Thursday, 27 August 2009

What you will need to buy
For a single mini/dwarf rabbit I would recommend a hutch of at least 4ft long x 2ft wide x 18” high, or an indoor cage of at least 3ft long.  Larger accommodation will be required for bigger rabbits or 2 rabbits kept together.
If outside a large run should be attached to the hutch and placed either on paving slabs or with wire netting underneath to stop the rabbit burrowing out and foxes burrowing in.
Wood shavings and good quality hay.
Dry rabbit mix.
Pottery non-tip bowl and a water bottle.
Top opening pet carrying basket.

Rabbits and children
Children cannot be expected to solely look after a rabbit.  I will only sell a rabbit if the parents agree to accept full responsibility for its care.  Young children can quickly get bored of a new pet once the novelty has worn off, are you prepared to care for the rabbit if this happens?  A rabbit is not a cuddly toy and can bite and scratch if harassed.  See these links for more information Rabbits and Children and Rabbits and Easter

Hutches and Cages
So long as your rabbit gets lots of attention you can keep it outside all year round in a good quality weatherproof hutch with a separate draught-free dark area with access to an outside run.  Rabbits will tolerate cold very well but for your comfort and convenience I suggest keeping rabbits indoors during the the winter months (a shed or unused garage is ideal).  The hutch must be at least 6” off the ground and should be sited out of direct sunlight and draughts.  Make sure that padlocks or bolts are used for fastenings on both hutch and run to prevent access by foxes. Wire mesh used on hutches and runs should be of strong quality (not chicken wire).  Do not be concerned if your rabbit uses the sleeping area as his toilet as this behaviour is quite common.  Neutered rabbits can easily be trained to use a litter tray. 

Bedding
Use a deep layer of wood shavings throughout the hutch, with a good layer of hay on top. Litter trays can be filled either with a covering of shavings and hay or a wood-based cat litter.  Clean the soiled area daily, thoroughly cleaning out the whole hutch once a week.

Food
An adult Mini/Dwarf rabbit should need no more than 2-3oz of dry food a day.  All the food should be eaten each day, if any is left you are probably feeding too much.  Be consistent with the type of dry food given and stick to it.  I do not recommend giving a rabbit under 12 weeks old any fruit or vegetables as severe diarrhea may occur with fatal results. Start by offering tiny amounts of a variety of vegetables every other day and gradually build up the amounts over a period of weeks. Stop immediately if the rabbit consistently has a dirty bottom or runny droppings, often resolved by withdrawing the fresh food. Seek veterinary advice if this is a persistent problem. Never feed lettuce to a rabbit of any age. Rabbits should not be fed extras such as bread, toast, cake, sweets, biscuits, crisps etc. Refill the water bottle daily, and add large handfuls of fresh hay. It is essential for rabbits to have large quantities of fibre in their diet each day so ensure that your rabbits have access to fresh hay every day of the year. Examples of fresh food you can give your rabbit are: carrot, celery, cabbage, cucumber, spring greens, broccoli, brambles, Brussels sprouts, groundsel, mint, parsley, raspberry leaves, watercress. The following can be given in small quantities: apple, dandelions, melon, peach, pear, pineapple, strawberries, banana.

Handling
Rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time, patience and effort.  Even if well handled by the breeder you may still need to be patient when you first get your new rabbit home.  Many adult rabbits do not enjoy being handled, although some will tolerate it better than others.  This applies regardless of whether the rabbit is handled from a baby or not, and unfortunately the true personality of a rabbit is not fully apparent until about 6 months of age. With this in mind it is important to let your new pet settle in with as little handling as possible. Gradually build up his trust and confidence by talking quietly to him and gently stroking his head if he approaches you. When he has settled in, you can pick him up gently but firmly either by placing your hands around his middle or by holding the loose skin behind his ears with one hand whilst supporting his hind quarters with the other.

Company for your rabbit
Rabbits are social animals and it is preferred that rabbits are kept in pairs.  If a rabbit is to be kept indoors and it will get lots of human attention then one on its own should be fine.  If your rabbit is going to be living outside and will not be getting much attention then I would always recommend getting two rabbits.  It is preferable to get both rabbits as babies (at the same time) as it is much easier to bond baby rabbits than to bond adults.  A neutered adult may accept a baby more easily than another neutered adult.  Adult rabbits must both be neutered before attempting bonding otherwise fighting will occur.  I always recommend neutering pet rabbits (see below for more details).  Once rabbits are bonded do no separate them for any reason (even when going to the vets) as they may fight once reunited.

