NCN 7 Perth to Inverness

Part 5, Dalnamein Lodge to Dalwhinnie

Maybe it was the hourly soaking, maybe it was the headwind maybe I had done too many miles to get here, or maybe it was all three, but what I did know was by this time I was at low ebb, tired with little food and no place to get out of the wind and rain. You cannot appreciate how desolate this part of NCN 7 can be until you experience it for yourself.

This section 24 km / 16 mile section of NCN 7 is, in my opinion the worst, constant climbing and the incessant traffic noise are not good company.

The cycle track joins the Trinafour road near Dalnacardoch Lodge, continue straight on up the hill. There is a confusing array of signs at the A9 junction; a NCN 7 arrow directs traffic onto the A9 and another onto the new route while a third can be seen on the other side of the A9 - the old route arrows are still in place trying to lure you onto the A9.

The new cycle path starts at the junction of the old A9 (now a private, road) and the A9. The tarred path goes off into some small trees with an unusual path side obstacle - television aerials. The path then climbs to the top of a cutting before descending to run alongside the A9 for a while. The path then turns away from the A9 onto the route of the old A9. You go through a gate and a narrow cattle grid. A palate tied across the entrance obstructs the entrance to the cattle grid.

The stretch of the old A9 finally runs out at the dam then you go onto another piece of cycle path. Shortly after crossing the first foot bridge you come to another gate and cattle grid, which is secured in a similar fashion.

What follows from here on, to the head of the Pass of Drunochter is one unrelenting uphill slog. At times like this the Sustrans route map is as useful as a chocolate fireguard. No detail when you need it: I would had loved to have seen anything thing that would confirm my position on this track.

Come out onto the estate road for Dalnaspidal Lodge and turn right onto the new section of access road. There is a lot of stones on the path washed down from the embankment. At the top of the hill, turn left and carry on down, go right and go behind the green house, the old house and the A9. The road at this point is a bit rough.

Another tied cattle grid. An omen - a burst inner tube hangs by the gate, like the carcase of a crow tied to a fence wire. A warning to cyclists who treasure their tyres to "gaw canny." the puncture fairy plays rough up here! The next section is very stony, but mercifully short.

At the next cattle grid, the farm gate is wide open, though the cattle grid is still blocked, and shortly thereafter if you look to your left you will see the river coming down the mountain to your left indicating the watershed, the head of the Pass is near the radio mast.

A final linking path climbs away from the old A9 to a blocked cattle grid, to run alongside the A9. Between here to the Highland boundary, and beyond there are large stones placed at the gates and bridges to restrict the width of the track, presumably to prevent farmers or railwaymen from using the cycle path.
At the first bridge after the county boundary, there is a little memorial plaque, "In memory of Michael (Mick) Greatbatch, died 8 August 1999, cycling Lands End to John o' Groats, always remembered." His death spurned the Scottish Office to build the path.

The strange thing about the old A9 in Perthshire there are no road signs or mile posts or anything from the old road bar the road itself and the white lines. In Highland, the old mile posts are still present, one with a very welcoming Dalwhinnie 4, Dalnaspidal 2 (home win for Dalwhinnie…)

Looking to your left the burn is now flowing away from you. You're are over the watershed and on the way down.

One thing that struck me (bad pun) was the "highland" nature of the road kill, normally it is squashed bunnies or hedgehogs by the roadside, but on the A9 it is deer, one stag resplendent in a mass of flies and maggots was a joy to be downwind of.

The path goes away to the left onto a section of the old A9, away to the peace and quiet, before turning left, joining the quiet A889 into Dalwhinnie.

The AA is on record as designating this road to be the most dangerous piece of road in Scotland... The real fun starts after Dalwhinnie towards Laggan.

There is not a lot in Dalwhinnie, the Ben Alder Lorry park was reputed to have made the best chips anywhere, but is now closed, custom is directed to the nearby hotel.

Continue on through the village and feel happy that you are over the hardest part of the NCN 7.

Continued in part 6.