleep when we got in.

14 August Sat Stralsund Yacht Club

A fairly early start again and a walk over the bridge to the train station and a ride on the train to Sassnitz. The organised tour was a long coastal walk but we (Crews of Lucia and Enigma) decided it was too far for us so we took the bus to Wedding and did a shorter round walk which took us first along the cliff top through the edge of woods then back through the woods  We stopped in the woods for a picnic lunch then went on into  Sassnitz for drinks and ice cream then back to the yacht club by train with just enough time to get ready for the grand dinner that evening.  Everyone looked very smart in their outfits and we had a delicious buffet dinner in the yacht club followed by our own entertainment. There was a limerick competition which Ken won. Keith did a turn and Stuart kept everything going. Two opera singers who happened to be there were persuaded to perform, Beryl danced the light fantastic, the wine flowed and everyone had a great time.

15 August Sun Dep Stralsund Yacht Club

Arr Stralsund

Up early as we had to be ready to go through when the bridge opened at 9.20. We had to wait a long time as, besides the large number of yachts coming through the other way, there was a coaster and about 6 small Danish navy boats that had been in the main port for a few days going through in front of us. We tied up in the main marina and after lunch the crew went to look around the town.

The crews of Elysium and Lucia went out for a final dinner in a Greek restaurant where we ate and drank far too much again.

16 August M Dep Stralsund

Arr

Hesnaes

Up early again as the Boddys and the ladies on Elysium were leaving to fly home. After saying our goodbyes to all but Ken, who is staying with us for another two weeks, we saw Elysium off and went looking for a supermarket. Failed to find super market so we set off sailing down the channel but when we got out to sea the engine had to go on. Motored all the way avoiding the ships in the deep water route and decided to go into Hesnaes, a small fishing village which we hadn’t visited before where we finaly managed to find a pair of posts wide enough for us to go in just in time for dinner and bed.

17 August Tu

Dep Hesnaes Arr Agerso

We went to look for the shop and to our delight found a wonderful village with traditional houses with both thatched roofs and walls.

We bought provisions and there was also a fish shop at the end of the fishing sheds so we bought sole for dinner. A good wind so we started sailing as soon as we left the harbour and followed the well buoyed channel back past Stubbekoping. A good sail all day although a little bumpy at times. We finally decide to go to the island of Agerso opposite Korsor for the night after looking at various options, including Viro again, on the way.  

The marina was quite small and quite full but we found a berth between posts reserved for boats over 10 metres, just right for us. Once we were settled we went for a walk around the village. Not as attractive as the one visited this morning but they did have a duck pond. We failed to find the bank even with the aid of a map. Back to the boat to enjoy our delicious fresh fish for dinner.

18 August W

Dep Agerso Arr Kerteminde

A difficult manoeuvre to get out of the marina but successfully achieved and a good sailing wind. Unfortunately after about an hour it started to drizzle and then to pour down especially as we went under the bridge. I blame it on my doing washing last night and wanting to hang it out to dry when we get in. It had cleared up by the time we got in and I was able to get most of the washing nearly dry before bedtime. We were moored next to Passepatou who we had not seen since Mariehalm in 2000.

19 August Th

Kerteminde

A fairly stormy night with gale warnings for the following day but we would not have been going on anyway as we intended to catch the bus to Odense, Denmark’s third largest city and the birth place of Hans Christian Anderson.

After lunch in Odense we visited his childhood home and later the museum, part of which was sited in the house where he was born. Quite interesting but a lot of reading.

Note the polished abdomen of the reclining lady (left), apparently young children like to use it as a slide!

Between visiting the two houses we also visited two cathedrals. One had the skeleton of King Canute, exposed, in his coffin. The other was where he was killed. He apparently was not very nice but, as he was murdered while he was at prayer, he was later canonised.

Another blustery evening and night.

20 August F

Kerteminde

Gales seem to have subsided a bit but, although we had planned to go on the wind is still quite strong so we decide to stay put. Ken and I went to visit the Johanne Larsen Museum almost next to the marina. He was quite a prolific artist and illustrated some of the fairly tale books of HCA. He also did beautiful woodcuts of the local fauna mainly the birds, (ducks and swans). We looked round his old home and then in the art gallery next to it which houses more of his paintings and those of his family or connected to the area. A good visit followed by a lazy afternoon and then into town for a very wet but free country and western evening in town where we felt a little under dressed as most of the locals were in costume.

21 August Sa

Dep Kerteminde

Arr Fredricka

Started off with a relaxing sail thinking we would be motoring soon but the wind got up and we were treated to a “spirited” sail to windward tacking as necessary. We eventually arrived at Frederica, at the top end of the Little Belt, arrived quite late but in time to find a very convenient berth on the quayside and cook dinner on board.

