The Baneblade is one of the Imperial Guard's most formidable vehicles - a huge tank armed with two battlecannon, three lascannon and seven heavy bolters.

Tony's really gone to town on this scratch-built model which offers a serious challenge to your modelling skills. As you can see from the photos of the finished Baneblade, it makes a truly magnificent model, well worth the effort.

We haven't included templates for the fiddly bits like small inspection plates, rivets and so forth. Once you've finished the basic model, you can add these if you want - take a look at the photos and diagrams for examples.

If you're a less experienced modeller, don't feel you have to add every detail to your Baneblade. Using the templates and instructions we've given here you should be able to put together an exciting model that's well within your own abilities.

Most of the parts for the tank are made from plastic card. Alternatively, you can use thin, sturdy cardboard.

You'll need to photocopy or cut out the pages with the templates and stick them to your plastic card.

Some of the templates are used for more than one piece - the template number will have x2, x3 or whatever written next to it.

A few of the templates overlap to save space - either make more than one copy of these or copy them onto tracing paper so that you can cut both templates out.

Use a sharp knife to cut the shapes out of your plastic card - it's safer and more accurate to use several lighter cuts than to push really hard and try to cut through in one go.

When you've cut the parts out of the plastic card, remove the templates.

As well as your modelling knife, you'll need some fine sandpaper, a small hacksaw (for cutting the brass tubing) and a hole punch (the type usually used for punching holes in paper).

Although most of the parts of this model are scratch built, you'll also need a few parts from Citadel's Predator Tank kit. If you haven't got the spare Predator parts, it's fairly easy to scratch-build the pieces you need to add the finishing touches to your model.

In the instructions, the numbers preceded by a P refer to Predator kit parts (see the Predator assembly instructions) and those preceded by a B refer to parts you'll need to make specifically for this model. BT parts are for the tracks, BH for the hull, BE for the engine and BR for the turrets.

Plastic parts should be stuck using polystyrene cement, card and balso parts using contact adhesive, and metal parts using superglue or two-part epoxy glue.

Any gaps that occur during assembly can be easily filled with plastic model filler. Because of the complexity of the model, you'll find you have to do a fair amount of trimming and sanding of pieces and filling of gaps as you go along.

To strengthen the construction of parts of the Baneblade you'll need to use small triangular brackets made from plastic card of cardboard - the diagram below shows you how to fit a strengthening bracket.

There are diagrams and photos of the completed model to show you how it all goes together - take a look at these as you read the instructions.

You'll need to have a little patience when building a Baneblade. Always leave time for parts to dry before moving on to the next section. This isn't a model you can build in half an hour like many kits. However, when you've finished it you should get a great sense of achievement and a splendid centerpeice for your Imperial army.

Making The Parts

All parts are made from 0.03" thick plastic or thin cardboard with the exception of the following:

• The turret mount supports (BT18) are made from 0.08" thick plastic or thick cardboard.
• The tracks (BT22) are made from very thin plastic card or thin cardboard. Cut two strips 24mm wide to the desired length.
• The axles (BT19 x20) are made from 1" long pieces of 5/8" wide balsa wood doweling.
• The wheels (BT21) are large Citadel round shields.
• The heavy bolters (BT24) are cut from Citadel plastic bolters from either the vehicle or the miniature kits.

First cut out four outer track unit sides (BT1), then cut two of these up to make two each of the outer track unit panels (BT2-BT6). These parts should have their edges and corners rounded by sanding. Similarly cut out four track unit tops (BT8), then cut two up to make two each of the track unit top panels (BT9-BT13).

The heavy bolter ports (BT25) are small circles of thin card which can be cut out using a hole-punch.

Construction

Follow this sequence for both track units.

1. Glue the track unit panels (BT2, BT3, BT4, BT5 and BT6) to the outer side of the track unit (BT1).
2. Glue the top panels (BT9, BT10, BT11, BT12 and BT13) to the track unit top (BT8).
3. Glue the outer side of the track unit (BT1) and the track unit top (BT7) to the inner side of the track unit (BT8).
4. Glue the turret mount base, sides and support (BT14, BT15, BT16, BT17 and BT18) to the track unit.
5. Glue the wheels (BT21) to the axles (BT19). The first two axles on each unit should be capped by wheels at both ends because you can see them from the front. Therefore, the axles for these need to be slightly shorter.
6. Glue a round slottabase (BT20) to each end of the rear axle to make the drive wheel - use the uncut type of slottabase.
7. Glue the hub (P4) to the drive wheel.
8. Glue all the wheels to the track unit.
9. Bend the track (BT22) round the wheels and into the track unit at each end and glue in place.
10. Glue the track links (BT23) to the track. Space these out evenly along the exposed length of the track - you'll need 19 for each track.
11. Glue the heavy bolters (BT24) to the heavy bolter ports (BT25) and then glue these to the side turrets.
12. Glue the headlights (P12) to the track unit.