Matching an existing rabbit with a new companion can be done.  Please click on this link for information http://www.cottontails-rescue.org.uk/matchups.asp or contact me.  Click here for my contact details Home Page.

Guinea pigs should not be used as companions for rabbits.  Guinea pigs have different feeding needs from rabbits and adult rabbits can often harass guinea pigs causing them deep distress and sometimes injury.

Neutering
All pet rabbits should be neutered once they reach maturity at approx. 4-6months old.  Aside from preventing breeding, castration stops males spraying urine and decreases mounting behaviour, whilst spaying females prevents the development of uterine and associated cancers which are very common in female rabbits, as well as also deceasing aggression linked to the hormone cycle.  If you want to keep more than one rabbit together then they must all be neutered as un-neutered rabbits, whether male or female, will tend to fight . 

In Aberdeen the average cost to neuter a male rabbit is £50 and to spay a female is £65.  See this link for more information spay-neuter

Breeding
If you are interested in breeding from your rabbits please think very carefully first as there are thousands of unwanted rabbits in rescue homes all over the UK.  I would advise anyone interested in breeding pedigree rabbits to contact the British Rabbit Club first (see my links page). 

Vaccinations
Myxomatosis – This disease seems to be quite common in Aberdeenshire so it is really essential that your rabbit is vaccinated against it.  It is usually spread by biting insects such as fleas and midges.  This vaccine usually lasts about 10 months and most vets will recommend that you have your rabbit vaccinated every 6 months to be on the safe side.

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) – This disease is a highly contagious condition, easily spread, and there are often no symptoms to indicate that anything is wrong. This disease is inevitably fatal.  This vaccination lasts 12 months.

Vaccination costs vary considerably from one vet to another so I would suggest that you telephone around first.

Common Health Problems
***Mucoid Enteritis – this is one of the commonest killers of rabbits, especially those under 6 months of age. Isolated cases may be triggered by stress, such as moving to a new home, fighting with another rabbit, changes in diet etc., but there is also an infectious form that can kill high numbers within a herd. The onset of symptoms is sudden, and include some or all of the following: loss of appetite, few or no droppings, small misshapen droppings, sitting huddled in a corner or stretched out in obvious pain, bloated stomach, diarrhoea, jelly-like substance (mucus) being passed. This condition is extremely serious and the rabbit must be taken immediately to the vet. 60% of rabbits under 6 months of age affected with this illness die, adults having a better recovery rate with 30% fatalities.
***Overgrown front teeth – usually inherited from parents, but incorrect feeding can exasperate the situation. The teeth will either need to be trimmed every 3 weeks for the rest of the rabbit’s life, or be removed completely. This serious condition must be attended to urgently, otherwise the rabbit may starve to death.
***Overgrown back teeth – symptoms may include weight loss, poor appetite, dribbling, dirty bottom/soft droppings. This condition causes distress and pain and needs urgent attention. The tooth spurs will often repeatedly re-grow, resulting in frequent expensive trips to the vet. Dental disease cannot be cured, and if the rabbit is young it may be best to consider euthanasia to prevent future suffering.
***Red urine – If no other symptoms this is usually due to pigmentation of the urine from the food. Check that the water bottle is working properly, especially in the winter months when water may become frozen in the spout. If unsure, seek veterinary advice as sometimes red urine may indicate the presence of blood, possibly due to a bladder/uterine problem.
***Diarrhoea – often fatal, seek advice immediately. (also see Mucoid Enteritis above).
***Fly Strike – rabbits soiled with droppings or urine are at high risk from this condition – flies lay their eggs on any area of the rabbit that is wet or dirty (especially around the genital area) and the resulting maggots eat into its flesh with very distressing and often fatal consequences. This is particularly common in the summer months, so check your rabbit daily. A rabbit with maggots must be taken to the vet immediately.
***Dandruff and/or bare patches – usually caused by mites (Cheyletiella parasitivorax) resulting in skin irritation and unsightly appearance of the fur. Easily treated by a course of Ivomec injections or a spot-on treatment from your vet. Finish the course, otherwise the mites will return. Any other rabbits in the vicinity must be treated also.
***Lump or scab on the back of the neck – this is very common in rabbits that have been vaccinated recently. It usually heals on its own.
***Head swaying from side to side – very common in red eyed rabbits or rabbits with brown eyes that glow red in certain light. This is absolutely normal and often occurs when the rabbit is relaxed. If the head is tilted to one side, this is a different condition and veterinary advice should be sought urgently.