Continuing last month's theme we also use the Rhino kit as a basis for this month's model the Vindicator. The Vindicator is slightly more difficult to construct than the Whirlwind but as long as you follow the instructions you should have no trouble.

There are also instructions to make the shells fired by the Vindicator's Thunderer cannon. This should hopefully be helpful to modellers who want to put their vehicle in a diorama setting or wish to show the interior through open hatches.

You will need the following tools to make the model: a sharp knife, a small hacksaw, some fine sandpaper suitable for metal and plastic, a pin vice and drill bit and a steel ruler. All these can be bought from model or DIY shops. These are all useful modelling tools so if you have to buy some of them it will be money well spent. You will also need some polystyrene cement, superglue, two-part epoxy glue, milliput and plastic model filler.

In these instructions the numbers preceded by a 'V' refer to new parts made specifically for this model. Parts preceded by 'VS' are for the Thunderer shell. The other numbers match those given on the Rhino instruction leaflet.

Parts V1 & V2 should be made from tubing. The gun barrel on my model was made from brass tubing and the gun barrel sleeve from part of a metal cigar tube. These parts could just as easily be made from plastic tubing, suitable plastic container tops etc.

Part V3 is made from thick plastic card of 0.06" thickness. After cutting out the basic shape the front edges were rounded using fine sandpaper. The sunken rivet holes were then added using a thin drill bit clamped in a pin vice. Don't drill all the way through, about 1/2mm is fine.

Parts V4, V8, V9 & V10 should be made from thinner plastic card of 0.03" thickness or from cardboard. Sunken rivet holes are then added, as above, where appropriate.

To make the window parts (V6) carefully slice the windows from the front hatches (6) of the Rhino kit. This is quite tricky, so you should cut slowly with sharp knife. The windows will tend to bend when cut off, so you will have to carefully bend them flat before you apply them to your Vindicator.

Part V7 is just an ordinary drawing pin.

For my model the shell casing (VS1) was made from brass tubing, but plastic tubing would again be equally suitable. The Warhead (VS2) can be shaped from milliput. When dry this should be sanded smooth. It is best made on the casing so you have something to hold. The shell back (V3) is a round 13mm Citadel shield. The inside of the hole should be covered with a small piece of plastic card.

The new plastic and metal parts should have their edges smoothed using a fine sandpaper. Plastic parts can be stuck to other plastic parts using polystyrene cement. Other gluing should be done with either superglue or two part epoxy glue. Any gaps that occur during assembly can be filled with model filler and smoothed with sandpaper.

• CONSTRUCTION

Hull & Track Assembly

1. Remove the middle bar from the upper main bodyhalf (1) and cut out a small area as shown.
2. Remove the end lips on each of the two main body halves (1). Glue the two halves together as indicated in the diagram to lengthen the body slightly.
3. Assemble the rest of the hull and track parts as normal, but omitting front hatches (6), Dozer blade (10, and bolters (13). Glue circular hatches (14) on backwards and spare tail light (9) to the front of the hull. The circular hatches should have the small holes in their tops filled with plastic model filler.
4. Glue the track section into the rear half of the larger hole in the hull so the front of the vehicle protrudes further than normal.
5. Glue hull plates (V4)into the gaps left on the hull.

Gun Assembly

1. Wedge a lump of milliput into the base of the gun barrel sleeve (V2). While the milliput is still wet push the gun barrel (V3) through the gun barrel sleeve into the milliput so it is help in the centre of the sleeve with 19mm protruding. Leave this to dry until the milliput has set.
2. Glue gun mounting plate (V3) onto the hull front (V5).
3. Push gun assembly through hull front assembly so the total protruding length is 33mm at the top of the barrel and glue in place with epoxy glue.
4. Glue the gun and hull front assembly to the hull.
5. Glue V8 to V9 to make periscope.
6. Glue periscope and ventilator (V7) to the hull front. The ventilator (drawing pin) should fit through the hole drilled.
7. Glue the front plate (V10) and windows (V6) to the vehicle front.

Shell Assembly

1. Glue the warhead (VS2) to the casing (VS1) and back plate (VS3) to this with rivet detail showing.

Note: Used shell casings can be made by simply leaving off the warhead.

• PAINTING THE VINDICATOR

Vindicators are painted in the same colour scheme as other vehicles of a Marine Chapter or Imperial Guard regiment. Vehicles frequently carry and identification symbol on the roof hatch. Although this varies between the various Chapters and Regiments, it is usually based around a 'V' shape, and a few examples are shown below. You can either paint the symbol directly onto your model, or stencil it on as described in the Whirlwind article. Alternatively, you may prefer to photocopy the examples we've provided, colour them, cut them out, and stick them on your model.