Making The Parts

All parts are made from 0.03" plastic card or thin cardboard with the exception of the following:

• The left hull top (BH21) is made from 0.06" thick plastic card or thick cardboard.
• The driver's vision slit (BH19) is cut from the Predator hatch (P6).
• The front crossbar (BH25) is cut from a length of Predator sprue.
• The base of the front hatch (BH4) is a large Citadel round shield.
• The battlecannon barrel (BH13) and sleeve (BH14) are cut from brass tubing.

Construction

1. Glue the base of the upper hull (BH1) to the top of the track units.
2. Glue the left-hand sloping hull front (P1) to the left track unit and the base of the upper hull.
3. Glue the four parts that make up the right-hand hull front (BH16, BH17, BH18 and BH20) between the right track unit and the left hull.
4. Glue the top of the left-hand side of the hull (BH21) to the top of P1, the hull gun mount (BH23) to the inside of P1 and the front left of the hull (BH24) to the front of P1.
5. Glue the base of the hatch (BH4) and the top of the hatch (P14 with the rim on the underside trimmed off), to the top of the hull on the left (BH21).
6. Glue the front crossbar (BH25) and the front underside of the hull (BH26) between the track units.
7. Glue the Eagle plate (P24 slightly trimmed) to the front left of the hull (BH24) and the driver's vision slit (BH19) to the right-hand side of the hull front (BH18).
8. Glue the rear underside of the hull (BH15) to the back of the upper hull base (BH1) and between the track units.
9. To fill in the space at the rear of the hull, glue two small wedges of card between the base of the upper hull (BH1), the track units and the rear underside of the hull (BH15).
10. Glue together two slottabases. Any of the small types will do. Repeat twice so that you have three pairs of bases.
11. Glue the pairs of slottabases to the upper hull base (BH1) - these are going to support the top of the hull (BH2) so position them accordingly.
12. Glue the top of the hull (BH2) on top of these bases.
13. Glue the sides of the upper hull (BH3, BH5, BH6, BH7, BH8, BH9, BH10, BH11 and BH12) between the base and the top (BH1 and BH2).
14. Glue the hatch (BH22) to the hull top (BH2). The handle and hinges are made from small bits of plastic card and sprue.
15. To fit the battlecannon barrel (BH13) into the barrel sleeve (BH14), wind sticky tape around the end of the barrel until it fits snugly into the sleeve and then glue it in place.
16. Glue the gun into the hull gun mount (BH23).
17. Add the dozer blade (P10) to the front underside of the hull (BH26).

Making The Parts

All parts are made from 0.03" plastic card or thin cardboard with the exception of the following:

• The engine grill (BE5) is a type of wire mesh that is used to repair car bodies and is available from motorist's shops. Alternatively model shops sell wire mesh but this tends to be more expensive.
• The lights (BE15 and BE16) are cut from the Predator tail-light strip (P9).
• The grab rail (BE4) is made by cutting the ends from the Predator grab rails (P19).
• The exhaust pipes (BE13) are made from plastic tubing. Alternatively you can use the barrel of a pen. One side of each tube should be sanded slightly flat.
• The tops of the exhaust pipes (BE14) are small Citadel round shields.

Construction

1. Glue the front, top, back and bottom of the engine (BE2, BE6, BE7 and BE8) to the engine sides (BE1).
2. Glue the engine grill (BE5) to the top of the engine (BE6) and then glue the engine grill plate (BE3) on top of this.
3. Glue the bottom, back, top and sides of the exhaust system together (BE9, BE10, BE11 and BE12).
4. Glue the exhaust system to the engine and glue the engine to the back of the hull (BH15).
5. Glue on the exhaust pipe (BE13 and BE14).

