Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 97/98 © Niall McInerney
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Review
If my girlfriend wears the trousers, what do I do?
Artsworld's 'Style Tribes' series looks at catwalk fashions on 8 Feb, from the
cool to the outrageous. But the V&A's latest fashion exhibition, opening
that day, goes even further: it's about men in skirts...
Venue
Victoria & Albert Museum
Men in Skirts
Start and end dates
8 Feb 2002
12 May 2002
Price
Free
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Imagine you're a normal sort of bloke.
First, you're invited to a mate's wedding, which is full Highland dress in
Scotland. Do you wear a kilt? Of course; it's laugh, you welcome the
opportunity to make jokes about nothing being worn, it's all in perfect working
order, and you rather like your girlfriend having the tipsily wandering hands
for a change.
Second, you're on holiday in a beachy South-East Asian resort somewhere. Do you
wander round in a Becks-style sarong on your way to the palm-lined restaurant?
No problem. You're simply being laid-back and relaxed and doing what the locals
do, such as watching Man U on the satellite.
But would you wear a skirt on the underground on your way to work? Of course
not; you'd be scorned, ridiculed, derided, laughed at, almost as much as if you
admitted to owning a Skoda, enjoying Blue Nun or listening to Celine Dion.
Funny things happen in London, and you do, very occasionally, see a man in the
street so attired (one female member of this office recently dated a computer
programmer who regularly wears a skirt in public, but won't be drawn on the 'is
anything worn' question). However, it clearly isn't the norm.
The V&A's 'Men in Skirts' exhibition is an attempt to challenge these
preconceptions, an addition to its regular displays of costume through the
ages. You can see dozens of attempts by modern fashion designers - including
Jean-Paul Gaultier, famous for his, er, open-minded designs - to prove that a
bloke in a skirt can look good.
And all very curious it is. Most of the things are unlikely to become standard
wear: Ozwald Boateng's smart lime-green business suit, complete with snappy
shirt and tie and finished off with a well-cut calf-length skirt, is certainly
eye-catching, but it's just too hard to imagine it as not being, well, wussy.
And Gaultier's male ball-gown - a flowing creation in black taffeta that lacks
a back half and so displays the buttocks to the rest of the party - could only
really be carried off by the most outrČ.
Some attempts come close to working - a leather working kilt, complete with
penknives and key-fobs hanging purposefully off, looks the sort of thing that
might just be OK. One attendee at the press launch was so clothed, and -
especially with his rascally stubble and tousled dreadlocks - was not the sort
of character you'd mess with.
There are displays of male-skirt fashions of the recent past, mostly covering
Vivienne Westwood's angry punk and Kurt Cobain's frankly silly grunge, and a
running slide show pot-pourri of everything from catwalk absurdities to the
Royal Family, snapped in kilts circa 1975, looking even more absurd.
One dilemma never quite gets resolved - are skirts to show a man's feminine
side, or can they genuinely be masculine? - and while the information boards
remind us that some cultures do accept, or have accepted, skirts (such as the
dhoti, everyday streetwear in India) there's not all that much evidence to
encourage the more pioneering among us.
The day when a man can wear a skirt to a shareholder meeting, and not just on
some attention-grabbing fashion pantomime, is still far off, if it ever does
arrive. For the moment, the trousers wear the trousers. But the V&A's
exhibition is great fun. Go and smile, go and be embarrassed if you're a bloke,
go and giggle if you're a city chick, go and plan your Highland-dress wedding.
But I'll stick with the pants for the time being, thanks...
Rob Ainsley
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