22 August Su

Dep Frederica

Arr Sonderburg

Up fairly early and off for another, initially, spirited and pretty sail south through the Little belt and the Sonderburg fjord. Surprisingly we had about two knots of current with us for part of the way! It poured with rain soon after we left but after a good down pour it cleared up for quite a sunny afternoon. It was an attractive sail through the narrow channels with beautiful countryside on either side. There is an opening bridge just before Sonderburg but we only had 10 minutes to wait before the next opening, more by luck than good management,  we then tied up at the town quay for the night. We rafted up besides a British registered yacht about 50 foot, brand new but there were only French people on board, very strange.

23 August M Dep Sonderburg arr Kiel

We had a quick walk to the supermarket to collect supplies and then off south to Kiel. A mixed day of sailing and motoring and we eventually tied up quite late.

24 August Tu Dep Kiel Arr Rensburg

We walked into town to change the last of our Danish money and to see if we could find charts for the Eider but no luck on the chart front. We then returned to the boat and cast off for the lock at Brunsbuttel. We were very lucky and the lock was just opening as we arrived so we went straight in. We tried to moor up outside the lock to go and get the charts but could not find anywhere to moor so on to Rensburg. A good mooring and and later an excellent meal in the restaurant after pouring rain and a thunderstorm in the afternoon during which Lucia managed to trip the electrical supply to the pontoon after someone had left a hatch open allowing water to get into one of the electrical sockets.

25 August W

Dep Rensberg

Arr Lock

We contemplated getting the train back to Brunsbuttel to look for charts but discovered we would have to catch the train to Kiel and then a bus to Brunsbuttel and so we decided it was not worth the effort. Especially as it was pouring with rain off and on all morning, we did however manage to get the washing done in the laundrette. We saw Ken off at the railway station to catch his flight  home from Lubeck and then we set out along the canal again. We saw a German boat moored at the side which we were next to in Korsar and we all waved at each other.

The wind was amazingly strong against us so we went into the Gieslau Canal entrance where you  can moor, up just before the lock gates, free of charge. A lovely setting with mooring on both sides, facilities by the lockkeeper’s house and all free. The boat we had met in Korsar moored up later and the man came along for a chat (half in German/half in English). His name is Harry so they laughed at Harry meeting Barry which isn’t that funny but I think it was something to do with the amount of grog they had consumed.

26 August Th

Dep Lock arr Cuxhaven

An early start on down the canal to make sure we caught the favourable tide to Cuxhaven. The wind has reduced so motoring was quite comfortable. A lot of big boats in both directions.

Mooring posts for large ships.

 We spend most of the day following a couple of tugs towing a crane on a platform. We eventually passed it almost in sight of the lock. We were lucky and the lights changed on the lock after about ten minutes and we were in. One other yacht came in after us and then we waited a while but no more small boats arrived and the gates closed. The tide was running out at full tilt when we came out, over two knots with us, unfortunately the wind against tide down the Elbe made it quite an uncomfortable passage. It only took us just over two hours to get to the marina which was fairly full but we managed to find a berth. Weather forecast not good so decided to staying two nights.

27 August F Cuxhaven

Pouring rain and we have to take the deposit bottles back to the supermarket. A long wet walk into town but we had coffee and a bun and stocked up on supplies. We met the crew of Baltic Bear on our way back from the marina. They are in another marina, through the fishing harbour. Dinner in the yacht club, quite good and large portions even from the light menu. Barry had invited the Canadian couple from the Stralsund rally to join us for coffee. They are heading straight for Harwich and say the locals are saying there will not be a window in the weather until Monday.

28 August Sa Cuxhaven

Up at 4.30 for weather forecast. Back to bed for 5am. Barry went round to look at the other marina which seems a lot more sheltered and decided to move. At the moment we are being rocked around a bit and we also need shelter from the wind so we can get the genoa off for repairs. We had to wait for the lifting bridge to open (opens twice an hour on request). We found a berth with electricity but the water is not working on any of the pontoons so water economy measures in place, this marina does have a small bar however run by the harbour mistress.

29 August Su Cuxhaven

Up at 4.30 for weather forecast. Back to bed for 5am. Thunder, lightening, hail, rain, not going anywhere today. Another quiet day. Barry did some jobs around the boat and I painted.

30 August M Cuxhaven

Up at 4.30 for weather forecast. Back to bed for 5am. We thought of going to Hamburg on the train but the thought of three hours on a train did not excite us and we were also thinking of going on overnight. We went and had a coffee and a bun and found the hypermarket and stocked up with bits we had forgotten. Weather getting worse not better. Harry came round looking for us but we were out. He must be in the other marina.

