Piker Guide to Bass by Kent Sherrington

(Spring 2001 Edition)

As most of us know there are certain times and conditions that can make pike fishing with lures largely a waste of time.  Now rather than taking up golf or reaching for the deadbaits, I have a suggestion: try bass fishing with your lures.

Having been mad keen on catching pike on plugs etc.  since my early teens, there are times when I sometimes fancy a bit of a change.  Perhaps you do too? 

One of the problems this can create if you don’t happen to be a tackle dealer is the requirement and expense of re-equipping yourself with suitable rods, reels, lines and lures.  But medium to light piking gear is great for bass from the shore, or boat for that matter.  That’s not to say you won‘t end up with a good excuse to buy some more new gear, oh no! I can always think of a good reason to buy a new rod, reel or goodly stash of new lures (toy substitutes).  After all I think that is all part of the fun.  But you really don’t need to splash out especially if it is only for an odd visit or two. 

THE BASS 

The European sea  bass (Dicentrarchus labrax) is ideally adapted to live and feed in the shallow, turbulent water of the ocean’s edge.  I have even seen a bass swim inside a wave that temporarily washed over a large rock I was stood on, it was, I assure you, perfectly at home in this position.  In fact it was trying to grab hold of my J13 Rapala at the time! 

In calmer waters expect the bass to fight two to three times as hard as a pike pound for pound.  With a strong tide rip to its advantage though prepare to be shocked at just how hard the bass can pull your string, even the smaller ones. 

Its diet consists mainly of crab, sandeel and other small and not so small baitfish.  In fact to illustrate the point of bait size, I can tell you that you could put your fist into the maw of a bass of say five pounds.  This even puts the cavernous cakehole of our freshwater chub to shame! I have also had quite small bass take lures up to about a third of their own size, these are not one-off occasions but regular occurrences. 

The current shore-caught record for bass stands at some 19lb, however I read the French have fish of some 30lb on their books.  Bass of over 20lb are captured commercially on occasions over here.  Don’t expect many doubles though.  These are fish of a lifetime, (unless your name is Steve Butler).  The bass is a slow-growing species under too much pressure from offshore pair trawlers etc.  Any fish over 6lb is a very good one from most areas.  I personally believe all bass should be returned to the sea.  Granting a sportfish-only status could retain the fish stock for future generations. 

REMEMBER: PAST GENERATIONS SAVED IT FOR US! 

The bass frequents our shoreline from about early May till late October dependant on weather and the availability of ample food.  Thus it can be an ideal species to target on a family seaside holiday or a day out at the beach.  During the winter period they tend to move offshore.  Although some may stay inshore, especially around warm water outlets, estuaries, and the like.  The key here is usually sexual maturity, as the fish is said to mate at sea.  Hence offshore pair trawling is a bit of a no-no.  As regards safeguarding the future of this fish.  I don’t wish to harp on too much about conservation, but please remember that only a very small number of pair trawlers exist.  These are in the hands of only a couple of persons.  Is it really fair they should be allowed to take this fish from all of us? As the fish stock reduces its value increases, this will lead to the bass being unable to sustain its own kind against normal natural hazards.  If you wish to see the bass in the next ten years write to Elliot Morley, and your local MP.  Do it now please, or it won’t get done. 

EXPLORING A VENUE 

Remember when choosing a venue the bass, similar to most predators, will prefer locations that give it maximum advantage over its prey.  For the bass this will mean shallower water, strong currents or surf, cover such as rocks, boulders, weed or sandbanks.  But its most important feature to bass is an abundance of food.  Find these features at a mark and you should have also found some bass. 

In order to quickly locate these features look on either ordinance survey maps for land features, such as estuaries, access points etc, or admiralty charts for water features such as depths, reefs and so on.  Local bait and/or tackle dealers will normally be able to give you a few pointers on location.  However some won‘t understand the advantages or limitations of your gear.  They will also only tell you of the better-known spots where hundreds have fished before.  So as with piking, trailblazing can score well for the more adventurous among us. 

By far and away your best guides on the water will be of the feathered type.  If you spot cormorants making frequent short dives and holding in an area, they are onto bait.  If they make long dives and move along quickly, then they like you are still looking for prey.  Also herons soon learn the best shallow water spots

to fish so take note.  Terns or gulls swooping and diving can indicate a blitz.  Myself and fellow member Stephen Makin landed over sixty bass in only about two hours when we spotted a flock of gulls feeding in this way on baitfish pushed up to the top by a massive shoal of bass last summer.   

Preceding this trip I had suffered about half a dozen blank sessions at the venue.  So listen to some good advice and choose your mark based on the best information you can get.  Then stick with it.  Try and fish it at different times of day and night, on various tides and stages of tide. 

I don’t wish to sound like your mother, but remember the sea will not forgive your mistakes or take pity on you should you get cut off on a rising tide.  So take every precaution.  Watching a tide from dead low to high and making notes could save your life.  Be aware of the effects of wind on the tide, spring tides can also create stronger currents.  Don’t turn your back on a big surf and watch the action of waves on rock marks, as every now and then a big one will hit that could knock you off.  The golden rule is that if you think it may be dangerous it probably is, so don’t do it. 