Making The Parts

All parts are made from 0.03" plastic card or thin cardboard with the exception of the following:

• The top of the turret (BR3) is made from 0.08" thick plastic card or thicker cardboard.
• The base of the hatch (BR8) is a round slottabase of the uncut type. If you want to have the hatch open, cut out the entire centre of the base.
• The middle of the hatch (BR9) is a large Citadel round shield. Again the centre will need to be removed if you want the hatch in the open position.
• The main turret lascannon barrel (BR10) is made from plastic tubing or a round-barrelled pen.
• The battlecannon barrel and sleeve (BR31 and BR32) are made from brass tubing.
• The two side turret lascannon (BR20) are constructed from the Predator lascannon (P26) with their back sections cut off.
• The pegs that allow the turret to rotate (BR21) are made from round sprue or plastic rod.
• The front turret (BR22) is made from a Citadel display base with a section cut out of it.
• The heavy bolter (BR11) for the front turret is a Citadel plastic heavy bolter with the back part and the magazine removed.

Construction - Main Turret

1. Glue a Citadel display base and small slottabase together and glue these to the turret base (BR1) - they're going to support the roof of the turret.
2. Glue the roof of the turret (BR2) to the top of these bases.
3. Glue the sides of the turret (BR4 and BR5) between the base and the top (BR1 and BR2).
4. Glue parts BR12, BR13, BR14 and BR15 together to make up the front of the turret.
5. Glue the top of the turret (BR3) to the roof (BR2).
6. Glue the hatch (made from parts BR8, BR9, P11 and P14) to the turret.
7. Wind sticky tape around the battlecannon barrel (BR6) until it fits snugly into the cannon sleeve (BR7) then glue in place.
8. Glue the battlecannon and the lascannon (BR10) into the front of the turret (BR15).
9. Glue the peg (BR21) to the centre of the underside of the turret.

Side Turrets

1. Glue the two hexagonal slottabases together and glue BR16 on top.
2. Glue the lascannon (BR20) to the turret.
3. Glue the peg (BR21) to the centre of the underside of the turret.
4. Repeat for the other turret.

Front Turret

1. Glue the heavy bolter mounting (BR17, BR18 and BR19) into the front of the display base that makes up the main body of the turret (BR22).
2. Glue the heavy bolter (BR11) to the front of the turret.
3. Glue the top of the turret (BR23) to the top of the display base (BR22).

The model can be greatly enhanced by the application of some extra detail.

Rivets
Rivets can be added to the armour plating by carefully slicing up sections of thin plastic rod or sprue and sticking the resulting small discs to the tank.

These are best picked up and positioned using the point of a modelling knife.

After the rivets have dried on the model, a light sanding will round the edges slightly.

Crew
If you wish to have a crewman in the turret, an Imperial Guard office makes an excellant commander. The bottom half of the miniature should be sawn off just below the waist and the plastic arms repositioned.

Binoculars can be made from the ends of two plastic lasgun barrels.

Other Details
If you look closely at the diagrams and photographs, you'll notice all sorts of extra details that I've added to my Baneblade.

A ladder on the side of the tank can be added using the grab handles from Citadel vehicle kits.

An aerial can be made using a short length of thin, fairly stiff wire such as fuse wire.

It's easy to enhance the look of your model by using the odds and ends that you have in your bits box like spare pieces of plastic sprue and offcuts of card. These can be added as flanges, inspection plates, viewing ports and so forth.

It's a good idea to add one or more large banners to your Baneblade. These huge tanks are often the HQ vehicles for an Imperial Guard company and may fly the company's battle colours, listing the company's honours and victories. We've included an example of a banner for the Star Company of the 8th Aquitainian Regiment. Your Baneblade should obviously fly the colours of your own company or regiment of Imperial Guard.

Undercoat the model with either grey primer or a mix of Elf Grey and Chaos Black. Paint on the highlights by drybrushing with a very large brush - ideally a 1/2" wedge (available from art shops). The highlights should be built up slowly by adding Skull White to Chaos Black and lightly drybrushing over the whole tank. Eventually, you can build the highlights up to pure Skull White.

Black Ink can be blended into the recesses to add definition. Paint the small guns Chaos Black and then drybrush with Chainmail followed by Mithril Silver. A wash of Brown and Black Ink is put over each of the rivets for a rusty effect.

Finally, you can add extra details, such as kill markings on the guns (painted as rings on the barrels) and various Imperial Guard badges and slogans.