31 August Tu Cuxhaven

Up at 4.30 for weather forecast. Back to bed for 5am. Weather still no improvement, if anything worse. Another quiet day. Barry went shopping and I painted. He met Harry who had moved round here. They had a beer in the harbour mistresses bar and then Harry came back to try the Captain Morgan’s from Helgoland.

Lots ofBig Blue Jellyfish have arrived in the marina.

1 September W Cuxhaven

Still in Cuxhaven. Another stormy night, wind and rain. We did not get up at 4.30!! Rain seems to have stopped this morning and maybe the wind is reducing.

The German’s do not use deck chairs of the beach they have these double boxes with drawers for storage underneath. We call them Hun Traps as they can be closed up overnight.

2 September Th Dep Cuxhaven arr Nordernay

A very quiet night no wind, no rain. Up at 5 get the 6 o’clock bridge opening and then out into the Elbe along with about 14 ahead and the same number behind. Obviously got the tide right, over two knots of tide with us. We recorded 9.20 knots over the ground. A long fairly boring day, not enough wind for sailing so motor sailing most of the day. Arrived in Nordernay just before the fuel dock closed so we managed to fill up with diesel before finding a berth. Decided to have dinner in the yacht club, good fish in pleasant surroundings.

3 September  F Dep Nordernay arr canal outside Dokkum

Another early start, leaving about 6. Again not enough wind to make good time so motor sailing again. Tide right again out of Nordernay and then we made good time until the tide turned and we fought the tide across the Emms. Thinking that, if we have to motor, we might as well do it through somewhere pretty and as the tide is now in our favour to go into Lauwersoog we decided to go into the North Hollands Canal to Harlingen. We were very lucky as the lock opened ten minutes after our arrival and with the usual Dutch lock keeper’s efficiency we were squeezed in. We gently motored across the Lauwersmeer and then almost straight into another lock and into the canal. A gentle motor along through two bridges and then we motored up at one of the stopping places, only just deep enough. A lovely quiet spot with the sheep and horses grazing on the bank until a large Dutch barge arrived with a host of children hanging from the rigging. As they approached a boy jumped into the dingy they were towing and was cast adrift to float in. They moored behind us with children jumping from the boat before it was tied up. In fact there seemed to be about half a dozen who then proceeded to set up two tents on the grass. We went to bed early while there was still much coming and going nextdoor and later, as we were drifting off to sleep, it sounded as if they having a disco!

4 September Sa Dep Dokkum arr Harlingen lock

We were off early but the next bridge, which was quite close, was only open for commercial traffic until 9am and none arrived so we had to sit and wait. When through the bridge we went on  to the next bridge in Dokkum and as it had just opened we decided to moor up and go and do some shopping.

There were models of monks hanging all over the town, some sort of local festival. We carried on along this pretty canal passing several attractive windmills and paying our tolls as we passed the bridge keepers. The bridge keeper hangs out of his office with a small clog on the end of a fishing line. You have to put the toll in the clog as you pass. A fair amount of small change is needed as you go through several bridges. We finally went through the big lock at Harlingen and then straight on to the lock at the north east corner of the Isslemeer where, after passing through, we stopped for the night.

5 September Su dep Lock

arr Durgadam

Up fairly early and across the Isslemeer and Markameer  and on to the small marina at Durgadam. This marina has a number of berths for large boats from which you have to use a small,  manually operated, ferry to reach the shore!

6 September M Durgadam

Took the bus into Amsterdam for the day and visited the Van Gogh Museum to see the exhibition of Manet’s Maritime paintings and other inmpressionist maritime paintings and bought a shed load of bulbs in the market.

7 September Tu Dep Durgadam for the North Sea

Departed Durgadam heading for the lock at Ijmuiden and then out into the north sea.

< Global warming ready?

Wind NW 6 ish so a following, rolling, sea, these conditions  carried on throughout the day and all night so not much sleep for either of us but good speed on half the jib through the night getting us to the top of the Shipwash by dawn the next day.

8 September W arr Woolverstone

Arrived Harwich early morning and, game to the end, raced a sailing school boat up the Orwell as one does when two boats are sailing in the same direction. We had planned to stop at the Royal Harwich yacht club pontoons but they were full so we went on to Woolverstone, bed and some sleep. A quiet day pottering before  our sail back to the Medway.

9 September Th Dep

Woolverstone

Arr Hoo

An early start, a gentle motor sail home and reality.

                       Thamesport, Medway.>