WHAT TO TAKE WITH YOU 

Perhaps the most important aspect to success after being on the right location, at the right time is to be suitably equipped.  With bass fishing the most important things will be your own personal comfort and mobility.  On most beaches some amount of wading into the surf may be required.  For this chest waders are the only option, if you try waist or thigh waders you are going to get wet.  I personally prefer the bootfoot type of waders, as they don’t get full of sand like the sockfoot type and there are no eyelets to rust or laces to snap.  A wader belt is a good idea, it will not only keep you dry from the waist down if you take a dunking, but if you end up in trouble and need to swim you will find it much easier.  I have used various waders and currently prefer felt with metal studs for soles, these give good grip on various surfaces.  Over the top of the waders it is smart to wear a waterproof jacket, note I do not tuck it into the waders as if a big wave breaks over you it will not fill up your boots.  If it is breathable, wear it even if it is not raining for this reason.  I myself rate the Patagonia SST very highly.  But any one from one of the top manufacturers should do well, I would rather buy a cheap rubber type one, than a breathable one from a dodgy company having had passed bad experiences with some.  This is especially true as exposure to saltwater can ruin a jacket not up to the task even in a single visit.  In the breast pockets of this jacket for ease of access I carry a waterpoof camera and a small pair of binoculars (also waterproof), plus a quality pair of non rusting cutter/ pliers for unhooking and rigging.  In the inside pocket, are two waterproof ziplock bags, in one I carry notes on tide times and my venue notes, in the other bag I carry a few paper tissues, these don’t only come in handy if you get caught short but they are also useful for wiping salt spray from your polaroid lenses, and a million other uses. 

Around my waist I have a smallish bum bag.  In this I store my plugs etc.  When fly fishing I prefer a chest pack, as this allows for deeper wading.  If walking a long way I will pop in a bottle of water, otherwise all food and drinks are left at the car.  Rucksacks and the like will drive you round the twist, as they will need to be constantly moved with the tide at most spots.  So unless you can fish with them on your back I suggest you don’t bother. 

Some other items worth carrying can be a compass, in case the fog draws in leaving you wondering which way back to shore (don’t laugh - it happened to me once).  A small torch can also be of help if you get there a bit early, or leave a little late.  A CO2 life jacket is a very good idea, in case you step into a deep ocean hole when wading or get knocked over by strong surf.  I have taken the auto-inflate out of mine and rely on the pull cord, as minor dunkings and drenching from the breakers are common. 

TACKLE FOR PLUGGING 

As stated at the start of this article, medium to light piking gear is great for bass.  However I feel some further explanation is in order, as what you think of as light might be heavy to me and vice versa.Rods need to be able to comfortably cast lures in the 1/4 to 3/4 ounce size range.  A rod that has sufficient power in its back to handle pike to 20lb with some authority would be just the ticket.  It doesn‘t happen very often but a bass of double figures could come along, so its unwise to go too light and spoil your chances. 

Due to the seemingly ever-present onshore winds, and the need to cast lightweight lures a fixed spool reel is the best choice I feel.  Choose one that is durable with the capacity to handle 200yds of 10lb.  Mono.  The drag should be adjusted with care, as you will get some fish hit your lure at last knockings especially around rocks and the white water of the surf.  These fish can hit like a ton of bricks, aided by an outgoing wave you will be in big trouble if you screw your drag up too tight. 

Despite the blind enthusiasm for braid there is still much to be said for mono in this arena.  I personally like the latest low stretch monos from the states, such as Stren Sensor or Trilene Sensi thin.  If however you wish to use a braid stick to the 20-30lb stuff.  I attach a long leader of fluorocarbon to the end of my braid, as despite manufacturers’ claims braids wont stand up to the effects of barnacle-coated rocks etc.  Fluorocarbon is about the next best thing to a wire line in this respect.  Please do not write in telling me how good one particular braid is,I have tried loads and they are all rubbish as regards abrasion resistance.  When I say long by the way I mean about six feet of fluorocarbon, not eighteen inches. 

PLUGS 

Bass are nuts for topwater plugs, the best of these seem to be the Rattlin’ Chug Bug from Storm.  Case in point is over thirty bass last season on the chrome and black version. I haven’t done as well on the saltwater big bug (a bigger version of the same), however bass will take it.  Jointed minnow plugs are a great choice also.  Try the Rapala J13, Rebel J30 or the smaller J20, the Bomber jointed minnow is also a little beaut, particularly the silver flash with blue back variant.  I feel it worth having a few silver Toby spoons, I have yet to take a bass on a Toby but I have had loads of other fish on them and don’t they cast great on a windy day! Fellow member Stephen Makin has had a few fish on the Rapala Minnow Spoon in chrome and blue, and says he prefers its slower sink rate to that of the Toby.  So you could do a lot worse than carry a few of those with you. 

Lunker City Fin-S Fish seem deadly on pollack, and are a top choice for weed and snags, not only are they cheap they rarely hang up as the hook point rides inverted.  Don’t ignore the pollack when bassing they are tough battlers worthy of some attention.

One thing you won‘t need on your lures are barbs.  I normally reduce the size of the barbs on hard-bodied pike lures, yet leave them on.  When I tried the same with bass I found them extremely difficult to unhook due to the cartilaginous nature of their mouth especially those hooked in the roof of the mouth.  Since debarbing I have had not one correctly hooked fish come off.  Even without barbs, pliers are still required to pull some hooks out.  On the subject of unhooking look out for the spines and razor like cutting edges on the gill plates, bass basically have sharp bits like perch only they can inflict real damage to the unwary angler.  I find it best to grab the big ones by the lower lip, the small ones underneath near the vent. 

CONCLUSION

I hope you enjoyed reading the first part of my piker’s guide to bass.  If you decide to have a go I wish you every bit of luck.  In part two I will spill the beans on fly fishing for bass.