Easter 2005 continued...
Tribes Trike Site
After a trip to Gt Yarmouth this weekend, we have Bought another little spider to put on our trike. Its a belt buckle, and with alteration will be fitted to the trike
This one we got last year... at The Trikes 'r' Us Rally.. This is going on our learther saddle bag
Our illuminated spider web
The build is going well... the main 'web' is wired...
Just photo's at the moment, more build detail soon....
Electronic Ignition System
Build started 5/4/05
Saturday 23 june, MOT Passed with no problems ....
The trike is not running well on way home, missing & lack of power.....
The 5mm LED's bought won't fit inside The 5mm i/d tube used. This requires the removal of the lip on the base of the LED that normally allows it to clip into a bezel.
A hobby Drill was used.
Lip on this led
Again, same as topbox lights, a current limiting resistor is fitted to each LED
Joints are staggered & insulated to ensure the wires won't touch
You can now see the effect of the LED's lighting the inside of the tube.

To this point its taken approx 2 hours !

i Still have the rest of the web to build.....
The LEDS were carefully soldered to a 'live' 12v supply to ensure correct polarity (they only light connected one way round)
A pack of components that has to be built at home. As a project kit, you also have to buy a box to mount it in (to protect from the weather) none of the connecting wires are supplied. its worth
Before being boxed, the ignition unit has been tested on the trike, just to make sure it all works ok
The heatsink is bonded onto the box with silicone which also makes it waterproof.. ann addition of my own is the green LED, this lights when the points are open, thus giving an indication of the unit working ok, but also acts as a 'static' timing light, for correct setting of ignition timing
A cutout is made for the main switching transistor, and also the capacitor, which unfortunatly sits too close to the heatsink
Wire layout is considered when making wire outlets


finally silicone is used to secure wires, to stop any vibration whioch could cause wires to break
These were bought online, they are neoprene with a fleese lining & Fit well down the neck. They are fully windproof ... Just what we need this time of year


They look pretty cool too! 
Another couple of hours has seen this
Turn into this
The rest of the web is strung on with white garden twine - We are pleased with how well it all lights up, the twine helps spread the light

More close up photo's soon...
w/c 25/04/2005

Toni Paints all of the silver seat frame yellow, along with the inlet manifold, to break up all the blue on the engine. The exhausts get a  fresh lick of paint too
Started with carb, stripped and found full of dirt due to failed fuel filter. Cleaned, new filter .... still runs bad ;-(
HT leads tested (should be <16k ohms) . two open circuit ... New silicone leads fitted... stills runs bad
Compression Tested... all cylinders are good
Removed my electronic ignition  ... Runs even worse !!   Swop spark plugs over side to side .....
What really gets me is the fact that its the same two cylinders missing   !!!!
Eventually i fit a new bosch blue ht coil ... PROBLEM SORTED!!!!       The secondary winding was 5500 ohms greater than the new one, causing a weak spark.   I Think the guinness can on the coil overheated it...
its worth mentioning that the bosch coil has a built in ballast resistor. This allows better cold starting, as it starts the coil on 12 volts or so then as the coil warms up the resistor gains resistance and drops the voltage to 9/10 volts !
sooty plug on missing
cylinder
Compression tested
120 psi indicates all's ok
No Sooner had i got this problem sorted, another struck  .......

The clip on the rocker shaft broke, the rocker arm dropped off & nearly punched a hole through the spring retainer
The rocker shaft was rebuilt with new clips, (note the new design)
Both left & Right shafts were rebuilt, spring / thrust washers tappett adjusters as required, all clips were replaced, to be on the safe side
The spring retainer was badly damaged & had to be replaced. 2 meters of Soft 6mm was carefully fed into the cylinder, and compressed up against the valves by turning the bottom pulley. A tool was made with a drill and angle grinder. it fits on to the rocker shaft stud & acts as a lever to compress the valve spring, remove the colletts from the valve stem, and replace the spring retainer ... All with the cylinder head still on !!!
The job was completed with an oil change, with new strainer, complicted by tobar being too close to remove strainer. rear tobar mounts are removed and its lowered enough to change strainer
New lever Pegs
New lever Pegs